00PerfRedGT

I bought a blower for my 00 Mustang GT 5-speed last week. It should be coming in Monday. Its a supercharger from Wynjammer Superchargers (wynjammer.com). They usually make kits for chevys mainly S-10s. the guy that made this kit for me is supposedly the originator if the Paxton head unit. Anyways after many conversations with the maker of the kit i was told by him and a customer that i didnt need a intercooler with the supercharger. for one it doesnt use oil and also uses OEM looking black plastic for piping. (those were just two things i was told, there probably are more reasons that are more important as to why a intercooler isnt needed or offered but i guess it didnt matter). I am being sent a 6 lb pulley to run for now until i forge the motor or upgrade my fuel system. He said 6 lb because the supercharger he sent me is just about the equivalent of a D-1SC so i should just use 6 lbs. What do yall think about all this?
Also i am not really that new to the mustang scene but i have always been N/A and i have always dreamed of getting a blower. Ive looked at a bunch of forums in the past and present about what is needed after putting on a blower. I know there are certain things like fuel injectors, fuel pumps, MAF, etc, that need to be updated but do i need to with 6 lbs.? I was told no, but i want to make sure. And also i plan on updating my fuel setup to accomadate larger boost before i build the motor. what all will i need to do for right now and in the near future? Like what size injectors, fuel pump, etc. will i need to be around 400 rwhp?
My mods are in my sig thanks guys

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2000 Boss Shinoda Lv.1 Performance Red w/ Tan Leather #00-01
Wynjammer Supercharger, SCT, MAC O/R H, MAC SS CB, B&M shifter, Hotchkis C/Cs, Tokico shocks & struts, Hotchkis 2" drop, Chrome FR500s 18x9 & 18x10, 255/40/18 & 285/40/18 Michelin Pilots, Smoked Headlights w/ 8000k, Smoked Foglights w/ 8000k, 5% Tint, Blackout tails, Honeycomb Panel, UPR Interior Billet, GT Hood & Side Scoops, Audiobahn system, Royal Purple Synthetics, Steeda Oil Seperator, Spec Stage 3, Spec Aluminum Flywheel

00PerfRedGT

Can antone help me out? i know its a little long but i really could appreciate the help
thanks

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2000 Boss Shinoda Lv.1 Performance Red w/ Tan Leather #00-01
Wynjammer Supercharger, SCT, MAC O/R H, MAC SS CB, B&M shifter, Hotchkis C/Cs, Tokico shocks & struts, Hotchkis 2" drop, Chrome FR500s 18x9 & 18x10, 255/40/18 & 285/40/18 Michelin Pilots, Smoked Headlights w/ 8000k, Smoked Foglights w/ 8000k, 5% Tint, Blackout tails, Honeycomb Panel, UPR Interior Billet, GT Hood & Side Scoops, Audiobahn system, Royal Purple Synthetics, Steeda Oil Seperator, Spec Stage 3, Spec Aluminum Flywheel

cooper

42# Injectors
Focus fuel pump
Spark plugs
IAT sensor
and a tuner with a dyno tune.
Hope that helps some
Cheers
Cooper

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2005 Red Fire GT
Pypes Axle back, Pypes Off road X, 4:10's

jeredan2003

ive never heard of that company. How does it run without an oiling system??? There has to be some form of oiling. Either by tapping the pan and running a feed hose or its one of those self oiling contained systems.

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2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....

My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

00PerfRedGT

thanks cooper

Jeredan thats exactly what i said but from what i was told it doesnt need it. supposedly the maker came up with a way to get around that and thats what is supposed to be nice about the kit because there is zero maintence needed. I dont know if all S/Cs use ball bearings but this one comes with race bearings capable of over 40 psi if that has anything to do with it.

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2000 Boss Shinoda Lv.1 Performance Red w/ Tan Leather #00-01
Wynjammer Supercharger, SCT, MAC O/R H, MAC SS CB, B&M shifter, Hotchkis C/Cs, Tokico shocks & struts, Hotchkis 2" drop, Chrome FR500s 18x9 & 18x10, 255/40/18 & 285/40/18 Michelin Pilots, Smoked Headlights w/ 8000k, Smoked Foglights w/ 8000k, 5% Tint, Blackout tails, Honeycomb Panel, UPR Interior Billet, GT Hood & Side Scoops, Audiobahn system, Royal Purple Synthetics, Steeda Oil Seperator, Spec Stage 3, Spec Aluminum Flywheel

00PerfRedGT

Am i going to need all of what Cooper said even if i am only going to run 6lbs or is that just for later? sorry for the stupid questions but it helps alot.

