I know both are better than stock but what is better?
I was told that slotted make your pads wear out faster.
or are the regular style brembos good?
Thanks

 

either the drilled or the slotted will NOT make your pads wear out faster. as far as which one is better i would have to go with drilled due to more escape passages for heat and gases.

 

I was thinking drilled myself but what about both slotted and drilled?

 

don't go drilled, you're just removing mass for the pad to grab and will go through pads quicker. drilled is just for the fancy looks

 

OK explain then?
Drilled i know can release more gas and heat faster. And Im getting mixed answers from people. You say that drilled wears your pads faster and 94IVGT says that they dont.

And I heard that slotted hurts your pads more because of the indents

 

neither hurt your pads. the problem with drilled+slotted rotors is that they loose strenght and they are prone to cracking. drilled does dissipate heat and let the gases escape more than slotted. and as this happens they will stay cooler thus getting less brake fade and pads lasting longer as they are staying cooler

 

well than wut about those stock brembos that the cobra and mach have?

What I really am looking for is better stopping. I cant do calipers yet b/c of money.

 

i would say go with drilled. and some good ceramic pads

 

think what you need for your application. Are you racing alot? Doing heavy braking? Is brake fade a problem for you now? If so then drilled is great. If you just need a little more stopping power, then slotted will probably yield the same results with less money. And any non-oem pad will probably dust more, so remember to take that into consideration too when choosing pads.

 

Tire Rack expclitly states to not use drilled rotors for any track events while they have no warnings for slotted. Personally, you'd probably be fine w/ the stock Brembo plain rotors.

 

+1. Its a pain in the ***.

 

how many times does this have to be covered before a google search will turn up true info.

1. modern pads do NOT outgas. That's a fallacy. Ceramic and matrix style pads like Hawk and EBC can't outgas. So enough with the gas escaping nonsense.

2. Plain faced are best for street cars. They have the most surface area and create the most friction, which is what stops the car.

3. Drilled are weak. Period. You drill holes in it and you've instantly created stress points that will go bad the moment you need the brakes most. When you have a rotor break in half under hard braking you'll understand. I've broken 1 completely and cracked several others. I can't tell you enough how much you don't want drilled so just don't get em' ok. Besides, all the holes remove surface area and increase stopping distance on street cars.

4. Slotted are great if you tend to glaze pads with multiple 100+mph stops in rapid succession. They literally scrape a layer off the pads (ever so fine) and keep them in proper shape for stopping. The slots are non-penetrating so they do NOT weaken the rotor like drilling/dimpling does.

5. Drilled and slotted rotors DO IN FACT wear pads faster. That's life... it's not that much faster.

Now then, I drive my car harder than 98% of you. I actually have lit a cigarette off my rotors and boiled brake fluid and all the things that are signs of brake abuse. I use plain faced Baer Eradispeed 1 piece. I've never warped one, I've never worn one out, I've never been anything but impressed with the stopping. Baer have thick cheeks which absorb more heat and that helps fast stops. Power slot are the same basic design and I like them too but I've warped V6/GT spec powerslots once.

Get plain faced or slotted. If you don't run a race car on a race track, then avoid drilled or dimpled like the plague.

You've been educated.

Now pads:
You need to balance the braking to your suspension. So, for 99% of stangs that aren't raced on courses with turns you'll want:

Cobra front brakes with OEM pads. Yep... OEM.
GT or Cobra rear brakes with Hawk HPS or EBC Green Stuff pads or Akebono if you can find them.

If you like to track your car on road courses, then HPS or Green Stuff pads front and back. That'll give you the extra bite on long hard fast repetitive stops without losing too much cold-rotor bite on the street. Don't go more aggressive than green pads if you plan on putting the car on the street... they have to get a little heat in them before they're very useful and that's not street friendly.

 

That is also wrong. any non oem pad will NOT dust more as long as you chose a good brand such as Wagner, Hawk, Rayebestos. i would recommend Wagner ceramics. ceramics will also handle heat much better and as some people like to think they will NOT eat up rotors.

 

yeah... for the most part. Ceramic pads can be mild like OEM or downright gritty depending on the specific design intent of the pad. Hawk HPS and EBC Green Stuff pads will have a more significant wear impact on the rotor. But only so much. If your braking system is properly maintained and pads are correctly installed then it'll be just as much as the manufacturer intended.

