started spring install...

theponyfactor · 08-02-2007, 06:25 AM

i put the rears in last night and it didnt look any lower

im going to do the fronts within the next few days and then check it out, might be taking it apart again.

There was a rubber tube thing in the stock spring just sitting there, what is it? and do i need it? just seemed pointless sitting in there.

krazypony · 08-02-2007, 07:07 AM

those are called isolators

theponyfactor · 08-02-2007, 07:12 AM

not the isolater...unless there is three of em. there was a rubber tube inside the spring, not on the coils.

*venom* · 08-02-2007, 04:51 PM

If you want to lower it 1/4 more than dont use any isolator. You need to drive the car around to let the suspension settle down. Get the biggest friends you have and go for a ride.

theponyfactor · 08-03-2007, 06:17 AM

ya im probably going to take the back apart again tomorrow night when i have some time again. hopefully it will be done by monday.

anyone know of a write up where they use spring compressors? a guy i work with has some and he's gettin them for me...

IceMan · 08-03-2007, 08:11 AM

Yeah those rubber tube things I always see with drag kits. I don't know what they are but I know what you're talking about.

-B

'02SilverBullet · 08-03-2007, 10:16 AM

Ya dont need a spring compressor at all. I done mine not long ago and front and rears came out w/o a prob. Since ya got the rears figured out , on the front... after ya got it up on jack stands, take your jack and raise the A arm a bit just enough to put pressure on the spring. Disconnect the tie rod and lower the jack. A pry bar and a tad bit of muscle will free the front springs pretty dang easy.

theponyfactor · 08-03-2007, 11:04 AM

i know you dont need one, but i had always heard it helped. plus i didnt want to have to hammer out the tie rod end or w/e you have to do.

'02SilverBullet · 08-03-2007, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theponyfactor

i know you dont need one, but i had always heard it helped. plus i didnt want to have to hammer out the tie rod end or w/e you have to do.

The tie rod was super simple. I just used a deep socket 15mm I think was the size. On the lower side of the A arm where the rod conects I droped a nut, had to get a wrench on the top side too to keep it from spinning. In fact, I have to admitt that suspension is not my thing. I didnt disconect the tie rod it was the sway bar. There was a small verticle rod that had blue rubber bushings on it (I dont know what the name of it is)But I disconected THAT rod on the bottom where it went through the A arm. After that nut drops off the bottom end of that verticle rod the whole A arm assemble will lower fully and take all the pressure off the spring. Considering you unbolted the factory CC plates under the hood.

Do a search on these forums I found a link somebody posted to D&D garage and they had a complete walk through with pics. Thats what I used, and I say its a pretty nice write up!

As you can tell I know nothing bout suspensions and that walk through made things super simple. I hope ya find it, and GL with the project!

theponyfactor · 08-03-2007, 11:32 AM

ya i know what write up you're talking about. ill go read through it again

*03gtmustang* · 08-03-2007, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '02SilverBullet

Do a search on these forums I found a link somebody posted to D&D garage and they had a complete walk through with pics. Thats what I used, and I say its a pretty nice write up!

As you can tell I know nothing bout suspensions and that walk through made things super simple. I hope ya find it, and GL with the project!

Best write up out there IMO. http://www.dndgarage.net/springinstall.htm

theponyfactor · 08-06-2007, 07:54 PM

does the taking off the tie rod make much of a difference when you lower the control arm? I have everything else off and i lowered the arm to try and put the new spring in and it just wont go. so will the tie rod make enough difference to get the spring in?

*03gtmustang* · 08-06-2007, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theponyfactor

does the taking off the tie rod make much of a difference when you lower the control arm? I have everything else off and i lowered the arm to try and put the new spring in and it just wont go. so will the tie rod make enough difference to get the spring in?

Yes, just follow the instructions. That write up is the easiest way to change springs, trust me.

theponyfactor · 08-07-2007, 06:03 AM

i took everything else off (except tie rod) and the control arm lowered a lot, i just needed like an inch more to get the spring in...i guess ill hammer it out tonight.

it doesnt help that my dad doesnt have any confidence in doing this type of stuff to a car and when i mentioned hammer it out he didnt like that at all.

*venom* · 08-07-2007, 06:35 AM

I have done it 10xs without removing the tie rods. I used pry bar to get spring out once the control arm is lowered. You can remove tie rod and it will be easier to get spring out but the tire rod is sometimes hard to remove.

theponyfactor · 08-07-2007, 06:40 AM

i got the spring out, i just cant push in the new one. i can get it close, but i cant get it in.

*venom* · 08-07-2007, 07:21 AM

Make sure that the car is high enough so control arm goes down as far as it can and you can use the pry bar to get it back in if you need to.

2kids3pets · 08-07-2007, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theponyfactor

i put the rears in last night and it didnt look any lower

im going to do the fronts within the next few days and then check it out, might be taking it apart again.

There was a rubber tube thing in the stock spring just sitting there, what is it? and do i need it? just seemed pointless sitting in there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by theponyfactor

i got the spring out, i just cant push in the new one. i can get it close, but i cant get it in.

What springs did you get

Try some lube on the front ISOs to help slide them in...pry bar helps

theponyfactor · 08-07-2007, 08:54 AM

i got h&r sports.

and i almost got them in without the bottom iso...with it in would be even harder.

theponyfactor · 08-07-2007, 01:51 PM

are the mach 1 struts like an inch shorter then the stock ones? when had put one in (with the stock spring still) i couldnt get the strut to come through the cc plate enough to even get the nut on. will it be a lot different with the h&rs?

also should i lower the car down first before i put the strut nut on so it pushes the strut up as far as it will go?

theponyfactor · 08-07-2007, 03:36 PM

heres a pic...everything on this side is bolted in...

*venom* · 08-07-2007, 04:17 PM

That may be due to the camber plate but what I did is remove the two bolts the hold the strut to spindle so I did not mess with anything up top.

theponyfactor · 08-07-2007, 06:47 PM

well i put the top in first on the driver side and i dont see how im going to be able to line the holes on the bottom up. if i use the jack, it just starts raising the car

*venom* · 08-07-2007, 07:14 PM

What holes are you talking about the ones for the strut, two bolts that attach to the spindle? Im not sure why it difficult but here is all I took apart to get springs in and out. Brake caliper,two strut bolts and endlink nut, thats it.

08-02-2007, 06:25 AM	#1 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	started spring install... i put the rears in last night and it didnt look any lower im going to do the fronts within the next few days and then check it out, might be taking it apart again. There was a rubber tube thing in the stock spring just sitting there, what is it? and do i need it? just seemed pointless sitting in there. __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-02-2007, 07:12 AM	#3 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	not the isolater...unless there is three of em. there was a rubber tube inside the spring, not on the coils. __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-02-2007, 04:51 PM	#4 (permalink)
venom Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 5,228	If you want to lower it 1/4 more than dont use any isolator. You need to drive the car around to let the suspension settle down. Get the biggest friends you have and go for a ride. __________________ http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...500/ppuser/103

08-03-2007, 06:17 AM	#5 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	ya im probably going to take the back apart again tomorrow night when i have some time again. hopefully it will be done by monday. anyone know of a write up where they use spring compressors? a guy i work with has some and he's gettin them for me... __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-03-2007, 08:11 AM	#6 (permalink)
IceMan Yellow C5 Z06 Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ocoee, FL Posts: 301	Yeah those rubber tube things I always see with drag kits. I don't know what they are but I know what you're talking about. -B __________________ C5 Yellow Corvette Z06 - 402rwhp 392rwt 2003 Red Fire SVT Cobra - Sold 2003 Torch Red Mach 1 - Sold 2003 Black Mach 1 - Sold

08-02-2007, 07:07 AM	#2 (permalink)
krazypony Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liberty, SC Posts: 705	those are called isolators

08-03-2007, 10:16 AM	#7 (permalink)
'02SilverBullet Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 385	Ya dont need a spring compressor at all. I done mine not long ago and front and rears came out w/o a prob. Since ya got the rears figured out , on the front... after ya got it up on jack stands, take your jack and raise the A arm a bit just enough to put pressure on the spring. Disconnect the tie rod and lower the jack. A pry bar and a tad bit of muscle will free the front springs pretty dang easy.

08-03-2007, 11:04 AM	#8 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	i know you dont need one, but i had always heard it helped. plus i didnt want to have to hammer out the tie rod end or w/e you have to do. __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-03-2007, 11:32 AM	#10 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	ya i know what write up you're talking about. ill go read through it again __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-06-2007, 07:54 PM	#12 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	does the taking off the tie rod make much of a difference when you lower the control arm? I have everything else off and i lowered the arm to try and put the new spring in and it just wont go. so will the tie rod make enough difference to get the spring in? __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-07-2007, 06:03 AM	#14 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	i took everything else off (except tie rod) and the control arm lowered a lot, i just needed like an inch more to get the spring in...i guess ill hammer it out tonight. it doesnt help that my dad doesnt have any confidence in doing this type of stuff to a car and when i mentioned hammer it out he didnt like that at all. __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-07-2007, 06:35 AM	#15 (permalink)
venom Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 5,228	I have done it 10xs without removing the tie rods. I used pry bar to get spring out once the control arm is lowered. You can remove tie rod and it will be easier to get spring out but the tire rod is sometimes hard to remove. __________________ http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...500/ppuser/103

08-07-2007, 06:40 AM	#16 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	i got the spring out, i just cant push in the new one. i can get it close, but i cant get it in. __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-07-2007, 07:21 AM	#17 (permalink)
venom Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 5,228	Make sure that the car is high enough so control arm goes down as far as it can and you can use the pry bar to get it back in if you need to. __________________ http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...500/ppuser/103

08-07-2007, 08:54 AM	#19 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	i got h&r sports. and i almost got them in without the bottom iso...with it in would be even harder. __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-07-2007, 01:51 PM	#20 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	are the mach 1 struts like an inch shorter then the stock ones? when had put one in (with the stock spring still) i couldnt get the strut to come through the cc plate enough to even get the nut on. will it be a lot different with the h&rs? also should i lower the car down first before i put the strut nut on so it pushes the strut up as far as it will go? __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-07-2007, 03:36 PM	#21 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	heres a pic...everything on this side is bolted in... __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-07-2007, 04:17 PM	#22 (permalink)
venom Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 5,228	That may be due to the camber plate but what I did is remove the two bolts the hold the strut to spindle so I did not mess with anything up top. __________________ http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...500/ppuser/103

08-07-2007, 06:47 PM	#23 (permalink)
theponyfactor Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 734	well i put the top in first on the driver side and i dont see how im going to be able to line the holes on the bottom up. if i use the jack, it just starts raising the car __________________ 1995 3.8L Ford Mustang Chrome 17" fr500s//Mac Y-Pipe Exhaust//SS Bumper Inserts//H&R Sport Springs//Mach 1 Takeoff Shocks & Struts//MM C/C Plates//Very Slow

08-07-2007, 07:14 PM	#24 (permalink)
venom Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 5,228	What holes are you talking about the ones for the strut, two bolts that attach to the spindle? Im not sure why it difficult but here is all I took apart to get springs in and out. Brake caliper,two strut bolts and endlink nut, thats it. __________________