Rear Suspension is DONE finally.....
 

For now, at least.

Finally got the rear suspension completely finished this weekend, and I must say, it's been one of the most rewarding mods I've done to the car. The car drives better, handles better, and is much more fun to drive than any Mustang I've owned before. Now it's time to start on the front, and make this thing a BEAST!!!!

Here's a quick rundown on everything in the rear:

Wild Rides Battle Box Repair Kit
HPM Megabite Sr. Lower control arms with anti-squat brackets
UPR PRO upper control arms with Heim joints
New rubber upper control arm bushings on the axle side
Vogtland Springs
Bilstein Shocks
Maximum Motorsports Panhard Bar
27mm solid rear swaybar

Everything's installed, and the pinion angle is set to -2 degrees, and life is good.

I want pictures. :D
How do you choose on what parts you want? and what's the pinion angle? LOL

i hope u got ur battle boxes welded in lol.

What would be the point of having them put on the car and not welded in? :confused:

You'll find that there's some bind in the control arms with the PHB in place. Watch for snap oversteer. It'll bite ya.

later on are you planning on a torque arm? From my experience, if the PHB and arms were 100% better TA makes it 1000% better. Eliminates bind completely and frees up the rear to really articulate. I'd recommend it.

That PHB is sweet though. Makes all the difference all by itself.

I am planning on adding the torque arm in the future, sometime later this year.

To be honest with you, I've read all about snap oversteer with aftermarket control arms with the PHB, and I have to say that I can understand that if you put in poly bushings in the uppers, I get that. That's why MM recommends FRPP uppers with theirs because of the soft rubber bushings that allow twist.

I have rubber in the diff side, and heim joints on the chassis side. Noone I've talked to, even MM has, or can tell me that the rubber bushings allow more twist than heim joints, and why I should swap them out. It's impossible as far as I'm concerned, or until someone can convince me that rubber allows more twist than a heim joint, I'm keeping them........ lol

While I understand the torque arm frees it up completely, I see no reason for me to swap back to factory upper control arms.
Here's a link to my upper control arms:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...trol-arms.html

swap back? hell no, perish the thought. just be aware that it's a lot easier to experience than it was before. Just requires you to be a more attentive driver. It's not bad outside a road course or an excessively tight onramp.

Looks like you've got it planned though. Rock on man.

I would get some crazy oversteer coming off turn 4 at memphis motorsports park. But that's about the only time I have noticed such a quick tendency to flip around on me. It's was an off-camber turn too. PHB is a such a needed mod for every mustang. The rear end of a stock mustang flops around more than that ladies ass at the all you can eat buffet.

Just found a 30mm front swaybar for $40!!!!!!

Knock one more thing off the To Buy list. As soon as I can get the new Caster/Camber plates, and the 4 point brace for the front, it's on!!!!!

are you gonna get a tubular K member aswell?

Eventually, I guess. I'm not overly concerned with getting one at this point. I feel there are other upgrades I need to do that will make a lot more difference for the price right now. The torque arm is definately ahead of the K-Member at this time.

the k-member would be the last part I'd do. Tubular a-arms, rear lower control arms and coil over conversion around, plus a tq arm and phb makes for one helluva seriously good handling car even with the stock steering shaft and k-member. As long as all the rest is properly selected (spring rates and shock/strut valving) it's only going to get better and better. The K sorta completes the package but it'll all work with a stock k-member.

Some new stuff arrived today:

Steeda X2 balljoints
The 30mm front swaybar is here
New swaybar bushings and endlinks

The only things missing to start on the front are the control arm bushings and the bumpsteer kit, and we'll be ready to get started.

Dude your Bullitt is gonna be rocking!

Thanks man, I've spent a lot of time, money, and research on how to get a great handling car, while keeping costs down, and so far, so good.

Does anyone have any experience with the Steeda Offset A-Arm bushings? I'm going to order A-Arm bushings next week, but if they are reliable enough to run daily with no problems, I'll order the offset bushings, so I can put as much caster as possible in the car.

I think imma just wait til you finish your whole suspension set up, then just get you to email me a full rundown and ill just copy you LMAO

I've heard good thing about upgrading the control arm bushings. Not the steeda offest bushings inparticular. Next time I have my A-arms off I'm going to put some poly bushings in. If you haven't done it already, you need to consider Maximum Motorsport's solid steering rack bushings. For $40, nothing will firm up the steering more. They allow for much more mid-corner stability and a lot less squirm at entry and exit.

I have poly bushings in the rack right now, but if the solids will make a difference, it's definately $40 I'm willing to spend.

I don't know how much difference they will make over poly, but it will be a difference. I know it made a huge difference going from stock to the solid bushings. It will help make the front feel as solid as the rear.