Burning oil, need ideas from where.

Iceman12 · 03-28-2007, 09:28 AM

Hey guys, this question is for my Dad. He bought a 88 GT auto just before winter. Car has 160K on it, it has catted MAC H-pipe, flows, BBK intake tubeing, subframe connectors, 3.73's, and the trans feels like it has a shift kit. Also the car has 4 wheel disc brakes, look like they are off a sn-95 GT. Also engine has been converted to mass air useing what we believe to be 94/95 5.0 computer/ sensors. All of this was on the car when he got it. Only thing we have done is adjust (fix) the timeing, (was at something like 4 degrees before), and put a ram air hood on it, which my father made functional.

Car runs smooth, sounds great, pulls pretty hard, but goes though oil like its going out of style. Smokes form tail pipes when you rev it up in park, but not when the car starts, or while the car is movien. At least not enough you can see. Also when reved hard it spits out a lil black water, but we figured that is just because it dosen't get started that much.

Now we know it has plenty of miles on the car, we don't know if the whole engine ws swaped out of a sn-95 or just adapted by one, there is evidence that the engine was out of the car before, and there is a line lock still installed but the wires were cut to it. I believe the car was once someones track car that got put back together from a couple different cars and sold.

Ok, so we figure we need to rebuild the motor, but until then we were wondering if any of you had an idea of where the oil is comming from, (rings, valves, etc) so maybe we could get it to stop burning oil, (or at least slow down and quite smokeing) until then. He is too busy building a new garage right now, and I have my stang and a Falcon of my own I'm working on.

BTW, father has any mechanical ability you can think of except for dealing with fuel injection, and I've been taking automotive classes, so no suggestion/info is to technical. Thanks for any help you can provide.

ClemsonStang · 03-28-2007, 01:20 PM

the engine will wear as a whole, so good chance its leaking oil everywhere.

a long block from a 94/95 car will work just fine.

you have many differant opinions, just flip through a summit catalog.

atx-stang · 03-28-2007, 06:17 PM

you really wont be able to tell what is causing it to burn oil. Just get a whole new long or short block in it.

bossnutt · 03-28-2007, 06:48 PM

The spitting of the black water is usually a head gasket. The smoking depending on the color of the smoke could be a number of things.

atx-stang · 03-28-2007, 06:51 PM

yea or white smoke. Another way to tell is if you pull out your dip stick and it has a milky color to it with your oil.

Iceman12 · 03-28-2007, 08:54 PM

First off, thank you for the replies. Money is an issue here so no long/short blocks in the near future. Dipstick still shows black oil last I looked, (about 2 weeks ago, Dad's been out of town), and only spits a lil water when u are revving it pretty hard, so that isn't a major concern right now. I guess my Dad will just have to deal with it until he can put some money in the car. Like I said it runs very strong, so he still loves it. In fact he drove it to work today so he could wash it while I worked.

Well, again, thanks.

97Gt · 04-01-2007, 07:15 PM

what weight oil are you using? For a 5.0 you use a 10w40 if you use thinner or a cheaper brand oil it could caus the problem you are having.

WaterDR · 04-01-2007, 07:54 PM

I was wondering that too.

BTW, the car may feel strong, but it most likely is not making full power especially if you are loosing oil at the rings as you would not be making full compression.

For starters, I would do a comp check. They are free if you can do it yourself. If the compression checks out good, you may not be dealing with too huge of a problem.....at least you could rule out rings and perhaps a full re-build.

While I can appreciate money being tight, running a sick motor too long could be the difference between saving it or ruining it.

Iceman12 · 04-02-2007, 10:48 AM

Good advice, I'm gunna be at my Dad's house later today, I'll suggest a compression test and find out what oil he's been useing. Although I fairly sure he was useing some fairly old 15w40 he had a bunch of for an old truck he used to have. I'm pretty sure he will have an compression test kit since he did own a 4X4 shop back in the late 70's. He seems to have every tool possible.....as long as the tool has nothing to do with a computer. Yet the man spends all evening on his computer.

Oh well. Another person (friend/mechanic) suggested that he change the O2 sensors out on the car. This was because my father now describes the smokeing as intermitant when he gets on it, so he thinks it might be carbon, but I've never seen carbon that wasn't black, and the smoke I see when you rev it up is white. O well, you all gave us some great places to start, I'll post again after we try the compression test.

