Springs
 

I put my rims back on the car the other day and took it out for a drive. I noticed that I need an alignment. I read sometimes after installing new springs you need an alignment. So, since springs aren't toooo bad of a price I was thinking I should just buy them and get them in. I would have my alignment done at a tires plus around here. I can get a set of the eibach springs from them and they quoted me at $319, i think that includes install. Do you guys think I will be happy with this drop, or should i order the H&R (since they are the same price on here) and see if they will put them in for me. I really wouldnt feel comfortable putting them in myself. And does anyone know about how much an alignment costs?

thanks for any help

PS. I ordered my mac exhaust a few days ago

Do the springs yourself. I got quoted $375 and just ended up having my friend's dad helping me out and we got it done in 4 hours

if you know how to use a wrench and socket just take your time and do it yourself. not only will you save some money but in the future if you need to do it again you will know how.

Exactly. Dont pay anyone, its not hard, just takes a little time.

A friend and I did my springs in roughly 2 hours. It's a very simple job, just takes some time.

the h & r say 96-04, but im assuming they will be fine on my 95?

I agree. It's not that hard to change them yourself. I suggest upgrading the isolators as well since you have a 95. Also shop around. I see specials all the time on the net and at local stores. And most important, determine what ride height do you want and if possible spring rate. V6 cars tend to be more forviving with ride quality.

ive been talking to my parents about this a bit, and i guess they talked to my uncle and he said that i shouldnt do it because it puts a lot of wear and tear on the drive shaft and many other things. is this true? i read around that it can be a little bit more stress on the suspension system, but i didnt think that it was anything to be too concerned about...

what does springs have to do with the driveshaft? haha

Your uncle should keep his thoughts to 4wheel drive pickups.. which is the only time it's really gonna make a difference on the driveshaft.

You can safely lower your car 1-1.5" without damaging it in any way or messing up the handling or suspension componenets. If you want to do it right, get a set of any H&R sport/super sport, Eibach's sport kit, Steeda sport, or FRPP B or C springs, a set of Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber plates and a couple struts for a 79-93 like Tokico, Bilstein, Koni, Strange. No stock struts and lowering springs... tears up the strut too fast and leave you horribly underdamped.

The caster camber plates from MM are the best without question. Everyone likes them, even if they use some other kind, they'd still use MM's. Not every lowereing job requires them but if you don't do it and you need them you'll be scrubbing your tires needlessly. You can also dial in a helluva lot of caster which you'll like and if you want to run a 1/2 degree of camber, you can. 79-93 struts are 1/2" shorter and give back some bump travel which you'll like. After you've lowered it you'll find out how inadequate the brakes are. Make your next mod a set of cobra front brakes. Best 400 bucks you can spend.

You can install them yourself. Instructions are all over the place and it only looks hard... it's really actually quite easy.

good luck

so are you saying that i should get caster camber plates, and struts along with the springs? or will i be ok with just the springs. i aske this because it all depends on how much this all costs

You can do it yourself, it helps if you have a spring ocompression tool of some sort... my dad and i did it in under 2 hours.
As for the MAC exhaust, buddy did you pic the right system, it sounds so mean... some like it over my new exhaust setup, its louder from inside the car than my new system (age lol) but the new system sounds so deep from outside. It will feel like a completely different beast... just try to remember you have a V6 under there.

You do not NEED new shocks and struts right off the bat, however, like r3dn3ck said they will wear faster and the ride will be a bit harsher. In the future you WILL need to get new ones because the stock ones will eventually blow. You can buy stock Mach 1 shocks and struts to keep it a bit cheaper. As for the new c/c plates, this isnt 100% needed either. You might be able to get the alignment good by just hammering off the rivets on the stock c/c plates to allow for more adjustment. However, you probably will have to buy new c/c plates if you go with the h&r's because they lower the car more then the pro kit. I recommend going in for an alignment a couple weeks after the install. Reasons for this, first of all, the springs need time to settle, second, you want to at least try to get an alignment before you drop the $150+ on new c/c plates. For the install you DO NOT need a spring compressor. Here is my write up of the install. http://www.dndgarage.net/springinstall.htm Ive done the install many times and can get it done in about 1-1.5 hours.

the Eibach Pro-System gave me a 1.5" drop about...car doesnt look like a 4x4 anymore...

the Pro-System comes with the Eibach pro-kit springs, and come with eibach Pro-Damper struts n shocks that match the spring rate of the springs. I recommend this kit for those that dont want a 2" drop.

I didnt need C/C plates...but u do need an alignment.

ride quality is good. not crazy bumpy/stiff like other springs....

i can go into the ramps at a higher speed without much body roll like before...

i give this setup a 10 for what I was looking for..

o3gtmustang speaks well for me. I agree with all he has stated as my proxy. The only change I'd make is, buy the CC plates anyway. They give you a good handling upgrade when you jack up the caster to its limits.

Spring compressor is more effort than required. Don't use it. I use a jack under the control arms and lower them to release the spring pressure. Then sit on the brake rotor to get the arm down and the spring falls out. Putting the new ones in is a drop in procedure... they just drop in.

I agree as well, these guys know their stuff. CC plates are the way to go. And if you are thinking of a coilover upgrade later then they are a must. Besides, it gives you the adjustability to fine tune your car. And that in it's self is just cool!

do it yourself if u feel u can, it is pret easy, rent a spring comp for the front. the eibach pro will not blow the stock shocks, if u drop more than 2" u will change the geo alot a should replace your fact shocks/struts. cam plates will help re-alg as the geo does change a bit. i have eibach pics posted today@ my sat afternoon. did everything together and the car as no pull. i have an apoint to re-alg monday anyway-just to make sure

Ill say it again, YOU DO NOT NEED A SPRING COMPRESSOR. It will just make the whole job take longer, trust me. Ive done this many many times, just follow my write up. If you do get the c/c plates, make sure you get 4 bolt.

Perhaps to sum it up, no spring compressor, choose ride height, 4 bolt CC plates and pay more for the good stuff, upgrade to poly isolaters, phone a freind, and do the deed.

Woops, don't forget the struts. Should be done too.

Ok, thanks a lot everyone. Im going to basically do all new everything so I'll just have to save a bit longer.

sounds like a good plan to me. just take pics for us when you get done:punk: