bikerjoe

so i just orederd my nx wet plate kit and was wondering what else would i need or maybe what i should get to make the kit better... example "tps trigger, window switch, purge, heater,"


i want a window swtich but ther many out there and dont know which one would be better for me ... i just want my nos to go on at 3k rpm and off at lets say 6k rpm while always having my foot burried into the on trigger and let the comp do the work....

id like to purge but its not necisary but even these purge kits come sometimes with the seloniod only what else would i need..

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Blk02stang

A purge kit is a good thing to have with a wet kit, just to ensure the air is out of the line, ive seen many car on wet shot bog down when first hit the kit due to more fuel and no N2o. Bottle warmer is a great investment if used with the auto pressure swith to keep the temp at a certain range, along with a remote bottle opener, but thats only if you have the money to spend on it all. As for nitrous come in at a certain RPM and cuting off at a certain RPM you can have that done with a custom chip burn, we do it with imports at my buddies shop, or just hard-wire to the middle wire of the TPS.

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New toys '07 F-150 black on black and completely blacked out!
'96 Mitsu eclipse RS: 'jus your average 2nd gen with a small block 331c.i. and a few bolt-on goodies(175shot) and rwd...1st one to be done!
SOLD
2004 GT Annv. edition.
Custom Exhaust: o/r X pipe: Eibach Sportline full suspension: Clutchmasters stage 4 clutch: K&N filter: Steeda Tri-ax shifter: Mach 1 shift knob: BFG Drag radials: Compucar "nitrous-n-a-bag" 80-shot Stage I, Compucar Wet kit 125shot stage II

jeredan2003

Joe, Having much experience with the nitrous and that wet plate I can really help you out. The absolute best accesory you can have on your kit is a bottle heater. Next is a window switch. The car is SO much more fun to drive when the computer is turning it on and off. The best window switch you can buy would be either an MSD or an Autometer. I have the MSD because I wanted all my electronics to be the same brand so they all work together well. You will also need a DIS Tach Driver (Tach Adapter) to make it all work. If you need help installing them I know exactly how to do it so PM me.

After having gone through about 4 or 5 WOT microswitches I am now tired of adjusting them. There is the possibilty of hanging the throttle wide open while spraying with them too. i bought the NX electronic TPS switch and I dont ever have to worry about it anymore.

Also you will find that it is better to start spraying about 3400rpm when the engine really gets flowing and to have it cut off at around 5700rpm so it is out of the motor and youll probably shift about there anyways.

You do not at all need a purge kit. i havent had one on my plate for awhile now. The plate just hits so good that you will never feel a lag in power. If you do feel a lag then you are either spraying too early or your engine is not running right.

The biggest improvement I ever made with the nitrous was when I switched from a MAC CAI to a K&N FIPK. I wish I had never bought that MAC CAI the car's A/F ratio was screwed up so if you have one then get a K&N.

Also go ahead and buy that $50 fuel switch from NX. Its just cheap insurance.

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2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....

My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

bikerjoe

thanx jerdan that type of post is what i was looking for someone thats been thru it and knows whats best ....

i plan on buying the tps swtich and dunno which window switch...


also a bottle warmer ..

and i have the stock intake with a drop in k and n hope thats fine..

and what does the fuel switch do???

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Blk02stang

Jeredan, i do agree with you on the purge kit, but after many dyno pulls of cars on wet kit, we've seen most all of them bog down when the kit first hits due to all fuel and no nitrous due to air in the line, every one showed a dip in the graph. As for the ones who had purged it right before the pull....it was a smooth easy curve. Also I hear you on the Fuel switch...very good thing to have, just like a Venom 1k or 2k kit.

__________________
New toys '07 F-150 black on black and completely blacked out!
'96 Mitsu eclipse RS: 'jus your average 2nd gen with a small block 331c.i. and a few bolt-on goodies(175shot) and rwd...1st one to be done!
SOLD
2004 GT Annv. edition.
Custom Exhaust: o/r X pipe: Eibach Sportline full suspension: Clutchmasters stage 4 clutch: K&N filter: Steeda Tri-ax shifter: Mach 1 shift knob: BFG Drag radials: Compucar "nitrous-n-a-bag" 80-shot Stage I, Compucar Wet kit 125shot stage II

jeredan2003

The fuel switch keeps you from running the motor too lean. The fuel switch allows power to the solenoids as long as the fuel pressure is good. The switch is preset to cut the nitrous off at 35psi. Your fuel system should run at around 41psi at idle. So basically it protects you from ever blowing your engine because of a lean condition. Even momentary lean spikes will be noticed by the switch.

A fuel switch saves the lean condition and the window switch saves from nitrous backfire and hitting the rev limiter. If you have both of those installed I say you can pretty much spray whenever you want and not ever have to worry about problems. Mine runs so safe I actually thought about letting one of my friends spray her down the street.......but YEA RIGHT! LOL

Yes your Stock intake with the drop in filter will work great. Its the next best thing behind K&N or JLT.

__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....

My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

bikerjoe

sounds great then a tps switch window switch and a fuel switch

i cant find the window switch i need tho .. and when i do whats the tach adapter ??

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bikerjoe

http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...NEI15961/300.0


hows this???

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bikerjoe

http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...NEI15718/300.0


and this

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bikerjoe

http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...NEI18959/300.0


lol and this

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jeredan2003

Yea all of those would be the best choices. You will also need this tach adapter----------->http://www.performanceparts.ford.com...tKeyField=5454

The Window switch or any other RPM activated component will need the correct signal from the ECU. The factory ignition doesnt put out the signal that is necessary for the accesories to operate on. This DIS Tach Driver alters the signal to something that can be used.

The installation is tricky but you will get it. This one is a ford part so you know its pretty good quality and you get good instuctions. You can get MSD or Autometer it really doesnt matter. The best place to get the signal from is right off the ECU in the kickpanel. You can also mount it under the hood. You can just get one of those tach drivers at your ford dealer for like 69 bucks.

__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....

My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

JayC

Folks my NX (MSD) window switch does not need a tach adapter. There are two different units , just tell NX what car you have and they will get you the right one



Jay

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12.70@106 N/A
11.55@118(Stock Longblock & NX)