Is it possible for a tuner to "hide" signals going to ECU? (long)
 

Wasn't sure how to title this one. As some of you may know, I have been considering doing a 460 BB conversion. Thanks to a guy I've been talking to on Streetfire that did the conversion, I already know how easy is it to get a 460 and C6 trans in. Trans mount takes 15 mins to modify, and the engine mounts can be fabbed up pretty quickly (or bought online.) The problem is the electronic aspect of the swap. The car that I mentioned above does not need to pass emissions, so the owner is running a simple carb setup. However, mine does need to pass the emissions test. A lot of the stuff will match up fine, but there are some issues that need to be dealt with. Hence the reason for this post. From what I can tell, a 4.6 modular engine fires based off of a crank sensor, and it controls the injectors using a cam sensor. Fuel injected 460s use a distributor to fire (all the way up until Ford stopped using them in 97,) and a sensor at the base of the distributor to control the injectors. So could a shop delete the cam and crank signal in the computer so I could run the distributor setup, or would the ECU not be able to function without those signals? Sorry for the long post, but some of these things need to be worked out before I start messing around with sh*t. As always, TIA.

I really can't answer your question but you might get a better answer if you ask the question here
http://www.deltaforcetuningforums.com/
Thats the forum for the sniper tuners

Simple: just adapt it. Get a Mod timing kit (like Steeda or BBK) and use the Mod crank sensor. Hot Rod did this when they modified a 5.7 Hemi to use a Modular ignition system. As for the cam sensor, use the distributor. That's how the old pushrods did it. In fact, doing it this way, you can use the stock ignition w/ COP instead of a distributor. You just need a way to mount the COPs (or use the older EDIS coil packs). If using the distributor's cam sensor doesn't work, and if you use the stock ignition, modify the distributor by attaching the 4.6 cam gear (the one used for sensing) to where the rotor goes and then find a place to mount the actual sensor. Just make sure you index everything properly. Or you can always use a 7.5L comp and harness, just make sure it's not a speed density system. Just remember that a C6 doesn't have OD so choose your final drive wisely if you plan on going on the highway.

To pass emissions doesn't the motor that is swapped in have to be the same year or newer as the car its being swapped into?

So you're saying that your method would be easier than what I mentioned? It seems like it would take a ton of work to figure out the timing, etc. And FWIW, P71's come with either a 3.27 or 3.55 RAR.

And Spike, the engine doesn't really matter. What matters is that the ECU is the correct one for that year/car, which is why I have to keep the stock computer. If I could just throw in a complete EFI 460 with computer and harness, that would probably be much easier.

What work? You buy the timing kit, attach it to the balancer, and then find a way to mount the sensor. The only bit of work is finding how to mount the sensor. For cam timing, if you can't use the one in the dizzy (which I can't see why not), then modify the dizzy into one. Since you have Mod parts around, it's easy to just weld the gear onto the dizzy and find a place to mount the sensor. However, you could also modify the rotor by replacing the Brass w/ a thick piece of steel and modifying the cap to house the cam sensor. The problem is you can't block those signals since the car won't run w/o them. Try disconnecting the crank sensor and tell me if it starts up. The crank signal should be easy to do, since the Mod timing kit is sort of universal and the dizzy already has a cam sensor. If not, you turn it into one.

Do you have a link to one of timing kits you are mentioning? I'd like to take a look at one.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/st4tiad9gt.html

Wouldnt exactly be bolt-on for you but could be adapted.

Would you happen to know the diameter of a 4.6 crankshaft end? I wonder if that would be able to slide right onto the 460's crank..

That I do no not know but you can always get that turned down to Modular size if need be. Just I don't know if that can be done since I don't know how the 385 series is balance (internal or Detroit).

Depends on year/rotating assembly. I believe the stroker kit I plan on buying is internally balanced. And FWIW, the guys on the 460 forum told me that a 460 crankshaft has an OD of 1.375". Maybe someone else on the 4.6 forum will know if I post it there.

A few more questions...
 

Do you guys think this thing will run before it is tuned? I know a 5.4 runs ok on a stock 4.6 tune, but that's only an additional .8L. I'll be adding an extra 4 liters over the stock engine. Also, can someone tell me the number of wires coming off of the 4.6's cam sensor? It looks like the one on the 460 has either 3 or 4 wires (hard to tell from eBay pics.) And one last thing.. Any suggestions concerning the firing order? It's different between the two engines.. TIA

I'd probably wouldn't run it until you get a preliminary tune. If not, go carb until you get it tuned. As for the firing order, just plug the wires for the coils or plug accordingly. Nobody says you can't plug the #2 wire in #5, just usually #2 goes w/ it since that's the firing order (these numbers are examples).