cracked intake manifold
 

so i cracked me intake manifold somehow, right where the thermostat goes. Now i need a new on, but id like to go PI. I see they have the PI intake manifold on AM, but it says it requires PI headers which i dont see on the site... anyone know of a good or better place to get both of these? and is there anything else i will need to consider?

I believe the PI intake manifold will bolt onto NPI heads. You must have the manifold with the plastic coolant crossover and need the aluminum cross over. It has nothing to do with headers, but more about working with the heads.

Like I said, I think, dont quote me on this, but I think that the PI manifold will work with the NPI heads. Might require a little fit and fab but it should work.

You can bolt a PI intake onto a non PI motor with some use of silicone to make sure it seals. Lots of non PI guys do it. Also the intake manifold has nothing to do with the headers.

pm'd

You will need adaptor plates. Sure it may bolt up but you will not benefit from it unless you fix the port transitions (on account of shape). Personally though, I would just buy a NPI intake w/ the AL crossover or just do a complete PI swap.

You might want to check with Ford as there was a lawsuit about this issue, you may get it repaired for free. I got my money back after I replaced it a while back.

the PI intake will work just fine with NPI heads. There is a small issue with the coolant passages not matching exactly. This is easily solved with the use of good quality sealant. Search hear and/or modular depot for specifics. I recommend you use PI intake gaskets. If you lay the PI intake gasket down on the NPI head you will easily see the small mismatch in the coolant port. Use RTV ultra blue to seal the gap, install the manifold, WAIT 24 HOURS for the RTV to set (CRITICAL) and you should ready to go. You will get a small performance increase above 3000rpm with the PI manifold and all else stock. You will aslo need to have the PI intake mani drilled and tapped for the second coolant temp sensor. The best place for this is the circular area just next to the thermostat housing. (I think its 3/8" NPT but I can't remember for sure. It is the same size as the one for the other temp sensor though). You'll probably have to reroute the coolant line that runs from the back of the water pump to the back of the engine. You can use a heater hose or buy the PI hard line which requires the use of a new water pump nipple. Sounds like a lot but it's not real hard.

Adapter plates are available but not necessary.

PS this is not BS. I have done this along with many others who have posted on MD. PI cams will give you another small bump. Not dyno tested but I guess PI intake and cams are worth 10-20 HP while a full PI swap should be about 30-40.

www.hiperformancesolutions.com makes inexpensive adapter plates that fix the whole sealing problem.

What year car do you have? That will tell us if you already have PI heads.

If not, I have some old Livernois plates laying in the garage....

thanks for all the support guys. I looked into that Lawsuit, looks apply like it won;t apply to me cuz my car is older than seven years now. Its a 96 Gt BTW, so as far as i know it does not have the PI components on it.

Since this is coming up though I'm thinking I'm just gonna do a full PI swap while im at it here in a month or two when i get the money. Seem like that would be a good baseline to start modding other stuff. thinkin maybe Longtubes after i do the PI swap and then some Bolt on's... would that be a good approach?

Yes that is a good way to go. Plus with the PI swap onto non PI motors you get more compression which also makes more power and then spray the shit out of it. Nitrous loves compression.

if yu're going to pull the motor for the PI swap you might as well do the long tubes while it out