I'm having one hell of a time trying to get these front control arm bushings out. I tried drilling out the rubber that didn't work well. I have a little propane torch that just aint cutting it. And my only vice big enough to maybe press them out is a SOB to work with because I don't have it bolted to a workbench, plus the control arm/spindle set up is a SOB too.

Anyone got some good tips? I called a local shop and they want $45 per side to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. I hate spending money for something like this, but ****, I don't know I am able to get these fuggers out.

In addition to these I am installing bumpsteer kit, hoodpins, and HIDs this week.

 

Dude, i tried this while doing lowering springs(godawful directions) and i had to go to autozone to get a tool to pull it off. The tool didnt work, i never got them off. Pay them to do it, i bent 2 prybars on that ******* thing.

 

Well, Ive gotten one out. I just keep giving it the business. Between the drill, Mapp gas, two heat guns, a BFH, a deep well socket and a 6" C-clamp, I got it out. So at least I know not that it's possible and that I won't have to pay about $100 dollars. Three to go.

 

Yeah, you need to drill the **** out of them. Make sure to throw a wire brush on the drill to clean out all of the old rubber or else the new bushings wont slide in. I found the hard way

 

Ok, I got all four old bushings out. The answer is: Burn it with fire! Best method that worked for me was to heat them up with Mapp gas, set them on fire, and let the heat gun blow on them for a long *** time till the **** burnt up like charcoal, let it cool, clean it out with wire brush. I got all but the last tone clean of rubber. It was getting dark. The smaller side bushing feel like a cake to press in. I tried to push in the larger side, I can fortell that it's going to be a hoe and a half in the morning.

 

Yea i imagine thats gunna be a bitch and a half to do tommorow, but why in gods name are those things in THAT ******* tight?! Also did the fire leave any scorring?

 

They're that tight because they're bonded to the shells. That's why machine shops will replace them but also by pressing them out in their shells. I myself did the same. Combo of drilling, fire, and a hammer w/ a BMFSD. However, if you have Hydro bushings, remember to pry the inner shell off (you'll see the lip on the larger bushing).

 

Whoa, what's this you say? I have the hydro bushings, but I didn't know I need to pry out any metal. On the larger side, when I drilled into one, liquid came out (didn't notice it on the other bushings), and these large ones just so happen to be the ones that look like they will not fit into the old shells. So your saying even though that I just have new bushings without new shells, I still need to pry out an old inner shell? I actually hope that's what your saying becuause then it would be easier to press in the new larger bushing.

 

I took those inner shells out and got the bushing in with minimal problems.

 

Drove the car today after doing a quick alignment, big difference. The thing turns so sharp it's almost dangerous. I swear if I jerk the wheel like I used to, or like you could in a stock mustang, this thing would be in the ditch from racting so fast. The bumpsteer kit helped cure some steering wheel wobble and jerkyness that I have been experiencing more and more of as the car got lower and lower. Overall I am very happy with the results. It was a lot of work, but about even with the rewards.

 

Yeah, I spent a few hours trying to install mine, cursing at Ford for putting left over non-hydro arms in, until I decided to pry on the flange. Shell came out, bushing fit, and I cursed some more for not figuring this out earlier.

 

So you really think that they bumpsteer kit helped huh? Hmm... I've been fighting with myself for the last couple of weeks about going ahead and doing it or not.

I've got: Cobra A-Arms, poly bushings, X2 Ball Joints and MM End-Links waiting to go in. Should I bite the bullet and do the bump-steer while I'm at it?

Also, what front sway bar are you using? I just picked up a new Steeda rear the other day.

 

For me, the Bumpsteer kit helped a ton. I've always heard that they don't make a big difference and that you need to have the equipment to measure and set them up correctly, but I put them on, got the angles of the Tie rod and the control arm as close to each other as possible, and it made a big difference. I was having problems with the steering wheel shaking from side the side on flat smooth roads, shaking violently on bumps. All cured with after the bumpsteer kit. I recomend it for a lowered car that has significant tie rod angle changes. I really didn't think it was going to make a big difference but I got it for a good deal from a member here.

I'm running the stock sway bars but with poly mount bushings and shorter poly endlinks.