you know... those guys at MMR are so damned customer oriented it hurts. Gawd I like them. Just had the best phone treatment ever.

 

wow, nice.

 

OK let me ask this, can a stock short block that i swap in take 100/125 shot of the go fast juice if i don't take it over 5500 rpm? I know a 4.6 can take it and take it for some time, but can a 5.4? I'm wondering since if it can i might just take it a lot slower on the Strimed 5.4. Thanks

 

i would guess the 5.4 could take it if the 4.6 could. but the rods are the weak point on the 5.4( see my project page) or so i've heard from other ppl.

 

here is the link. btw, it was modular depot that has them, sorry man..
http://www.modulardepot.com/product_...roducts_id=154

 

most of the failures I've seen on 5.4 motors were rods or rod bearings. Those are 90% on stock motors in trucks so I'd say it's probably not a good idea to tempt fate too much with nitrous until you put some H-beams in there. They're only 320 bucks (TMD) plus the cost of getting them in (head gaskets and head bolts) and 100 for bearings. In searching for a motor to build I came across dozens of rattling and perforated stock 5.4L motors and the problem always seemed to stem from the rod bearings letting go. If they kept driving it after the rattle started then we end up with the rod breaking and smoking the block.

 

thats good to know. the asshat that broke mine must have kept it at 7k rpms for some time. the bearings looked ok when i pulled it apart.

 

so myillwillinc, what did you do to blow that out the side of your block? just wondering, i'm just wondering if 100 is too much for a low rev rmp motor for now, not all the time on the street just when i need it and for strip and fun. thats all.

 

the stock rods are too weak even for stock IMHO. They seem to be able to break without ever seeing the daylight side of 6K rpm. Still, considering the millions of 5.4L trucks that go for 200K miles being whipped on by ingrates it's gotta be pretty strong to start with (hmmm... maybe I'm just overly skittish of catastrophic failure). I'd say keep the shots to 100hp or less, and make sure the tune is right. If you don't ping that's one less reason for them to let go. Stay under 5500rpm and realize you know of a weak point. Try not to **** it off and pray for the best.

 

here is the aftermath of me 'loaning' my car to a trusted shop here.

 

OMG what the hell happened to those pistons???? it looks like someone took a grinding wheel to them. sorry, WHAT DID THEY DO??? man that sucks, i figured you went and put like a 200 shot on them lol.

I figure that if the mustang gt's stock internals which i'm figuring is the same as the 5.4's will stand up to a 125 shot then the 5.4 will take a 100 shot. I might be wrong but it all comes down to whether i have to rebuild the engine or not. If i do ill go with the forged h beams and a set of 98 cobra pistons or something around that cc.

What can you all tell me about those cheap rods that are suppose to be forged on EBay? TMD and others? spill the beans guys?

 

the idiot must have revved it past 7k and the rod broke. he must have kept running it and the piston was getting hit by the valves and thus twisting it in the cylinder. the other end of the rod was poking holes in the block and keeping the piston in the valves way...

 

the TMD rods are basically identical to Manley's or Eagles. They're US made in a factory that makes a major name brand and get all the same manufacturing treatments. Other than that... they're solid H-beams. I've talked to many people that bought their rotating kit from TMD and they've had no problems. That was the reason I bought from them originally... their price let me know they existed.

 

Nice, do they sell cheap pistons too????

 

Did they pay to fix it or fix it?

 

well the owner of the shop helped me out as best he can. turned out his son took in a couple other mustangs and took deposits for work and did nothing. one of my friends had his 96 there and they pulled the motor and disassembled it then did nothing. so after everyone collected thier cars and parts the owner was doing his best to make ammends with everyone. his son that had caused all the trouble endedup killing himself a few months back so i felt that he had gone thru enough of losing his business and son. we still talk and i work on cars for him now and then.

 

wow that does suck man. well i'm sorry that it happened to your car. Can't wait to actually have that motor in my car. I'm still trying to deside what to do about the trans though. I want to swap the 4r70w to a t45 since i was doing it anyway, i have most the parts already to do the swap....

 

thats cool. i've seen stock t-45's take 600hp easy so if you don't abuse it you should be okay. i went ahead and got a spec aluminum flywheel and stage2 clutch.