03-28-2007, 09:28 AM	#1 (permalink)
Iceman12 Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Just outside our nations capital, on the VA side. Posts: 51	Burning oil, need ideas from where. Hey guys, this question is for my Dad. He bought a 88 GT auto just before winter. Car has 160K on it, it has catted MAC H-pipe, flows, BBK intake tubeing, subframe connectors, 3.73's, and the trans feels like it has a shift kit. Also the car has 4 wheel disc brakes, look like they are off a sn-95 GT. Also engine has been converted to mass air useing what we believe to be 94/95 5.0 computer/ sensors. All of this was on the car when he got it. Only thing we have done is adjust (fix) the timeing, (was at something like 4 degrees before), and put a ram air hood on it, which my father made functional. Car runs smooth, sounds great, pulls pretty hard, but goes though oil like its going out of style. Smokes form tail pipes when you rev it up in park, but not when the car starts, or while the car is movien. At least not enough you can see. Also when reved hard it spits out a lil black water, but we figured that is just because it dosen't get started that much. Now we know it has plenty of miles on the car, we don't know if the whole engine ws swaped out of a sn-95 or just adapted by one, there is evidence that the engine was out of the car before, and there is a line lock still installed but the wires were cut to it. I believe the car was once someones track car that got put back together from a couple different cars and sold. Ok, so we figure we need to rebuild the motor, but until then we were wondering if any of you had an idea of where the oil is comming from, (rings, valves, etc) so maybe we could get it to stop burning oil, (or at least slow down and quite smokeing) until then. He is too busy building a new garage right now, and I have my stang and a Falcon of my own I'm working on. BTW, father has any mechanical ability you can think of except for dealing with fuel injection, and I've been taking automotive classes, so no suggestion/info is to technical. Thanks for any help you can provide. __________________ 1997 Mustang Cobra Crystal White Mods - 3.73 gears, MGW short shifter, slotted rotors and HP pads on all 4 corners, Eibach Pro-kit, Mac O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster catback 40 series, UPR Powertube, T-56, Zoom Stage 4 Kevlar clutch, full adjustable clutch cable set-up, Alum driveshaft, Rims + Tires Full-length MM subframe connectors waiting for install.

03-28-2007, 01:20 PM	#2 (permalink)
ClemsonStang Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 378	the engine will wear as a whole, so good chance its leaking oil everywhere. a long block from a 94/95 car will work just fine. you have many differant opinions, just flip through a summit catalog. __________________

03-28-2007, 06:48 PM	#4 (permalink)
bossnutt Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Dallas Center, Iowa Posts: 93	The spitting of the black water is usually a head gasket. The smoking depending on the color of the smoke could be a number of things. __________________ 1985 Mustang GT 1988 Mustang GT (B/F's)

03-28-2007, 08:54 PM	#6 (permalink)
Iceman12 Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Just outside our nations capital, on the VA side. Posts: 51	First off, thank you for the replies. Money is an issue here so no long/short blocks in the near future. Dipstick still shows black oil last I looked, (about 2 weeks ago, Dad's been out of town), and only spits a lil water when u are revving it pretty hard, so that isn't a major concern right now. I guess my Dad will just have to deal with it until he can put some money in the car. Like I said it runs very strong, so he still loves it. In fact he drove it to work today so he could wash it while I worked. Well, again, thanks. __________________ 1997 Mustang Cobra Crystal White Mods - 3.73 gears, MGW short shifter, slotted rotors and HP pads on all 4 corners, Eibach Pro-kit, Mac O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster catback 40 series, UPR Powertube, T-56, Zoom Stage 4 Kevlar clutch, full adjustable clutch cable set-up, Alum driveshaft, Rims + Tires Full-length MM subframe connectors waiting for install.

04-01-2007, 07:15 PM	#7 (permalink)
97Gt Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Charleston SC Posts: 68	what weight oil are you using? For a 5.0 you use a 10w40 if you use thinner or a cheaper brand oil it could caus the problem you are having. __________________ Got rid of the 97 and went with a 89 5.0 http://www.bpelowcountry.com/

03-28-2007, 06:17 PM	#3 (permalink)
atx-stang Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 13	you really wont be able to tell what is causing it to burn oil. Just get a whole new long or short block in it.

03-28-2007, 06:51 PM	#5 (permalink)
atx-stang Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 13	yea or white smoke. Another way to tell is if you pull out your dip stick and it has a milky color to it with your oil.

04-01-2007, 07:54 PM	#8 (permalink)
WaterDR Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,370	I was wondering that too. BTW, the car may feel strong, but it most likely is not making full power especially if you are loosing oil at the rings as you would not be making full compression. For starters, I would do a comp check. They are free if you can do it yourself. If the compression checks out good, you may not be dealing with too huge of a problem.....at least you could rule out rings and perhaps a full re-build. While I can appreciate money being tight, running a sick motor too long could be the difference between saving it or ruining it. __________________ Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email

04-02-2007, 10:48 AM	#9 (permalink)
Iceman12 Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Just outside our nations capital, on the VA side. Posts: 51	Good advice, I'm gunna be at my Dad's house later today, I'll suggest a compression test and find out what oil he's been useing. Although I fairly sure he was useing some fairly old 15w40 he had a bunch of for an old truck he used to have. I'm pretty sure he will have an compression test kit since he did own a 4X4 shop back in the late 70's. He seems to have every tool possible.....as long as the tool has nothing to do with a computer. Yet the man spends all evening on his computer. Oh well. Another person (friend/mechanic) suggested that he change the O2 sensors out on the car. This was because my father now describes the smokeing as intermitant when he gets on it, so he thinks it might be carbon, but I've never seen carbon that wasn't black, and the smoke I see when you rev it up is white. O well, you all gave us some great places to start, I'll post again after we try the compression test. __________________ 1997 Mustang Cobra Crystal White Mods - 3.73 gears, MGW short shifter, slotted rotors and HP pads on all 4 corners, Eibach Pro-kit, Mac O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster catback 40 series, UPR Powertube, T-56, Zoom Stage 4 Kevlar clutch, full adjustable clutch cable set-up, Alum driveshaft, Rims + Tires Full-length MM subframe connectors waiting for install.

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