Stuff's here!
#31
Springs get here Friday so I'll get new pics of it sun or sat depending on the weather (probably raining)
Last edited by PColav6; 02-13-2008 at 07:58 AM.
#34
I don't know how far of a drop the Eibach Pro's give you, but just because you're car still tracks straight doesn't mean you shouldn't get CC plates. When you lower the front end and don't adjust your struts, you get negative camber that usually (depends on the magnitude of the drop) cannot be corrected using the stock plates. Driving around without fixing the problem causes pretty severe uneven tire wear.
#35
I don't know how far of a drop the Eibach Pro's give you, but just because you're car still tracks straight doesn't mean you shouldn't get CC plates. When you lower the front end and don't adjust your struts, you get negative camber that usually (depends on the magnitude of the drop) cannot be corrected using the stock plates. Driving around without fixing the problem causes pretty severe uneven tire wear.
#41
Yeah that's how most people do their wheels, lol
#44
I don't know how far of a drop the Eibach Pro's give you, but just because you're car still tracks straight doesn't mean you shouldn't get CC plates. When you lower the front end and don't adjust your struts, you get negative camber that usually (depends on the magnitude of the drop) cannot be corrected using the stock plates. Driving around without fixing the problem causes pretty severe uneven tire wear.
dude your car looks 100X's better congrats
#46
most get it for looks. i got the deep dish so i could run more tire in the back to help grip the road.
#50
pretty much it is for looks, especially in a stock V6, but if you get into autox racing or anything like that , more tire usually is better, you just have to be cautious of how much weight you are adding vs. how much tire you need for the HP/TQ levels you are at. You see alot of DD in the back/ Regular in the front in the online mustang communities, but not so much in person.
#51
pretty much it is for looks, especially in a stock V6, but if you get into autox racing or anything like that , more tire usually is better, you just have to be cautious of how much weight you are adding vs. how much tire you need for the HP/TQ levels you are at. You see alot of DD in the back/ Regular in the front in the online mustang communities, but not so much in person.
Yeah, they are for looks now, but since I'll be keeping this turd for a good while I'm planning on slapping on some FI later this year..lol
#52
really? are you going with the mysteed M112 kit, or something like vortech??
#55
Yes it would be, lol. I'm going to finish up the suspension first, then complete a few other things before I start saving up cash, detailing business should pick up quickly in the summer so that's what I'm banking on to be able to afford it.
The only other performance things I plan on doing before that are the J-mod, vmp xcal2, 8.8" rear (yay posi) shocks/struts/cc plates, and exhaust (just a Y pipe, once I get an S/C I'll get long tubes and have staight pipes going to the mufflers)
As far as having to get a bigger hood to clear the blower is concerned, that's what makes me kinda sad..I like the way the stock hoods look, but maybe a 95R hood would be ok, or a steeda cowl..I want to keep it as least-flashy as possible..it is a v6 afterall.
The only other performance things I plan on doing before that are the J-mod, vmp xcal2, 8.8" rear (yay posi) shocks/struts/cc plates, and exhaust (just a Y pipe, once I get an S/C I'll get long tubes and have staight pipes going to the mufflers)
As far as having to get a bigger hood to clear the blower is concerned, that's what makes me kinda sad..I like the way the stock hoods look, but maybe a 95R hood would be ok, or a steeda cowl..I want to keep it as least-flashy as possible..it is a v6 afterall.
#57
take your time and get the spring tool from a auto parts store just to be safe. i never used one but im not very smart.
the strut bolts are a bitch to break loose
and the rear axle can be a PITA to get back in alignment with your lower control arm. i had to kick mine into place while my buddy took his sweet *** time to put the bolt in.
the strut bolts are a bitch to break loose
and the rear axle can be a PITA to get back in alignment with your lower control arm. i had to kick mine into place while my buddy took his sweet *** time to put the bolt in.
#59
Springs are in, car looks badass and handles way better now. I'll get pics tomorrow when they've had some time to settle.
It wasn't that hard, took us about 5 min to do each rear, the fronts took a good while though.
And the camber doesnt look bad at all, but I'll see how it is in a few days.
It wasn't that hard, took us about 5 min to do each rear, the fronts took a good while though.
And the camber doesnt look bad at all, but I'll see how it is in a few days.