What is everybodies suggestion on the best spring for an 03 gt. I have heard alot about ebiach (however you spell it) and Ford racing. What else are some good ones. I'm all ears!

 

H&R are the best hands down.

 

+1...and I happen to have a brand new set posted for sale in the classifieds...

 

+2

 

any ol... steeda sports, H&R sports, eibach, FRPP B C or F springs... what do you want out of the car? drag race, street, autox, a little of each or just lowered?

 

I basically just want to get ride of the 4X4 look. I don't want anything to dramatic. Also ride comforts is a must. I do go to the track somtimes but i don't want the drag lanch suspension. Just a realitivly all around suspension!

 

you're GOING to lose some ride comfort so be aware of that... stay with the sport level springs like FRPP B springs or Steeda sports or H&R sports and it'll be ok. I'd use FRPP B or F springs in your position. They're progressive rate and give a nice drop of just about 1" (B) to 1.5" (F).

You should pick up a set of better shocks and struts and a set of MM caster camber plates too. Without better shocks/struts you'll be underdamped and it'll handle poorly. The CC plates will help get you a useful alignment that won't eat your tires up. No they're not mandatory but you'll really want to do them sooner rather than later.

 

Ok thanks... how much do you think the shocks and caster plates are going to run me. I'm trying to come up with a little budget?

 

depends on what you want... Tokico blue's will do just fine for you but Illuminas are adjustable in case you want to go more radical later. I prefer Bilsteins myself and use them exclusively. MM CC plates are 200 bucks-ish.

Maximum motorsports sells the 4 wheel tokico blue kit for $326 which is a pretty good deal. They're not suited to really high spring rates but they're about perfect for B or F springs. Bilsteins are 600 from MT for all 4.

 

Ok thanks for your help!

 

Make sure you pick up polyurethane spring isolators too. The rubber ones go quickly, as in, after 3 years, mine were COMPLETELY FLAT.

 

where can on pick up poly spring isolators? I plan on lowering soon, just hard now that I am in college, I havent even seen my car in over a week... will not be doing much driving just highway back and forth to the g/f's college...
doesnt look like MT carries them, and i dont think AM will...
these are from summit....
Summit- Poly Spring Isolators... of doom
Summit- Poly Spring Isolators... for the front

 

they're only there to keep it from squeaking. you don't even really need to use them at all. I'd save the 50 bucks and use your old rubber dealies.

 

whats the difference between B C and F springs? Do some lower more than others?

 

B are really mild lowering and a nice soft progressive rate. They ride pretty nice. C are just plain rough to me and they lower more aggressively than B. F is kinda in the middle... a little more lowering and a little more aggressive rate than B but not so punishing as C springs. As springs like these go, F always made me happiest for day to day stuff. For more serious work, C springs are the only way to go. Guys with big wheels and tires or guys with long tubes would like B's for the mild drop so they don't rub or scrape like they'd get with B's or C's

 

r3d, would C spring be comperable to H&R sports or Eibach Pro Kit? I had them (FRPP C's) on my 6 and I REALLY like how low it was, but we believe thats partially do to old worn out shocks. So would the drop be similar to the pro kit or H&R sports? I really dont mind a punishing ride, the ride in my 6 sucked but I didnt mind. Right now I do all highway driving =D

 

Maximum Motorsports sells them seperately in which I got the rear ones for $19 (not sure how much are the front). Also, though they may be expensive, not replacing them would lower your car even more. When I replaced mine, I gained 1/4" in the rear! And GhostTalker, I'm in the same boat as you, just I don't see my car for 2 weeks because of the distance...

 

Hey ghostalker:

The C springs would be pretty close to H&R super sport or Eiback pro-kit. Without a strut/shock upgrade though you'll blow the stockers up in no time and it'll handle poorly. On a 6 C's are pretty stout since the v6 is light by a couple hundred pounds. That makes the need for upgraded struts even moreso since you'll be underdamped and a bit oversprung.

BTW... edit my last post: last 3 words should read F's and C's.