Urethane bushing, should I buy or not?
 

Another question, I love a tight suspension, more than anything on a vehicle. My new to me GT has 130K miles on it, but runs great. I was wondering if a complete urethane bushing set was worth the time/money? I would also want engine/tranny bushings as well. Thanks for any help. Jason

definitely. I can't think of anything that'll help more. Your exiting bushings are 130K miles old and probably a decade or so old. Replace them but realize that poly bushings WILL SQUEAK LOUD if you don't keep em greased. Use some white lithium grease on all the contact surfaces before you install them and you'll have a total lack of bushing related squeaking.

DO NOT PUT URETHANE at both ends of the RUCA or RLCA. It'll bind. If one is hosed replace it, if both are hosed... PM me and I'll help you finger it out.

Sorry if this is a newb question, but what is RUCA and RLCA?

rear upper and rear lower control arms. If you use poly urethane at both ends on the lowers it'll bind up and handle poorly at odd times. leave the stock rubber bushing at the axle end of the uppers or you'll get similar binding and poor handling from that too. You can replace the axle end with a spherical like steeda sells but be ready for a little bit more noise/vibration/harshness (NVH).

Put your car up on jackstands or ramps and check out how it's put together. You'll want to spend a few minutes understanding what hooks to what so you can make informed decisions about what parts you buy. Taking some hippies word for it may not always be the best course of action.

Urethane- the way to go
 

Just had my 98 GT upgraded to Prothane complete car kit ( except the strut tower. Didn't need it with the Caster/Camber kit I installed) My GT had 137K miles on the original rubber, and man what a difference. Tkes a little getting used to the new way it handles though. Ruts and concrete break lines tend to grab the car and tug it one way or another rather quickly. I also replaced the rear shocks with KYB KG9090 (Mach 1). They're a little firmer than the KG9023 listed for the GT. I found with the front C/C plates and Eibach Pro Kit springs, the front was a lot firmer than the rear. You'll also hear a lot more road noise since the urethane bushings are a lot harder than rubber, and less of an insulator.

try mine... delrin in the front, aluminum bushings in spherical bearings out back. I don't get any actual noise from the suspension though.

brought back a month old topic though.

bringin back a year old topic, yesss
 

Hey R3D, I'm in a similar situation. I'm replacing my axle and all the RLCA bolts are siezed in the bushing sleeves. I'm going to heat up the bolts and air hammer them out, so there won't be much bushing left anywhere.
I've ordered a complete Prothane rear poly kit, but you're suggesting I don't swap out all the bushing's for poly? I've heard that before about the uppers, so should I leave them alone all together and keep the stock rubbers (with 90K on them)? And the lowers; which end would I replace with poly and which with rubber, or just go poly on both sides cause my original will be torched?
While i've got it apart, should I take the time to box up the upper and lowers?
Should I ditch the quad shocks if I switch to poly?

That is a bunch of Q's ain't it. I'm rolling a 99 5.4/auto, eibach springs, kyb gr-2 front/rear dampeners, 255r17's front/rear. Daily driver in Cleveland ohio (kinda like off-roading when on the roads). I'd like it tight, but I don't want to sacrifice my liver for it.