ok so im really looking into doing the 5.4 swap into my o2 gt. i plain n building the motor b4 it goes in. were is a good place to get internals for a 5.4? the motor im lookign at is a 98. witch i believe is non pi right? will pi heads fit and so a gain in power liek on the older 4.6s? i dont know much about mustnags. i dont know how to work on cars though. thanks for the help

 

98 5.4 is non pi and pi heads will bolt right on. When it comes to picking a modular engine builder its like picking a catback people have lots of different opinions. All I will say is boss330 makes nice 5.4 motors, but so do places like livernois and others.

 

ok thanks. will putting the pi heads on it raise the compression like on the 4.6s

 

Yes as the non pi motors will have higher compression once you use PI heads on them which is great with a nice shot of nitrous.

 

I wouldn't worry about making the compression too high. The 5.4 has a pretty low CR with stock pistons. The Mustang Depot (http://stores.ebay.com/1AAA1-The-Mustang-Depot) has about the best prices on forged internals I've seen. Many of us are using their h-beams. I'd buy a built short block from MMR, Livernois, DSS or any of the other fine shops around the country. It's cheaper that way in the end.

Here's your intake solution: www.hiperformancesolutions.com/54.html

 

If your looking for "the fun of build" then do what r3dneck said. Check out Mustang Depot they have tons of parts at great prices and also the Ford parts are quit adequate for most N/A builds, so you could save some change there. If you do plan on making 400 +hp with a poweradder, GET AFTERMARKET RODS! The stock rods are the weakest link.

The HPS intake is the only solution and the smartest. Their are other ways of mounting an intake, but those are just plain stupid ways of doing things.......NOW.... that there is a 5.4l intake being made. Pick one of those up.

All in all you will be very happy with the results!

 

the guys i used for my 5.4 are northport machine in tuscaloosa alabama--paid approx a grand for complete longblock assembly balancing boring .20 over etc

made first pulls with the car today and made 274/316 rwhp/tq through an automatic trans

and i bought rods/pistons from MMR and i got a lightning crank that had been turned .20/.20 from advanced for $180 and it came with bearings

and yes go with the hps intake--it has a few draw backs being it's metal heat soak is an issue but with the adapter plates which are the only other option you may not get heatsoak but poor airflow around the plates is 1000x worse than a little heatsoak not to mention the hps intake fits under a stock hood, the plates require a cowl

 

that's about 5% more hp than I'd figured on you making. Good work. You're holding the keys to a 340bhp/400btq engine assuming 20% losses through the slushbox. For 335cid on shorty headers that's pretty impressive. Longtubes will pull you up quite a bit.

post some dyno graph action.

 

can't wait to get mine up on the dyno with the new intake and the longtube headers.

 

thanks a lot guys. im going to 5.4 route for sure. im prolly going to do soem head work and bolt the pi heads on it off of my 4.6. were can i get that intake and longtubes. i want to build it right the first time .

 

call bob at www.hiperformancesolutions.com for the intake. I'll have contact info for the headers I'm having made here pretty soon. Myillwillinc should also hopefully have some data on that.

Bob is also working the exhaust angle to get <company name secret> to make them which would help settle the prices down closer to <800 bucks instead of <outrageous amount of $> for the ones I'm working on. If all goes well the cheap set will be made using the template from my $5K set.

The company we're trying to work the exhaust through <again> is known to you all and is VERY popular and popularly prices their stuff so it should not be as spendy as I've been seeing.

 

to be quite honest i think there is actually more power to be had, i've found to vac problems last night, the pcv hose is sucking itself shut under wot, and the hose going from intake tube to the driver side valve cover was stretched and not reaching quite

and those numbers were after driving 60 miles and getting straight on the dyno and about 10 pulls later those are the numbers--the intake was HOT--i burned my hands on the intake changing the nitrous jets lol

 

ok were can i get the hps intake at and about how much do they cost. im looking to pick the 5.4 up this weekend. im most likely droping it in with no internal work done to it yet. will have have to get my ecm tuned for the 5.4 or will i be able to drive it just not beat on it yet.

 

www.hiperformancesolutions.com call up Bob and order. Simple as that.

You'll need a tune to get the most out of it but you should be able to drive it ok on the stock tune. You'll throw a CEL probably pretty close to immediately.

 

Just out of curiousity, what type of codes are thrown after the swap?

 

usually stuff like egr function if you disable it like I did, and rich or lean conditions. Stay out of the pedal and you won't have much to worry about.

 

Do most people disable the EGR because it's a PITA to make it work, or do they do it for performance reasons?

 

because it's annoying and it cleans up the engine compartment a little bit...one less thing to fiddle with and it only makes a 1-2mpg difference when cruising anyway

 

Ah. I assume disabling it is relatively simple? I remember hearing a reference to pipe crimping, but I'd prefer to do it the "proper" way (if there is one.)

 

I have a graphic I can send you when it's time. Easy as pie and then you have it disabled in the tune so no CEL's pop.