Carbon Fiber Driveshaft

[stage2roush2002]

Anyone know where to find a Carbon Fiber driveshaft for a 2002 GT?

And my transmission would be a TR-3650, correct?

arent they only good for like, 1000 miles?

[3V2000GT]

Im not sure about where to find it, i saw it once but forgot, yes you have a 3650 and the driveshafts are the same from 96-04

[jjtgiants]

Check this out

http://www.stangpro.com/html/articles/driveshaft.htm

[3V2000GT]

wow thats interesting, good find

[jjtgiants]

Here is a thread on the Mach 1 registry that compares all 3 types of drive shafts....I have read other threads that claim 6 hp gain from the carbon fiber drive shaft. Not sure if it's worth $600-700, but maybe.

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...er+drive+shaft

[Weels1]

Originally Posted by jjtgiants

Here is a thread on the Mach 1 registry that compares all 3 types of drive shafts....I have read other threads that claim 6 hp gain from the carbon fiber drive shaft. Not sure if it's worth $600-700, but maybe.

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...er+drive+shaft

NOT SURE! Are you Nuckin Futs? If my math is correct that works out to $100.-$116.67 per HP at that rate your 300HP engine would cost $30,000.-$35,001. If we could buy our HP that way.:bash:

[Weels1]

You can find the Carbon Fiber Driveshafts at Hammacher-Schlemmer right next to the Seven Person Confrence Bicycle that goes for ONLY $18,995. LOL

[r3dn3ck]

spending 600 bucks on a drive shaft is LUDICROUS. You want 6hp for 600 bucks, pay someone to procure and install some headers for you.

A common aluminum driveshaft is more than sufficient and will yield similar gains in all aspects (as miniscule as they are). Being that proud of 6hp is bizarre and disturbing to me especially when you can have a brand new aluminum model for 1/3 the cost and get 70% of the weight benefit.

When I put my aluminum DS on I noticed exactly zero difference other than I got rid of the driveline vibration that was the reason for replacing the stock steelie in the first place. Dyno runs showed only nominal changes in power output, not enough to even speak about (<5hp/tq). I've swapped to aluminum on both cars and the only difference has been about 7lbs.

[Teal_Beast]

untill the price comes down . . .

not worth it

[stage2roush2002]

I have nothing else to spend the money on, because I just purchased heads, cams, internals, nem bumper, & in the procces of choosing twin turbos.

[Twin Turbo 330]

You could give some to me since you have so much extra.

[stage2roush2002]

Originally Posted by Twin Turbo 330

You could give some to me since you have so much extra.

No im running dry....these are my last purchases for a LONG time

[r3dn3ck]

how about a diff and axle upgrade, or a tranny upgrade to support all that twin turbo power? At least with those you'll be correcting the undersizing of components before they break. Or even some cobra brakes. It looks like you have stock GT binders in there so that'd be my highest priority mod if I were in your shoes.

[stage2roush2002]

Like what? I never looked into it...I got brakes on the way too.

[r3dn3ck]

if you're on a stock diff, then a 31 spline auburn or eaton with moser 31 spline axles is highly recommended to handle the grunt of twin turbos. I'd also be looking seriously at a 3.5" or 4" aluminum drive shaft and a set of torque box reinforcements.

those few things will keep you driving home where the stockers risk making you walk.

[stage2roush2002]

Where can I find these?

[Twin Turbo 330]

Originally Posted by stage2roush2002

No im running dry....these are my last purchases for a LONG time

It will be a sweet ride though.

I would definitely upgrade your rearend like r3dn3ck said though.

[stage2roush2002]

so one of theses? http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=M4841A+01

And what about a cistom aluminum driveshaft from PDST

[r3dn3ck]

Driveshaft you can get from whereever... the pricing is usually not too far off from one place to another. Figure on 250-350 bucks for a nice 4" balanced shaft. I'd get this one: http://www.mustangtuning.com/96gtand96coa.html

Your existing yoke is more than sufficient. There's no reason to replace it unless it comes with your new DS.

Rear end I would use: http://www.brothersperformance.com/c...roducts_id/461
and
http://www.brothersperformance.com/c...roducts_id/876

Where you get them from is your business but I'd call up MT and ask if they can or will get the parts for you. they don't list them on the site but that means little.

[stage2roush2002]

got those things on the way....What about a clutch? I mean the stock clutch cant hold more than 350hp. Whats a good clutch to go with? Anyone?

[r3dn3ck]

Call up my pals at apex and tell them you want one of their special dual friction kevlar units. They're custom made one at a time but they're the BEST I've ever seen and they hold massive HP without being hard to drive.

What are you doing about your fuel system?

[03gtmustang]

Ive seen so many Auburns and Eatons blow. Id go with a Detroit Truetrac and Moser 31 splines. Spec makes good clutches too.

[stage2roush2002]

I already have the SVT Focus Pump.

[r3dn3ck]

a focus pump is a good start but you'll need more than that to support twins at more than 8-10lbs of boost.

What static compression ratio are you aiming at? Have you decided on a boost level? Have you gotten upgraded fuel rails? All those things are part and parcel to big boosted hp.

I had considered recommending the true-trac but I've started seeing reports of the worm gears coming unglued. I've never heard of an eaton or auburn blowing outside of absurd use cases so if you would, give some details... I'm curious as hell.

[stage2roush2002]

The SVT pump is included in the twin turbo kit. Its what they recommend to use. Im only going to run them at 8lbs of boost for the 1st year.

this is the kit I want to run http://www.turbochargedpower.com/96-04%20Mustang.htm