Raybestos...really... you're serious? Wouldn't really consider those a performance pad. Wagner... never used. Sounds like OEM replacement.

Stock pads are very dusty. That's a reality. Most ceramic or 'etc' compounds are fairly low on the dust scale. HPS have been pretty good to me with that but they squeak like a *****. EBC Green have always impressed me. No squeaking and really impressive bite without much dust. The built in break-in layer helps with bedding them too. They can be a bit loud though.

 

wow thats alot of info thanks i may just end up with those regular brembos or powerslot

thanks for all the help

 

You are totally wrong. So your saying on the corvette if I want to upgrade to their Z51 package, which included drilled rotors, suspension etc. I'm paying 5-6 grand for fancy looks? Last I heard it greatly increased stopping and handling.

 

yeah.. that's 100% correct. It's just for looks. If drilling was that good it would be stock on all light trucks. They all need better brakes out of the box.

Go study thermodynamics for a few years then come back and argue the point.

oh... btw: the latest excuse for drilling rotors from the industry is that it provides increased surface area for air to contact which cools the rotor faster. This belies the fact that drilling completely destroys the ability of the directional vanes inside the rotor to force cooling air through the rotor body (much like a blower running inside the rotor body itself) as they were designed. Removing surface area is no less destructive to stopping distance than shrinking the rotor diameter.

It looks like they've finally abandoned the old "gas escaping" BS line.

 

sounds to me that anything is better then stock. from what i've read so far; drilled vs slotted rotors are about the same, just depends on what ya want. and as for drilled AND slotted rotors, stay away due to cracking/warping.

 

if i may add this thing...when i worked at Murrays auto parts, we turned away any customer with drill rotors that wanted to have then turned/ re-surfaced. if the rotor was warped enough one of the holes could catch the bit and possibly break the bit, which is $25 a piece, or damage the rotor. so we said "sorry we dont turn those." it was mostly ricers with 95-00 civics or eclipses that brought them in.

 

It has been proven over and over and over, that drilled rotors do nothing. Just because someone can spend $5k for brakes mearely just proves that some people with money are also idiots.......I think we have seen that many times before. Stick a big price tag on anything and people will think it is better.

 

yes they will... drilled rotors end up horribly scarred by good performance pads. They can't be turned and they cost twice as much. Slotted are easier to turn but you'll have a hard time finding someone to cut them.


drilled = crap. These crack, break, warp and eat pads
slotted = no better than plain for most people. When you need slotting you KNOW it. They don't crack, they don't warp easier and they eat pads up a bit.
plain = all you really need.

 

Who'd you hear that from, a salesman?

 

Ok after reading this over and over tell me what I should do to get better stopping then? Bigger rotors? Bigger Calipers? or just better Pads? I thoght when i started this that drilled were really good as well as sloted were. So tell me what can i do for better stoping

 

go bigger??

 

try the cobra brake conversion, it's not too expensive.

 

A relatively cheap way to upgrade your brakes is to get the Cobra/Mach brake upgrade kits. This will give you bigger calipers and rotors plus new pads. The cost is about $400 for the fronts. This is EXTREMELY cheap when you think about it.

 

true but then i have to buy rims and tires which means 17 in to fit the calipers and i cant afford rims and tires right now. just got new tires well im screwed for now but the Cobra kit is a good deal.

thanks

 

how bad are your brakes? is the car safe to drive?

buy these two things:
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/pts/353106322.html
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=594

Sell your existing rims and tires to make up the difference. I think you should be able to find some tires on the cheap within a paycheck or two. If possible, wait till you can afford new tires for that decent set of rims I found you (local to you too) and then install the whole shootin' match.

 

my brakes are good says the shop but some times it feels like im waiting and waiting for the car to stop. Just had the brake booster replaced 300 bucks gone it made it better but i just want to feel more safe.
i guess i will have to wait i cant even aford the rims now. looks like by end of summer ill have enough to get all this. i dont make much
thanks for all the effort and help to answer my question

 

just saw this couldnt i just buy thesehttp://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=620