95 Heater Core Replacement "How To"
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Since i could not find a how to on replacing the heater core on an SN95 i decided to make my own "How To".
First i stopped by an Auto shop and had the A/C drained. I know the owner and this cost me $0. :) Attachment 23860 |
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Next i removed both of the front seats so i can easily remove the dash. On my 95 it was 4-15mm bolts each seat. Also had to disconnect the power cord from each seat.
Attachment 23858 Attachment 23859 30 min of work so far. I found $0.60 under the seats.:) Before i put the seats back in i will do a complete cleaning of the carpet and interior. |
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Next thing i did was disconnect the battery.
Attachment 23855 Removed the boot around the shifter. This just pulls out. Remember to disconnet the accessory plug and remove shift knob. Attachment 23856 Attachment 23857 Maybe 5 mins for these steps. |
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Open center console and remove the 2 rubber stops. Unscrew the 2 screws and remove the inside section.
Attachment 23851 Remove the center console by removing 4 - 7mm bolts and disconnecting the plugs. 2 are in the center console and 2 are up where the shifter is. You will have to disconnect the electrical plug and the accessory plug. Attachment 23852 Attachment 23853 Here is it removed Attachment 23854 Found $0.98 under the middle console along with a lot of trash. I am glad i am doing this just to get it clean. Maybe 25 mins of work. |
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Little more progess today...
Removed the radio... Attachment 23848 To remove the bezel around the radio you must take out this 7mm bolt. Attachment 23849 Then it just pops out... Attachment 23850 This took me about 30 min because i did not know how to remove the radio. But now that i know how it comes out it would have taken me 10 mins. |
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Next removed the AC/Heat contols. 4 - 7mm bolts
Attachment 23845 Disconnect all plugs Attachment 23846 Attachment 23847 Takes about 10 min. |
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Next i moved on to the drivers side...
Remove 2 - 8mm bolts. Then the plastic piece pops off. Attachment 23840 Attachment 23841 Then removed the metal plate. It has 2 - 8mm bolts. Attachment 23842 Attachment 23843 Attachment 23844 |
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I next popped off the defroster vent...
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I popped off the door sill molding.
Attachment 23835 Also the kick panel molding... Attachment 23836 Attachment 23837 And pulled back the carpet to see the damage. There is a push pin holding the carpet to the ceter console. Carpet was still real wet. I put a fan in there to try and dry some of that up. Attachment 23838 |
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So i began to take the steering column out. I heard you can leave it in but it makes the dash even more akward when taking it out. So i removed the plastic around the ignition.
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Locked the steering wheel in place and disconnected it from the steering shaft.
Attachment 23826 Remove metal brace under column. 2 - 7mm bolts Attachment 23827 Then disconnected all plugs associated with the steering column. then removed the four 13mm nuts holding the column in place. Attachment 23828 Attachment 23829 Attachment 23830 Attachment 23831 Attachment 23832 |
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Removed the door sill molding and kick panel
Attachment 23814 Attachment 23815 Unbolt the hood release handle. You need to do this so you can disconnect the plugs. 10mm bolt. Attachment 23816 Disconnect the plugs found in both kick panels label any plugs that look similar. The dash is held in place by the following bolts. Starting on the drivers side. 3 gold 7mm bolts Attachment 23817 15mm bolt located near drivers door. Attachment 23818 This 7mm bolt is right above the previous bolt but you have to access it from under the dash. Attachment 23819 7mm bolt Attachment 23820 7mm bolt Attachment 23821 7mm bolt Attachment 23822 7mm bolt near passenger door Attachment 23823 7mm bolt accessed through glove box. Squeeze the sides of the glove box and it should pop down. Attachment 23824 3 gold 7mm bolts Attachment 23825 |
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Gently pull on the dash and it should come out easy. Disconnect any remaining plugs.
Attachment 23806 Attachment 23807 Attachment 23808 Remove retainer Clip on A/C Hose Attachment 23809 Attachment 23810 I had these tools already to disconnect the A/C hoses. Attachment 23811 They are CRAP. So i ended up back at the part store and got these. Attachment 23812 So after a few hours i finally got them disconnected. Attachment 23813 That is all for today. I would like to kick Ford engineers in the butt for placing all that in such a cramped messed up way. I could barely get my hands in there. I had to disconnect some of the cables surrounding just to make space. |
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Take these 3 bolts off from the inside....
Attachment 23800 Attachment 23801 Attachment 23802 Losen this bolt so you can slide the canister out of the way to get to the next bolt. Attachment 23803 Also moved this out of the way for access... Attachment 23804 Now take this Nut off... Attachment 23805 |
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Now gently pull out the big black box...
Attachment 23795 Attachment 23796 Undo the 4 bolts and replace heater core.... Attachment 23797 Here is the new core in place.... Attachment 23798 Ready to go back in.......... Attachment 23799 |
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Installed the unit back into the car.... This was fairly easy.
Attachment 23790 Underside still slightly damp... Attachment 23791 So i used this... Attachment 23792 Now FORD says (tsb) to Solder a ground wire to the new heater core to prevent the aluminum from corroding (dissimilar metals). So why didn't they do that already? Because they are dumb. I do not know how to solder alumium so this is my solution. I went to home depot and got a ground rod clamp and some new bolts but 5/8" length. Attachment 23793 Attachment 23794 Did not over tighten so as to crush the tubing. There is about 1 tread showing on the otherside of the clamp. Used some thread lock to prevent backing out. I need to find some wire that will be good for grounding. |
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For Roush intake owners the heater core hoses are special to the kit. I found that if you buy a stock heater core hose it can be modified to closely match the one that came in the kit.
Attachment 23787 I only replaced this one hose because the other one looked in real good shape. Also in doing my reaserch about replacement cores i kept hearing stories about the pressure blowing out the aluminum cores. Some say that is on the fox bodies some say it happens on the 94+ as well. Who is right i don't know. But the fix is a pressure reducer that fits inside the hose. Attachment 23788 Attachment 23789 The new water pump i got is suppose to flow more so I installed it on mine just incase. |
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This is what i finished up today. I have to figuer out where one hose goes and then i can finish up the outsdie quickly.
Attachment 23782 Finished up on the outside. Now on to the inside tommorrow. Attachment 23783 Attachment 23784 Started back on the inside. Got the dash in by myself. Really was not that hard to put it back in. I will say it would be easier if you got someone to help on this step. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.:D Attachment 23785 Attachment 23786 |
Awesome write up, everyone say this little prayer with me...
Please God, do not make my heater core go out on me, I don't want to take out my dash. I had a '71 Chevelle that I had to replace once, small block so lots of room and it was still a giant pain in the butt. However, I was able to do it with the dash still in the car. |
nice wright up. i see your car looks nice and clean.
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I hope to have i close to being finished this weekend. I am taking my time it has been 2 weeks so far. I find this is good to do if you can go 2 weeks without a car. I think i could do it in 2 lonnnnng days if i reallly needed to. For me this was better than spending $1400 i was quoted on for someone else to do it.
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ill be doing my heater core in a few weeks... prolly right in the dead of winter. its was by passed when i bought the car, and im ok with it, but the ladies seem to like cars with heat...
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