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wheels sucked in
:mad:
http://i28.imagethrust.com/i/49474/a.jpg Why are they sucked in the wheel wells? it pisses me off... any one have any solution w/o involving new wheels? |
New wheels is the best option.... basically you have the wrong offset. You could get spacers as well but its generally not reccomended.
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how thicka spacers?
right now the problem is this... if anyone can solve they get an A+ wheels = _________________ ASW- $... i'm a bit short on $ and attending college |
How far in are they sucked in? Post pics since you DID put this topic in the pictures section.
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All I see is a big red x.
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Eibach has a set of wheel spacers that will push your wheels out to the edges. I dont know how much they run, but they seem to work. I think Maximum Motorsports has some too.
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srry all...
i posted the pic on a free web host i used for my old website and the max bandwidth was exceded so the image came up as a big "x" |
Originally Posted by MTShambles
Eibach has a set of wheel spacers that will push your wheels out to the edges. I dont know how much they run, but they seem to work. I think Maximum Motorsports has some too.
wheel spacers = $200 Nice New wheels + tires = app $900 I'm better off buying wheels then spendin 200 bucks on aluminum circles... ya reckon? |
i have seen spacers for as low as $70
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Just get new wheels and tires. Dont put a bandaid on something that major imo.
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Do they tilt in? Or are they stright and just pulled in?
Might be a camber adjustment. My wheels always wear on the outside, if you have them tilted outward a little by a performance alignment shop then you should get more even wear on yer wheels. |
nah
they're all good... she's got good suspension... someone said bad wheel offset... the 70buckaroo spacers wont work cause they only space the wheel a max of 1/2 in... look at the pic... its obvious they need more space... thanks all |
I have the same problem, so I put my stock wheels back on and Im trying to sell them and buy new ones :)
I would have needed a 2 inch spacer (fuggin huuuuge), and then would have had to get ARP studs or something longer and stronger, IF i could find them. Plus in the back of my head I would have to worry about how sturdy that setup is while Im driving around(or doing burnouts or donuts or whatever, all in a days work)...so I said screw it. |
4 Attachment(s)
The ones that Maximum Motorsports sells are billet aluminum, are hub-centric and have OE-grade studs in them. They bolt on to your studs and then your wheel attaches to the studs on the spacer. Before I bought the 10.5's and 315's, I had the 40mm MM spacers on my wife's car. There were on the car for two years without incident. Never any vibration problems or anything else.
Here are before and after pictures of the car. |
Originally Posted by wythors
The ones that Maximum Motorsports sells are billet aluminum, are hub-centric and have OE-grade studs in them. They bolt on to your studs and then your wheel attaches to the studs on the spacer. Before I bought the 10.5's and 315's, I had the 40mm MM spacers on my wife's car. There were on the car for two years without incident. Never any vibration problems or anything else.
Here are before and after pictures of the car. |
I would put the stocks back on and sell those on ebay to some ricer kid. They look like wheels for an import. Throw down the extra cash and get some meat on that thing. You will be much happier instead of trying to make those skinnies stick out further.
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Make sure you get the spacers that have studs on them, not the ones that the wheels still bolt to the axle but have what is basically a washer between them. They won't leave many threads for the lugnuts to attach to
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