So, I'm about to install Eibach pro-kit's.
#1
So, I'm about to install Eibach pro-kit's.
Got my springs and isos today, and I'm pretty stoked about finally lowering the car.
First though, I wondered if this walk through was a pretty accurate representation of what I need to do: http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm
Secondly, if anyone has any tips on trouble spots to look out for I'd appreciate it. Am I right in thinking this is a pretty straightforward, but pain in the *** install?
First though, I wondered if this walk through was a pretty accurate representation of what I need to do: http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm
Secondly, if anyone has any tips on trouble spots to look out for I'd appreciate it. Am I right in thinking this is a pretty straightforward, but pain in the *** install?
#4
I did mine the other way, I knocked out the lower ball joint rather than messing with the strut on the front.
Most the time on the rear, once you undo the shocks, you can almost pull the spring out, however, on mine I had to have someone else pull down on the rear while I pulled the spring out.
Just be carefull, springs are under a lot of tension, the front ones mostly, just make sure you slowly release the tension on the springs.
Most the time on the rear, once you undo the shocks, you can almost pull the spring out, however, on mine I had to have someone else pull down on the rear while I pulled the spring out.
Just be carefull, springs are under a lot of tension, the front ones mostly, just make sure you slowly release the tension on the springs.
#5
Yeah, watch your brake lines and hang the calipers up like Stephen suggested.
#7
Sweet thanks guys. I have some long zip ties I can use, and I'm not too worried about this. I'm doing the fronts and rears on different days since I'm busy and I don't want to rush it. Should I take it to an alignment shop afterwards? Probably?
#8
and im going to want to see some pics.lol
#9
Just use an old wire coat hanger or something, doesn't have to be zip ties just whatever you have around. I waited 3 days to get mine aligned just because of scheduling issues but it wont take long for them to settle, the alignment wasn't terribly bad on mine after lowering it surprisingly.
#14
Get that **** aligned soon lol.
#16
I know mine wasn't able to be aligned into spec, but only on camber, they wanted to elongate the holes on the towers, but I'm just going to wait until I can get some c/c plates.
I think -1.2 is the far end of camber, and one of mine is at -1.3, so it hasn't worn the tires too bad, I just try to keep rotating them.
I think -1.2 is the far end of camber, and one of mine is at -1.3, so it hasn't worn the tires too bad, I just try to keep rotating them.
#17
Yeah they told me it was good to go and its not. I should of asked for the printout of the specs and I did not. Waste of $95 for me I am gonna get some CC plates and make them do it again, for free.
#18
if they dont do it for free ill get u it for 55 bucks for a 6 month.
#19
Jesus christ!! $95!! I got mine done for $50, although it was a friend of a friend that did it. Let me back there while he did it so I could see how it was done.
#22
I just bought the Prokits and new isos and it was like 300 something. Then of course free install is nice. I recommend isos for sure, because mine were majorly worn out and you couldn't tell before you pulled them out. The install was actually very easy. Putting the new springs in took some work, but we did just fine. If you get Eibachs and you use isos it is not a huge drop. I am mainly surprised at how much more fun it is to drive. My car hasn't lowered all the way, but if it drops like they say they should it will still clear very nicely. I wouldn't worry about hills, but speed bumps will kill your cats. My car is absolutely filthy from our recent ice and such, but I'll clean it up and take pics in the next couple days
Last edited by Mr. Zip; 02-02-2009 at 06:43 PM.