True True.

I'm mostly just impressed at the numbers the 3v heads put out, compared to the cost of building an equal 2v motor.

 

they responded. said the reason they pay no attention to the 5.4l 2v, is because until recently they have received 0 emails concerning the swap and haven't seen a single 2v 5.4l mustang at any meet, carshow, or shootout they've ever covered.

which ever -Ed replied, said they will gladly have Holdener put a 5.4l 2v on the dyno and are considering a series of theory based test for the 5.4l 2v. maybe even a shootout if they can get enough guys with the swap to participate.

he did say that they get very little mail on the subject, so if anyone would feel free to e-mail them with pics, build list, and testimony it will do a lot for the cause.

 

MM&FF also said, they don't have the resources to follow internet threads. so its up to the people to contact them via email regarding whats being done in the mustang world.

 

I am defiately going to do this but the wife said i have to pick between one of my toys. I have had the 76 gran Torino(starsky and hutch) since i was a kid and its still a rust bucket. Cant part with it. So i have decided to get rid of my 07 GSXR 1000 full yoshi plus powercommander in order to get the $$$.My question Did the new intake come out for the conversion?? would have looked through the threads but there is close to 3k. What extra wiring would need to be done to get the 3v 4v.I have seen this Question asked but no real answer and im not to smart so use little words that i dont have to sound out.

 

update: dropped the 5.4 in tonight right as it started raining. fairly straight forward drop in except for minor manuvering of the motor. its a tight fit on both sides, the valve covers only have an inch or so of clearance when at rest. heres a couple quick pics, we were trying to stay out of the rain.

 

fun wobbling the motor to slide into place...

 

Intake is currently in the works for 2V swaps. If you go to 3V, there isn't much extra wiring but if you go 4V, too much is needed and you end up w/ an engine so wide that'll it'll fit, but it'll be extremely tight. I still wonder if it's possible to trim the shock towers like they do for 68-70 Mustangs to squeeze a 460 in more comfortablly. At least then you can access the header bolts if they loosen.

 

2V or 4V
The outer deminsions are the same,4.6l/5.4l. The room used for the extra head width is use up in the valley.

RED! I need that alternator. I have to use a skinny Cobra or newer revised one for that Holley intake. I'll looking around for one and really don't want to spend $250 at the parts store.
So be a good guy and just send that one to me.LOL

 

that's a structural member in the uni-body cars. No cutting. old body on frame cars you could chop up the body till hell wouldn't have it. Oddly the 4.6 is just about exactly as wide as a 460.

ding ding ding. We have a winner. And no no no you can't have it. I'll see if I have one laying around.

 

But how was this done on the 68-70 Mustangs, which are uni-body?

 

Straight from the FRPP catalog:
4.6 SOHC engine width: 25 5/8"
4.6 DOHC engine width: 30"
Not all the extra room is taken up in the valley.

 

Found an L engine that has under 15K for just a couple hundred. besides the hood clearance what other problems might i run into and what else do i need off the truck besides the engine i.e. computer maybe trans ect.

 

You'll need the longblock, and front cover assembly, dipstick tube (will have to be modified)

You'll use your oil pan, pick up tube, intake +/or adapter plates.

Your trans and computer will work fine. Tuning will be a little more fun with the lightning intake and blower if you use that and that sticks out of the hood like 8-10".

Bassman... IIRC the mods done for the likes of the Boss429 were extensive. I don't cut on a uni-body frame unless there's something else welded in (tube sub-structure) to take the load. I'm mean to cars. I could see bringing out the BFH to convince the shock tower to move over a bit but not cutting much out of it.

 

Well, the mod I refer to had I think maybe 1/4-1/2" cut from the side but was rewelded. Here's an article descriping what is involved: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/06/project460/

 

That's top shelf work. Patching the giant hole brings the strength back. I guess you could do that to a sn95 but there's the question of why... there should be no need. The 94+ bodies can take just about any gasonline motor in Ford's arsenal.

 

I'd figure for the same reason they did: so you have room to turn the header bolts more than 1/8 of a way each time.

 

true... but just for header bolts that's a LOT of work. Can't say I wouldn't do it but I probably would think thrice about it.

 

all Mustangs from day one were uni-bodies...the first gen 'stangs weren't body on frame either...

you can cut the shock towers on uni-body cars, but they have to be reinforced and welded back up...I've done it more than once (used to put 351C in 65-66 Mustangs "back in the day" )

 

so my car is finally done!! can definently tell the PI 4.6 has more power. now we can get the R3d's car finished.

 

How much of a power/tq increase will a good set of cams add to a 5.4 PI? Combo is

5.4(h-beem rods)
stock pistons
stock PI heads(maybe a little cleanup work to the exhaust ports)
shorty headers
tune
PI intake(with adapters)
cams(can someone recommend a set??)

Couple questions. Any way to add compression without changing to an aftermarket piston? I read the 4.6 pistons work, but what does that do to compression(raise/lower??)? I am pretty sure eventually Ill be installing an N20 kit so the extra bump in comp would really help plus off the bottle the extra hp would be nice

 

depends on the cam. With the stock heads you're not going to get much. You may see 300rwhp or even a tick over with a really lumpy set. The PI heads only flow so much air so you kinda limit power there. Add proper head porting and you're up 20hp or better right off the bat without the cams. Add cams to that and things can get nasty. I would bet that much beyond about 310rwhp is going to be tough to get without porting. That's just hp though. You'll easily see 340rwtq for nearly all of the rpm band.

