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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 1,788
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My rear brakes have started making a grinding sound when I slow down and come to a stop. I dont know why, they arent all that old. I figured I would just throw on a cobra brake kit if theres not too much involved. Where can I find a kit to convert my GT rear brakes to the cobra? I know where to get the rotors and pads, but I cant find the bracket to move the stock caliper. Or do they use different calipers? I was planning on fixing it tomorrow, but I dont really want to throw on a new set of GT rotors and pads.
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2003 DSG GT 5-speed Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback..... My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
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http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...sion-kits.html
is that what yer looking for? or do you aim to put the cobra front brakes on the rear? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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you have to pull the axles, get a conversion FRPP kit which is 200 bucks, then get the brake kit.
Keep your stock stuff, the upgrade isnt worth it for the rear. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Administrator
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the rear is simply bling unless you do some hardcore road racing the cooling effect they have isnt worth it. And more then likly your pads are toast thus the noise, get new pads and call it a day.
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Dustin 2002 GT Mustang 5-Speed Drag Radials,Sprayed,Powershifted ![]() ![]() WOOO HOOOO! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,495
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Don't forget that when you replace the pads, to do the job right, get your rotors resurfaced or buy new ones.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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I agree with Dustin, just get new pads. I dont believe you need to get your pads resurfaced just because you replace your pads. Someone correct me if Im wrong.
However, one thing I do know is that youll have to push the piston in when getting new pads. For the rear, you need to use needle nose pliers and twist the piston while you push it in. Then you have to make sure the piston notches are lined up correctly. Im too lazy to explain it, so heres a post on modularfords I found a couple weeks ago, http://www.modularfords.com/forums/722257-post2.html And yes that is the correct way to line it up, Ive heard it from more then just that guy. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,495
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The rotors (not the pads) need to be resurfaced otherwise the brakes will squeak.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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You SHOULD have your rotors resurfaced everytime pads are replaced. If you just bring rotors yourself into a dealership, they should resurface them for pretty cheap, like 15 bucks.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Alright, thanks guys. In that case, ask Randy for some stock pads and bring your rotors somewhere to get resurfaced.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 1,788
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yes I know about resurfacing my rotors. If I were to go with some stock size rotors I want it to be at least a set of slotted new ones. I am looking to be different. I want to have the actual cobra rear setup just cause many people dont have them. Also Im looking at wheels/tires soon and I want to have something for show.
__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback..... My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 1,788
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geez, over 400$ just for the rear kit? Maybe ill have to wait. I wanna start putting all me serious cash into the new engine.
__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback..... My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,495
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From what I hear, slotted is just for looks and the only thing it will give you is a ton more of brake dust.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 7,014
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that's about the fact of the matter. Modern pads don't outgas so slotting does keep the pads clean and breaks up glazing but that's all. They're only marginally dustier than plain faced. I use plain faced Baer Eradispeeds. Best rotor I've had on a daily driver to date.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Administrator
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I would only resurface the rotor if its glazed or warped. Otherwise no need to spend the money on it.
__________________
Dustin 2002 GT Mustang 5-Speed Drag Radials,Sprayed,Powershifted ![]() ![]() WOOO HOOOO! |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Wowbagger hates me too!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 7,014
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for bling value steeda markets a 13" rear brake kit that looks really cool. It uses a bracket to relocate the caliper for a 13" rotor in the back. Makes pulling the axles a thing of the past. If you're going to bother, that's a helluva route to go.
If you upgrade the rear brakes make sure to choose the right pad. I like EBC green for cars with cobra front brakes and OEM pads for cars with stock GT/v6 front brakes. It maintains a better balance if you choose carefully. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 1,788
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I am going to put some nice pads on it and have the rotors turned for now. I will get the Baer 13 inch kit when I get some more money. I think its only $250.
__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback..... My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new |
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