Having a real problem hooking up. Thinking some control arms may help some and was wandering what you guys were running.

 

Wrong place but depends what you are doing. If you are only concerned for drag racing and care little about the street, the Lakewood Traction Action pieces are hard to bet for the price. However, if you plan to use your car as a daily driver/like to do better in the corners, go w/ the Maximum Motorsports pieces.

 

Maximum motorsports LCA's and adjustable shocks will help quite a bit. If you want the ultimate in rear grip, the the MM panhard bar and torque arm package give you so much grip you'll trip right out. It's a pretty major change but the ride quality stays decent and the grip is just absurd.

 

also if you plan on drag racing, you might want to look into adjustable UCA's to change the pinion angle for more bite.

 

Thats what the guy at the local speed shop said I should do. Do you think it would still handle the streets as good as now. It as BBK progressive springs and Steeda sub frame connectors now.

 

better control arms with the correct bushings for your application will definitely be better on the street and the strip. Don't use poly bushings at both ends of the UCA's. It causes unacceptable bind. Poly on the front of them is ok but leave the rubber bushing in the axle. I wouldn't get too far into tinkering with adjustables so much as just getting upgrades in there.

 

What about the adjestables that look like the front has no bushing,just a rod and I bolt?

 

linky? got an example... Anything that is solid on both ends is BAD. Any poly at both ends is bad. We can use solid or hard bushings in one end but not both. That applies only to RUCA's. RLCA's I like spherical in back and poly up front for almost any application as long as NVH isn't an issue.

 

I say just stick polyurethane bushings on the chassis end of the uca and box them. As for lowers, go w/ the Lakewoods since you can adjust the instant center. Seems like you are going for a street/strip (drag) rather than a street/track (road/auto-x) set-up right?

 

w00t! agree with bassman. Poly up the front of the top and leave the axle end rubber, use some boxed uppers if you want. There's a lot of wiggle in the UCA's for a reason (won't get into it unless you need the edumacation). I prefer MM RLCA's but to each their own.

 

This is the type I'm talking about. These are Granaelli,but I was bidding on some steeda on ebay just like them. The steeda's got too high,almost new price.

 

so your getting something like this?

 

Just looking right now. Let me know how they work for you.

 

I will in a couple days. The mach is still in the shop and Im all the way across the country.

 

I generally don't like adjustables for less than the very experienced. However, with an angle finder guage and a bit of string you can very easily tune your launches.

[rant]
I HATE GMS (Granatelli) parts. Won't ever buy them, recommend them, sell them, posess them. There's good reason for that. Before you own a GMS part, do some research on them please. [/rant]

Now, that being said, a sperical bushing at the chassis end of the UCA is better IMO than a poly urethane bushing for a few reasons. The major downside is lots of NVH comes through especially if you have done a rear seat delete.

Poly bushings will always squeak and need to be lubed regularly to keep it down.

 

Ive got Steeda HD adjustable uppers and MM adjustable lowers. Once the car is used more for track Ill switch to rod ends and wont be using bushings anymore. But I dont recommend that on a DD car, they are way too loud. Whatever you do, stay away from Granaelli.

 

I have rod ends on my LCA's (no UCA's, have torque arm) and my panhard bar and I gotta admit they're kinda loud. They transmit a lot of road noise into the cabin compared to even poly urethane. Granted all my bushings are either aluminum or delrin so I'm hosed anyway but you get the idea.

 

How about the Jegs brand? They have UCA for $154.99 that are made inhouse. Part #550-40077 if you want to look. They look stronger then the GMS or Steeda.

 

Stick to name brand stuff. Competition Engineering, Steeda, I believe Currie has a set, etc. Just make sure when you install them, you double check your alignment since having one side a smidge to long or short will make your rear end crocked a smidge to one side causing veering.

 

Look at Metco, Baselinesuspensions, PA Racing, MM, and Steeda.

 

the jegs parts use spacers on the sides of the heim which I don't like. Those spacers add 2 more failure points to the mix. I'd say the same thing as 03gt... MM, steeda, PA, Metco... use something quality, not just what's inexpensive.