The pistons are the same as the 4.6. Flat tops will yield about a 11:1 ratio on a standard bore.

Cam specs are like voodoo. Everyone has their own idea of what's going to work.

VT stage 2's should be nice, comp 270's or something like 226/244@.050 .535/.535 LSA109 should be very nice with ported heads (in theory).

 

Is there an online tutorial on tips to port these heads? I have done many sets of OHV heads, but never OHC. I know I will not match what a pro can do but have allways head great luck doing my own port work.
With ported heads and cams what power should I be looking at? Assume the heads are pro ported. I seen the one guy made 290 but that was on a low reading mustang dyno.
Anyone have any links for bearings/gaskets? Thanks in advance, im leaving now to pick up the block/crank

 

If you know the theory behind porting well enough to do OHV heads it's really the same on OHC except there's no pushrod bores to cut into by accident. It's basically the same thing. Fox Lake and TEA make about the best port jobs out there. 1400 is about average for a set of pro-ported heads. The best 2v power from ported heads and good cams on a motor with longtubes and a so-so intake was 340/340 at the wheels. He left a bunch of tq on the table with the intake setup he had. With shorty headers you'll drop some hp.

main bearings
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...M&autoview=sku

rod bearings
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...H&autoview=sku

head stud kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

main stud kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

cam bolts (need 2)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

balancer bolt
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

rear main
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

head gaskets
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

oil pan gasket:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...R&autoview=sku

intake manifold gaskets
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

that's plenty of money to send to summit for now

 

Redneck you tha man homie! I need to have the crank turned. Going to drop the block and crank off asap(maybe tomm). Ill wait to see what they say as far as bearing sizes. I am hoping a light hone will get the block back to where it should be. It still had the crosshatches in the cyl's so should be good to go.

Ill be sure to post my part numbers in case anyone else decides to do the build the same and need the slightly diff bearings, etc..Getting 320rwhp would be awsome, then with the gas on top of it should be a NASTY ride with all that tq! BTW, that 5.4 steel block is a HEAVY bastard! Wonder when I will need to shift this thing? Still early or will the cams make enough diff to bump up the limiter a little?
So your saying I can use stock 4.6 pistons and put in here? I ask because DSS had a set forsale a while back and said that it would change the comp if you interchanged them? Are stockers flattops or slightly dished?

 

Stock 4.6 pistons are dished for 2V, close enough to be flat-tops on 4V.

 

I assume your talking about the 99+ 2v pistons? The 96-98 2v pistons are diff correct hence why you pick up so much compression when you go to PI heads? Is this correct?

 

Non-Pi engines from '91-'94' got somewhere around 11cc or 15cc dish while the '96-'98 non-pi's got true flat tops. I'm thinking the all the 4v's also got flat top from the begining to '98.
The new '99 up N/A 4v's got 3cc dish.

By all means, get some good rods. The pistons will be great for stock duty and some light gas with a good tune.

Porting the heads sounds like FUN. This is what it's all about. Having fun! Not tring to be the biggest the baddest one out their.
It's good that their is some big bad ones, but not all want it.
Port your heads to the best of your knowledge and keep us posted with the build. I'm sure you will be impressed with the results assuming you use the bolt ons.

 

No prob man. The more people I can help get a 5.4 swap working for the easier it'll be getting the aftermarket to recognize the gap and make parts for us. Too much focus has been on hot-rodding driven by what the aftermarket makes instead of the aftermarket responding to our actual doings. We're all helping to bring back the golden days of rodding.

4.6 and 5.4 and 6.8 modular engines all use the same basic parts bin. Dish sizes varied depending on the heads. You can use pretty much any 4.6 slug. I'd make sure they have at least a slight dish or your compression will be kinda high. Cobra flat tops will net you over 11:1 and I'd go forged if it's going to get that big.

Depending on the cam and the intake you'll shift just about where you would a regular 4.6. You'll want to run it on a dyno to find the true rear wheel peaks and adjust your shift points accordingly. On stock rods... 5200rpm is about where I'd stop.

the few stock NA cobra slugs I've seen almost looked like they had a very slight dome to them. For those unaware, the 4v heads have a generous chamber size compared to the 2v heads so flat tops or even domed pistons work well there.

The PI heads have a much smaller chamber which would bump compression quite a bit. Not sure about the dish sizes.. they looked real close in size but the calibrated eyeball isn't a great tool for judging dish volume.

 

Rods:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...spagenameZWDVW

I think like 5 of us got a set of these. i know I have a set in my motor.

or, for pistons and rods at a screamin price:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._promot_widget

You'll want to call them for the bottom one. Have them replace the 16cc dish with a 4.5cc dish for about 10.5:1 on PI heads. You get rings with this deal which saves another hundred or so bucks.

 

very soon i want to start this project from my v6 to 5.4. For the people that have done this project is it a job that a average joe like muah can pull off with time and patience.

r3dn3ck gave me any idea of the parts like gt rearend, kmember, tranny and etc. I just need to find a 5.4 which is being a biatch lol. And like what 96blackgt54 said i want to do it myself for the fun aspect. And i dont want anyone else to do it lol