wondering if someone would know...
 

I've started putting money away for a HPS intake, VT stage 2 heads and stage 2 cams. first off, should I think about an upgraded rotating assembly? also with BBk LT's would a pro-chamber fit at all? and what kind of HP jump would i see with the intake, heads and cams. my engine is totally stock at this point. and i think Im going to keep it N/A as well.

It definately isn't necessary to need a rotating assembly, not until you break 425-450rwhp mark...as to hp gains, if you stay n/a you won't see no more than like mid 300's, considering you do all other bolt ons

I'm not shooting for any number really, mid 300's would be just fine. that would make a fast streetable car I would enjoy.

I havent seen much real world results from the HPS.

hps has seen 320rwhp from a car not too different than what you're building. Done right it can make that. Forging the bottom end is insurance against having to buy a new shortblock when you're not expecting it. You decide your ability to absorb a 4K dollar whack in the wallet if you want to start whippin on it.

Can you show me where the car made 320rwhp?

NA, the short block should be fine. The only reason something should happen to it is if its over reved, or has a terrible tune on it. Also, heads and cams can be installed wrong.

I recommend the Bullitt over the HPS. Even the RR is a good intake for a high reving NA car.

By the time you buy heads, cams, new intake, all the boltons to get 300-325whp you would be closeto the price of a MPH Mongoose kit that would get you 350whp with a base kit and a power pipe.

I've looked into the bullet intake, but the intake alone cost around $800 and that doesnt include the kit need for install which i remember being several hundred dollars. I want something made to go in with out any real fuss. And as far as just buying a power adder, that may be down the road, but i want a good foundation to put it on. we all want power, but i want to do it in a way that also provides longevitey to my engine as well. thats why im not to keen on keeping the plastic intake when i start making such mods. forged internals will go in before a blower or a turbo go on. I not looking to get it done on the cheap, i want to do it right and do it once.

btw, does anyone know it BBK LT's will fit a prochamber at all?

for the LT's you will have get a BBK mid pipe, but you can get mac LT's and the prochamber will fit

but the mac lt's are not on one flange plate the connects to the block. the are are individual which makes me not what them. but i like the sound a prochamber gives over a regular h-pipe.

http://hiperformancesolutions.com/index2.html
A PI swapped 96-98 car with stage 2 cams and HPS intake.

I meant real word data, not done by the company. We all know how much company data can be scewed.

well, numbers or not, I would rather have a metal intake over a plastic intake. plastic is great for mass production and the like but metal is a little more durable which is the overall goal. also, i look at it this way, this part is made in the USA. most likely with more care and thought going into it than we may realize and a hell of alot more than some ching chow cho part made in china. sure the web site isn't top quatily but that doesn't mean the product is not. I also looked into "319" grade aluminum which is pretty much the standard in automotive parts production. there is higher grades, but 319 seems to be the most generally accepted for most applications.

I've done a lot of work with HPS and they're really good. the intake shows gains where you'd want (area under the curve) and makes peak gains on motors that can take advantage of it.

Having one on hand and knowing a bit about airflow... I guarantee it'll flow better than stock right out of the box. With porting they're a serious contender. That said, you will need a good tuner to wring all the benefit and drivability out of it. At least it's not nearly as hokie as the PP intake. That's a direct rip off of the stocker.

The 320hp doesn't tell us what the car made at what RPM, or how much it peaked at before the swap either, so yes there is some mystery there. If I can get someone to test my intake against their stocker we should be able to get some nice real world results.