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DISCONNECT NEGATIVE SIDE OF BATTERY BEFORE STARTING
Tach w/ or w/out Shift Light
Ford Racing Tach Driver (There are other brands i went with the Ford)
Extra Wire For Extending Tach and Tach Driver Wires
Spade Connectors, Butt Splices and T Splices
Zip Ties, Electrical Tape, and Double Sided Tape.
Tach Driver Instructions
1. Mount tach driver on fenderwell using some zip ties and good strong double sided tape. Needs to go on passenger side fenderwell behind air intake. (SEE PIC 1)
2. Find the (CKP) crankshaft position sensor, its located right behind the crank pulley on the passenger side. Looks like a small black plugin adapter, you can see its the only wires (wrapped in black flex loom) that are close to the pulley. Now strip back just a little bit of the shielding on the wires, now its time to splice in the shielded input wires from the tach driver. Only remove a little of the shielding, DO NOT CUT CKP WIRES!!! use some TSplices that come with the Tach Driver. Hook up the BLACK wire to the BLUE CKP wire and hook up the WHITE wire to the GRAY CKP wire. Then use the included heat shrink and tape the heck out of it just for safe measure. Remember DO NOT CUT THE CKP wires only splice them in with the T SPLICES.
3. Now you got to run the tach driver ground wire (BLACK WIRE) to the exsisting hood ground bolt (SEE PIC 1) Take loose the ground connection from the hood, and scrape off all the paint under the bolt now use one of the supplied spade terminals and fastern the bolt back and make sure your spade has a nice connection to the bare metal surface.
4. Next you got to fish the power (red wire) and tach output wire (green wire) thru an exsisting firewall grommet, i found one pretty close as show in PIC 1, take a coat hanger or teflon rod and shove it thru the grommet, you will see it bulge under the carpet in the car. Now attach wires to end of coat hanger and pull the hanger and wires thru the grommet. Once this is done go back under hood and tidy up all wires and zip tie everything nice and tight.
5. Now run the power (RED) wire and the tach output wire (GREEN) neatly thru to the drivers side (you will have to extend wires), once you have them on the drivers side, you can go ahead and connect the power (RED) wire to a switched 12V power supply in your fuse box. I did not have my owners manual so I had to do a bit of guess work. Hopefully you have yours and pick a correct switched power supply with out the guess work. Go back to passenger side and zip tie everything nice and neat once you are sure you have enough slack.
6. Leave the tach output (GREEN) wire alone for the time being. We will come back to it after mounting the tach.
1. I chose to place my tach on the passenger side of the steering wheel, seemed like the only proper place for a large tach. See Final Pic.
2. Take loose 2 screws holding the trim bezel on guage pod. See Pic 3. This will give you plenty of access space to run wires.
3. Take mounting bracket off tach and start test fitting it to your dash, angle it the way you want and once you have it in the sweet spot, gently scribe or mark the location of the mounting bracket. HERE GOES THE SCARY PART, take sharp drill bit and slowly drill out a hole large enough to pass all tach wires thru dash. Clean outer edges of hole with razor once drilling is complete. Now mount the tach bracket onto dash using screws (large round head screws that must be threaded all the way to top of head) You may choose to purchase black screws or paint them black so they will wont be noticeable. Once bracket is firmly mounted to dash fish all tach wires thru the hole that was drilled for wire access. Go ahead and mount the tach back to its bracket and tighten up connections.
4. Now run tach lamp (WHITE) wire to light switch and use a tsplice to connect to the red and white striped wire that runs out of light switch harness. SEE PIC 4 You won't have much room, but this connection can be accomplished. Once that is complete run the tach signal input (GREEN) wire down to floorboard and connect it to the tach driver signal output (GREEN). Remember this is the wire i said to leave alone untill later. (See step 6 above)
5. Now run tach power (RED) wire to a switched 12V power supply, again you can get power from the fuse panel. Look on diagram and choose a different switched power supply. Now for connecting the last wire the tach ground (BLACK) wire. You will see a good ground connection under dash similar to the once you used under the hood in Step 3 above.
6. Now stick key in ignition (DO NOT START CAR) Now you should be able to dial in optimal shift point if you have a tach that is adjustable by dial. Now turn on interior lights and verify that tach is lighting up. Now that tach is adjustable with ignition on (NOT RUNNING) and tach light is working start engine and see if tach is working. Rev engine a few times and keep an eye on the stock tach versus your tach they should be very near the same rpm. Now shut car off. Now set shift point to a low rpm setting and start car back up. Once car is running, rev engine to preset point and verify that shift light is working. (USE CAP AT NIGHT THESE THINGS ARE BRIGHT) Once you have verified everything is working. Tidy up all connections in fuse box, zip tie everything up neatly and reinstall bezel on the gauge cluster.
Ok thats the best I can do. Should take no longer than three hours to complete, remember take your time and the install will be neat and clean. Especially make sure you take your time when drilling the mounting holes for the Tach, your dash will thank you for it.