Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
 

Anyone know where to find a Carbon Fiber driveshaft for a 2002 GT?

And my transmission would be a TR-3650, correct?

arent they only good for like, 1000 miles?

Im not sure about where to find it, i saw it once but forgot, yes you have a 3650 and the driveshafts are the same from 96-04

Check this out

http://www.stangpro.com/html/articles/driveshaft.htm

wow thats interesting, good find

Here is a thread on the Mach 1 registry that compares all 3 types of drive shafts....I have read other threads that claim 6 hp gain from the carbon fiber drive shaft. Not sure if it's worth $600-700, but maybe.

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...er+drive+shaft

NOT SURE! Are you Nuckin Futs? If my math is correct that works out to $100.-$116.67 per HP at that rate your 300HP engine would cost $30,000.-$35,001. If we could buy our HP that way.:bash:

You can find the Carbon Fiber Driveshafts at Hammacher-Schlemmer right next to the Seven Person Confrence Bicycle that goes for ONLY $18,995. LOL:poke:

spending 600 bucks on a drive shaft is LUDICROUS. You want 6hp for 600 bucks, pay someone to procure and install some headers for you.

A common aluminum driveshaft is more than sufficient and will yield similar gains in all aspects (as miniscule as they are). Being that proud of 6hp is bizarre and disturbing to me especially when you can have a brand new aluminum model for 1/3 the cost and get 70% of the weight benefit.

When I put my aluminum DS on I noticed exactly zero difference other than I got rid of the driveline vibration that was the reason for replacing the stock steelie in the first place. Dyno runs showed only nominal changes in power output, not enough to even speak about (<5hp/tq). I've swapped to aluminum on both cars and the only difference has been about 7lbs.

untill the price comes down . . .

not worth it :)

I have nothing else to spend the money on, because I just purchased heads, cams, internals, nem bumper, & in the procces of choosing twin turbos.

You could give some to me since you have so much extra.

No im running dry....these are my last purchases for a LONG time

how about a diff and axle upgrade, or a tranny upgrade to support all that twin turbo power? At least with those you'll be correcting the undersizing of components before they break. Or even some cobra brakes. It looks like you have stock GT binders in there so that'd be my highest priority mod if I were in your shoes.

Like what? I never looked into it...I got brakes on the way too.

if you're on a stock diff, then a 31 spline auburn or eaton with moser 31 spline axles is highly recommended to handle the grunt of twin turbos. I'd also be looking seriously at a 3.5" or 4" aluminum drive shaft and a set of torque box reinforcements.

those few things will keep you driving home where the stockers risk making you walk.

Where can I find these?

It will be a sweet ride though.

I would definitely upgrade your rearend like r3dn3ck said though.

so one of theses? http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=M4841A+01

And what about a cistom aluminum driveshaft from PDST

Driveshaft you can get from whereever... the pricing is usually not too far off from one place to another. Figure on 250-350 bucks for a nice 4" balanced shaft. I'd get this one: http://www.mustangtuning.com/96gtand96coa.html

Your existing yoke is more than sufficient. There's no reason to replace it unless it comes with your new DS.

Rear end I would use: http://www.brothersperformance.com/c...roducts_id/461
and
http://www.brothersperformance.com/c...roducts_id/876

Where you get them from is your business but I'd call up MT and ask if they can or will get the parts for you. they don't list them on the site but that means little.

got those things on the way....What about a clutch? I mean the stock clutch cant hold more than 350hp. Whats a good clutch to go with? Anyone?

Call up my pals at apex and tell them you want one of their special dual friction kevlar units. They're custom made one at a time but they're the BEST I've ever seen and they hold massive HP without being hard to drive.

What are you doing about your fuel system?

Ive seen so many Auburns and Eatons blow. Id go with a Detroit Truetrac and Moser 31 splines. Spec makes good clutches too.

I already have the SVT Focus Pump.

a focus pump is a good start but you'll need more than that to support twins at more than 8-10lbs of boost.

What static compression ratio are you aiming at? Have you decided on a boost level? Have you gotten upgraded fuel rails? All those things are part and parcel to big boosted hp.

I had considered recommending the true-trac but I've started seeing reports of the worm gears coming unglued. I've never heard of an eaton or auburn blowing outside of absurd use cases so if you would, give some details... I'm curious as hell.

The SVT pump is included in the twin turbo kit. Its what they recommend to use. Im only going to run them at 8lbs of boost for the 1st year.

this is the kit I want to run http://www.turbochargedpower.com/96-04%20Mustang.htm

Heres some info, http://forums.modulardepot.com/showt...ghlight=Auburn
http://forums.modulardepot.com/showt...t+differential

I recommend either the Detroit, or get a Ford 31 spline t-lok with the better clutches. Im running that (minus the better clutches) though my auto with 3500 stall and launching with a 100 shot. Soon to be a 150 shot.

I have concerns about several components of that kit. If I were in your shoes, I'd delete their whole suspension package and get the MM and Griggs equivalents. The K-member is almost certainly a rip off of the Griggs design (probably made by UPR or Granatelli both of which suck ding dong), the CC plates shown are not maximum motorsports which are the only ones I'd ever use on a CO conversion, and on and on.

I'd get a griggs K-member (they're about 650 bucks but worth it), MM A-arms (non-offset), MM coil over kit, and MM CC plates. That'll allow everthing to fit (confirm with them before purchasing) and you'll be back in the land of solid reliability from the suspension.

At 8lbs you're still in reasonable power land, so things aren't goiing to be silly. You can nix the fuel rails (you won't need upgrades at that level) and since they seem to provide injectors so you're ok there.

Gotta say though...you're car is going to give me total wood when it's done and built. enjoy it.

I already have a suspension kit....do I need another one? And I already have the Caster/Camber Plates by MM.

The k-member looked cheap so I found a different one. I will check out the Griggs one.

I just want everything to be right. I dont want my engine to blow or anything crazy to happen.

what suspension do you have?

FWIW Bruce Griggs invented the tubular Mustang K-member and his original design is the one they used to fit the kit and the real Griggs model is still a killer piece. Griggs has always had great quality and impeccable engineering. MM's unit is more complicated and probabaly won't fit the turbo or I'd say to use that one.

If you have MM plates already then you're doing quite well so far. You've picked out top quality components so far so I'd be pretty confident. Your engine builder will be the keystone in the whole thing. If the engine isn't built right, it's all gunna go downhill from there. If it's built right, then with the other pieces will doing their job well you should have no worries.