Clutch questions
 

I will be adding my s/c shortly and will need to upgrade my clutch and flywheel. Can anyone tell me the best brand to use. Also I plan on having around 425 rwhp. Should the stage 2 be okay or should I use the stage 3. Also is using a higher rated clutch a bad thing? Just thing about future upgrades. Thanks

dont know what car you have or tranny but the spec stage two is a good daily driver clutch the spec stage 3 is more of an off/on clutch and isnt so fun on the street.

its all in what you want and can take. i have a ram HD clutch, and its a stiffer clutch, but i love it. i like a stiff manly clutch. if you have the money you may wanna step up to a dual disk clutch, softer pedal, smoother engagement, and better clamping force. but they are pricey. i have no experience with the RAM power grip clutches to know how much pedal feel they have.

a centerforce dual friction would serve you quite well and they're not too pricey.

df800075, 309 from summit. (for 3650 trannies. check your application)

flywheel recommendations
 

Any recommendations on a flywheel. 2003 Gt Vert. 10 lbs. Procharger D1SC. SLP LT'S,X-pipe, Catback . Is the aluminum flywheel worth it? Thanks.

keep it steel if you drag race or use your car on the street mostly. It makes it easier to get going from a stop and at drag racing it helps the car from bogging.

Even with 4.10's? I use it mildly for street racing. More often from a rolling start. Would an aluminum suit better. Please give me a pro's and cons' of both if you can. I am putting LT's on and want to do the clutch and flywheel at the same time so I dont have to pull the header off later. And pros and cons to brands if you know. I want to do this once and with no regrets. So I trying to gather as much info as possible.Thanks again

like i said steel is better for daily driving as it has more mass so it doesnt bog which is also good for drag racing. The aluminum is the oppisite. So its your choice.

no likey aluminum on street cars. makey boggey at red lights

Would the steel be that different than the stock flywheel? And we are talking about billet steel correct? I can get my old one resurfaced for $50.00 so I'm wondering if it is worth it to buy a new one. Thanks

i just resurfaced my old also for 50bucks and called it a day.

stock is sintered iron IIRC. Steel is much stronger but weighs about the same. Just get your old one resurfaced and save the money for a part that is worth something to your combo.

Cool. Thanks fellas.

i didnt even resurface mine :kekekegay:

Anyone have a link for a good clutch install write up on a 2003 GT or similar. I've done my own 4.10's and have done several other clutches on different vehicles but there always seem to be tips and tricks that isn't covered by the manual or instructions. Also is there anthing else I should be replacing besides the clutch disc,pressure plate, and throw out bearing? Thanks.

it really is pretty straightforward. best tip I can give is remove the shifter before you put the trans back in. make sure to cover the hole with cardpaper or something so it doesn't leak fluid. Other than that, it's just like any other clutch.

No other parts should be required. Check your cable for abrasions and replace with A FORD OEM cable only if required. Aftermarket cables suck.

i have a feeling that I"m going to need a new clutch here pretty soon with my new cams and some drag radials i have a feeling that my stock clutch with 35k on it isn't going to last too long... Only problem is that I just recently did LT's and didn't really consider doing the clutch so I think i will do the clutch whenever I save up enough money to get a tubular K-member to make it a little easier next time..