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2000 Boss Shinoda Lv.1 Performance Red w/ Tan Leather #00-01
Wynjammer Supercharger, SCT, MAC O/R H, MAC SS CB, B&M shifter, Hotchkis C/Cs, Tokico shocks & struts, Hotchkis 2" drop, Chrome FR500s 18x9 & 18x10, 255/40/18 & 285/40/18 Michelin Pilots, Smoked Headlights w/ 8000k, Smoked Foglights w/ 8000k, 5% Tint, Blackout tails, Honeycomb Panel, UPR Interior Billet, GT Hood & Side Scoops, Audiobahn system, Royal Purple Synthetics, Steeda Oil Seperator, Spec Stage 3, Spec Aluminum Flywheel

jeredan2003

Yes you definately need all the things he mentioned. Fuel pump, injectors, and tune. You will need some new spark plugs, but the IAT sensor should have come with your car already.....

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2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....

My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

00PerfRedGT

yeah i do have an IAT sensor but i guess i just need injectors and a fuel pump.

thanks

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2000 Boss Shinoda Lv.1 Performance Red w/ Tan Leather #00-01
Wynjammer Supercharger, SCT, MAC O/R H, MAC SS CB, B&M shifter, Hotchkis C/Cs, Tokico shocks & struts, Hotchkis 2" drop, Chrome FR500s 18x9 & 18x10, 255/40/18 & 285/40/18 Michelin Pilots, Smoked Headlights w/ 8000k, Smoked Foglights w/ 8000k, 5% Tint, Blackout tails, Honeycomb Panel, UPR Interior Billet, GT Hood & Side Scoops, Audiobahn system, Royal Purple Synthetics, Steeda Oil Seperator, Spec Stage 3, Spec Aluminum Flywheel

jjtgiants

Don't forget about the tune! The tune is VERY important

cobra1923

In theory, with 6PSI, you're boosting your HP output by about 40%. That means if the motor is tuned and can meet the demands of the extra flow, you should be around 350-360HP at the flywheel. You might be able to get by with a good tune and spark plugs only but why risk it. Plus you'll eventually upgrade to a smaller pulley and want to run more boost, why not do the pump and injectors nor to be safe. Does the head unit have the internal belt like the old powerdynes or is it self contained oiling like the procharger?

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2003 10th Anniversary Cobra Convertible
All Stock and staying that way... well maybe some pipes since it's so quiet..ahhhh! it's a sickness

1995 mustang GT vert - all black (almost back together)

stevemainian

He'll probably only get 310-320whp out of 6lbs.

Im only making 360rwhp, on a 10psi procharger and 3 core intercooler, then again, the MAF is pegged pretty early, so that may be why too.

Get the NGK plugs, and gap them at .030.
Focus pump
With 6lbs of boost, 38# injectors will be fine, but id go with 42# just in case you run more boost.
A tune of some sort..

Optional:
180º thermostat
Boost gauge
Fuel pressure gauge

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2003 GT 5 speed - 360 rwhp / 375 wtq

*Flowmaster Catback
*Few suspension upgrades
*Black Bullitt's with DD's in rear
*Procharger P-1SC, 10psi, 3 core intercooler
*SCT Chip (Dynotuned by Ed Clark at Steen Racing)

r3dn3ck

I looked at the wynjammer design and it seems like they've removed the whole step-up gearing from the head unit.. that's how there no oiling needs. It's driven off an external cog belt using a VERY small pulley on the blower side and a pretty large one from an accessory like the alternator. The bearings are sealed and grease lubricated which does little to cool them. The site speaks about the boost range being from 6-10lbs which isn't surprising considering a rubber cogged belt is driving it to some pretty insane speeds instead of a gear or internal belt doing that. You don't want to stress your alternator bearings with the side load from trying to sping up 14lbs out of a blower.

So, IMHO a novel design with a few gotchas like limited boost potential and external drive belts but not a failure on design alone. I certainly wouldn't have picked that particular unit but I'm a vortech bigot so we all know what I would have picked pretty much no matter what.

