Turn off ABS?
Is there any way to temporarily disable ABS? It's really hurting me in the burnout box and I need to find a way to turn this crap off while I'm at the track. Can it be turned off with my X-cal?
Thanks for the help! :t: |
Not sure. Good perm solution to your burnout problem maybe think about getting a stop-roll kit. SLP Brake control kit. You activate it with a switch, so when your done burning it up. Its back on.
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Roll control has nothing to do w/ ABS. What it does is lock the front brakes so that you don't have to apply the rear brakes while doing a burn out.
However, I neglect to see how ABS would cause a problem. Do you mean traction control is kicking in, because that could always turned off w/ the switch or a programmer. Otherwise the easiest way to disable it would probably be to pull its power supply, so try to find the fuse for the ABS system and pull it. |
Yeah ABS should cause no problem at the strip at all.
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You sure you're not thinking of traction control? My old car didn't have abs, no problems with burnouts, my new car does, but if i turn the traction control off, I have no problems with burnouts. Hell, I don't even have to and I still do great burnouts :punk:
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 413733)
Yeah ABS should cause no problem at the strip at all.
Originally Posted by Dodobird223
(Post 413743)
You sure you're not thinking of traction control? My old car didn't have abs, no problems with burnouts, my new car does, but if i turn the traction control off, I have no problems with burnouts. Hell, I don't even have to and I still do great burnouts :punk:
I did a couple burnouts in the car, and all I did was turn off the TCS. |
Well, it's pretty simple really.. Initiate the burnout and the car lunges slightly, get on the brakes before the car moves too much and the ABS is kicking in on the front brakes letting the car lunge forward, then grabbing, lunge forward then grabbing.
And no, it's not TCS. That gets turned off pretty much anytime that I drive the car. To be perfectly honest I wish there was a way to just disable TCS all together. |
Originally Posted by WNRacing
(Post 413751)
To be perfectly honest I wish there was a way to just disable TCS all together.
you can do that with the SCT I believe. I dont know how tho...you may have to DL something onto the SCT. |
Oh ok your talking about that clicking noise that happens when your stomp the brakes hard.
Still the roll-control kit should do the trick. Its compatible with ABS, and TCS. My friend has it on his Cobra and he said that the roll-control was all he needed. If the clicking noise is what your talking about. |
Originally Posted by usaf88
(Post 413759)
Oh ok your talking about that clicking noise that happens when your stomp the brakes hard.
Still the roll-control kit should do the trick. Its compatible with ABS, and TCS. My friend has it on his Cobra and he said that the roll-control was all he needed. If the clicking noise is what your talking about. lol..the clicking noise is the ABS engaging. |
I know you can buy ABS disabling systems to permanently switch it on and off, but idk where you'd find it.
I kinda liked the fuse idea. |
Originally Posted by zigzagg321
(Post 413762)
lol..the clicking noise is the ABS engaging.
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Originally Posted by usaf88
(Post 413764)
I know that. That was my way of trying to understand what hes talking about. lol
ah...gotcha. |
The ABS and TCS can both be turned off by pulling the fuses. I don't know which fuses though.
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Originally Posted by 01FR500
(Post 413767)
The ABS and TCS can both be turned off by pulling the fuses. I don't know which fuses though.
http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242687 |
My biggest problem is this...
When pulling up to the burnout box, every single f'ing track around here lets water slide down to the side and my front tires run through it, so when I start my burnout the tires slip and the ABS starts kicking in releasing pressure on the brakes and lets the car start to move to one side or the other. I literally had my car totally sideways atleast 3 times last night because of the stupid shit. It doesn't matter how I press the brakes, whether it's with a soft foot, or all the way to the floor, the ABS is kicking in and releasing the front brakes. It really wouldn't be such a big deal, but I have to get these Hoosiers hot and sticky to get maximum grip out of them. This crap cost me a win last night and I'm going to get rid of the ABS on track nights from this point forward. |
Originally Posted by WNRacing
(Post 413810)
I found it on 3.8, you actually posted in the thread.. lol :p
http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242687 "...these 3: Interior fuses - #29 Engine bay fuses - H & N" |
Originally Posted by WNRacing
(Post 413810)
I found it on 3.8, you actually posted in the thread.. lol :p
http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242687 |
The back of your car go sides or the front? Cause its pretty normal for the rear to move when doing a burnout. But even if you have water on the fronts with the backs wet you should not move when revving it up and popping the clutch to heat the tires very much at all.
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easiest way to temporarily disable abs and tc is to reach under the back seat and disconnect either of the little dealies under there attached to the bulkhead. Those are the rear wheel speed sensors. If you disconnect either or both of them then your ABS and TC will NOT work. You can reconnect them and it'll work like stock.
Enjoy. |
So, I'm trying to decide which way to go here..
Pulling the fuses, or disconnecting the speed sensors are kind of temporary fixes. Should I just do that, or go all out and do the SLP roll control kit? |
I really don't think there is a problem with your car at all.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 413990)
I really don't think there is a problem with your car at all.
As soon as I start the burnout, the front brakes engage and disengage in rapid succession because the ABS is kicking in. They will not keep the car from moving, and kick the car sideways nearly 90*'s. |
Disconnect the sensor, there's no need to spend money on a bias valve kit if you can otherwise manage a burnout on your own by using systems the car already has. When you're done you can reconnect the sensor and have all your safety systems intact. I left mine off so I have real natural braking and burnout capability without the car trying to stop me for its own reasons. In general I don't recommend that as a long term status unless you're a very experienced driver with 15-20 years or so of driving under your belt but, it's a bitchin way of solving your problem with zero dollars invested.
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
(Post 414000)
Disconnect the sensor, there's no need to spend money on a bias valve kit if you can otherwise manage a burnout on your own by using systems the car already has. When you're done you can reconnect the sensor and have all your safety systems intact. I left mine off so I have real natural braking and burnout capability without the car trying to stop me for its own reasons. In general I don't recommend that as a long term status unless you're a very experienced driver with 15-20 years or so of driving under your belt but, it's a bitchin way of solving your problem with zero dollars invested.
So do you have to disconnect both speed sensors or just either one? Thanks buuuddy. :D |
either one or both. It only takes 1 to shut off the systems.
<pauly shore accent>no prooooooob-lim buuuuuuudy. The weeeee-sil has your back.</pauly shore accent> |
this is why i'm happy when i ordered my car i ordered it with every option except abs and leather
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Originally Posted by mustangV6_04
(Post 414057)
this is why i'm happy when i ordered my car i ordered it with every option except abs and leather
I'd much rather have ABS and just easily defeat it than to not have it at all. ABS can help in a panic stop situation. |
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