00PerfRedGT

Yeah i wasnt too particular about the blower either bout i bought the head unit from a friend after it was just rebuilt with race bearings for $1000 and then just had to buy the rest of the kit from Wynjammer Superchargers which only cost around $500. I feel like it was a good deal even though with my car being what it is. With my car being a Boss Shinoda i am supposed to get a Vortech and a few other mods to go to the status of level 2. I talked with the local dealer of Boss Shinoda parts and he said if he drives it and likes it, it looks clean, and is reliable, that he will certify the car as level 2 regardless of the fact that it is not a Vortech.

My only worry is that i have a goal of 500rwhp and i hope i can make that. I personally have been thinking of swapping a built 5.4, cobra R brakes, and T-56, suspension, etc. and then upping the boost (obviously other things will be done). Now i am worrying about not only my goal but being able to get a lot of boost from that blower. And i also run into the problem of not having a matching numbers car, i plan to keep the car for a long time and being that is under the serial number 00-01, only Boss Shinoda in Performance Red, and the only Boss Shinoda with FR500s. So i have to ask myself when to call it quits. Coming from another mustang owner's stand point, what do you all think about what i have in store?

thanks for everything and again sorry for being so long

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2000 Boss Shinoda Lv.1 Performance Red w/ Tan Leather #00-01
Wynjammer Supercharger, SCT, MAC O/R H, MAC SS CB, B&M shifter, Hotchkis C/Cs, Tokico shocks & struts, Hotchkis 2" drop, Chrome FR500s 18x9 & 18x10, 255/40/18 & 285/40/18 Michelin Pilots, Smoked Headlights w/ 8000k, Smoked Foglights w/ 8000k, 5% Tint, Blackout tails, Honeycomb Panel, UPR Interior Billet, GT Hood & Side Scoops, Audiobahn system, Royal Purple Synthetics, Steeda Oil Seperator, Spec Stage 3, Spec Aluminum Flywheel

r3dn3ck

you'll NEVER reach 500hp with that blower. It can't turn the RPMs to generate that much boost. The only way to get there would be to put 4v heads on it, up the compression to 10:1+, and bump the boost all the way to 10lbs... it might make 500hp... might.

As for it being a boss shinoda... that's neat and all but near as I can tell it's still a box stock (as originally sold) GT with cool graphics and a body kit. I don't see it affecting the resale value too much just being a Boss car. So, ignore the boss certification, and move on with your mods.

The 5.4 swap...that's my baby, so check out the sticky in this forum and ping in. We'll help you with questions you have about that. I'm almost done building my 5.4L w 10.75:1 compression forged bottom end, ported heads and an HPS intake.. should be pretty fun when complete. T56 is great for road racing but I'd probably go with a TKO500 myself for general street duty. 6 speeds is just annoying some times.

kcast

you'll never make 500 w/ that blower design...

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2004 Redfire COBRA! #917 of 3,768
Mods Borla Stinger Catback
UPR Catted X-pipe
Steigy Blower/TB/Plenum Port
SFPHQ 2.80 Upper
LFP 100mm aux idler
UPR Short throw
Steeda CAI
Spec III clutch (i think)
Wideband A/F
Lowered (dont know what springs)
507rwhp 497rwtq <--old numbers w/alot of belt slip
Boost gauge/AFR gauge on A-pillar

00PerfRedGT

well thanks guys i appreciate the input and i think after a little debate i am not going to buy that particular blower. I have talked myself out of it atleast for right now... I have goals for my car and since a Boss Shinoda level 2 requires a Vortech blower and level 3 requires a twin turbo kit (not sure of the maker of the kit) then ill just have to see what my budget can allow, being as it is that i am only 18.

im definitely thinking of doing the 5.4 swap and ill see what happens...

thanks

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2000 Boss Shinoda Lv.1 Performance Red w/ Tan Leather #00-01
Wynjammer Supercharger, SCT, MAC O/R H, MAC SS CB, B&M shifter, Hotchkis C/Cs, Tokico shocks & struts, Hotchkis 2" drop, Chrome FR500s 18x9 & 18x10, 255/40/18 & 285/40/18 Michelin Pilots, Smoked Headlights w/ 8000k, Smoked Foglights w/ 8000k, 5% Tint, Blackout tails, Honeycomb Panel, UPR Interior Billet, GT Hood & Side Scoops, Audiobahn system, Royal Purple Synthetics, Steeda Oil Seperator, Spec Stage 3, Spec Aluminum Flywheel

r3dn3ck

5.4L man... mega torque and factory reliable. You can score an engine for probably 1500 bucks and then it's maybe 500 so in parts and 500-1000 install. Put a vortech on that and have him give you a BS level 2.