 

For street usage...is it worth the time, money, effort and all to swap out the auto for a manual...just wondering some say yes and some say no due to the fact that a man. just isn't that fun to drive on the street.....thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

yep... I got my probes with perfect circle rings for 500 and change. You can get mahle or probe from them for about the same price.

many say the t45 isn't strong enough but I don't take to that... it's not strong enough for you to flog it like the messiah but you can certainly enjoy the performance and not stress too much. I'd see about getting the t45 built up a bit so you can crucify it at will.

I would never drive an automatic if I had a choice. Every time you take a job from a man and give it to a machine you take something from the man and give a failure possibility to the machine. Aside from that autos are heavier than manuals, and require all manner of cooling and management components if you're going to whip them. I'll stick with a manual... at least if I frag it it's only a manual and I can get another tranny for 500 bucks.


Now then... I just picked up a set of AM white face guages with 3 color selectable lighting and reverse glow... 50 bucks used.

 

i'm waiting on my k-member it shipped out thursday. so maybe mon or tues it will be here ready for installation

 

[QUOTE=r3dn3ck;252579]
I would never drive an automatic if I had a choice. Every time you take a job from a man and give it to a machine you take something from the man and give a failure possibility to the machine. Aside from that autos are heavier than manuals, and require all manner of cooling and management components if you're going to whip them. I'll stick with a manual... at least if I frag it it's only a manual and I can get another tranny for 500 bucks.
QUOTE]

So about how much does it cost to have the swap performed or is it easier to do it myself.....and if I do do the swap what is the best tranny to get...a 5 or 6 speed....thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

if your doing a full swap i'd go for the t56. there is a guy on corral selling a pedal assembly off a 97 5speed

 

I say stick w/ the 5 speed if you are not going to do a lot of highway. If highway driving is a big part of your car, the T56's .5:1 6th will help your mileage.

 

pick your tranny for your needs. I could easily do the swap myself. Others may not be so inclined. Your call. it's about a 7 on the difficulty meter but there aren't a grip of special tools needed so it's more just time than effort.

with all the stuff you have planned I'd be thinking TKO600 with a 2.95 first gear and a .62 5th.

 

Well guys, Just wanted to say thanks for the info, and i think that i am gonna jump on the 5.4 ship too. Here is my question, hood clearance aside, how do you all think a P-51 and a set of stage 2 heads w/ comp stg 3 cam would work for a topend kit? i think using a mush higher flowing intake like it would work great on the big 5.4, but what do you all think? hopefully everyone thinks it will work, i ordered it and the reichard plates on friday, im gonna start from the top down, as i can stick all this on my 4.6 for now. also if anybody else is curious, reichard has 4 sets left in stock, they are out of gaskets, but have reduced the price a bit. ill just say its down from $375.

Also you guys have put togther one hell of a great comp here of all the info needed. Thank you!

So heres my outline for my project, should be done by june or july, and i think it will make some pretty killer numbers n/a.

P-51 intake
Reichard plates
Foxlake Heads
Comp 270's ( is that right) or equilivant
custom CAI w/ shroud ( 3" or bigger, the junk lil bbk i have now wont cut it.
30 lb inj's
stock 5.4 shortblock
full upr front and rear suspension
Ford racing alum 8 bolt flywheel
ford racing alum driveshaft
spec stage 3 clutch
at least 3.90's, w/ a cobra diff and strange 31 spline axles
already running 275/40 17 m/t drags, will probably go to a 10 rim and 315's
a few other goodies that i wont disclose.....

Think that will work?

oh yea, i will be picking up a 3-5" cowl hood for the car, once i see what i will need for clearance. i know the P51 rubs like hell on a stock hood, so adding over an inch of height to it will require a hood for sure.

 

wow that sounds like a hella build up. I would like it but i want my motor to look like a plain jane 4.6 know what i mean? anyway, i think ill do the 5 speed swap, i already got the pedal assy. , block plate, and shifter boot. I know i need the t45, wiring harness, King Cobra Clutch kit, cobra flywheel, fork, and shifter. What else do i need to finish out this swap? thanks guys.

O and i was thinking about this for my mild build up before i start working on a forged shortblock.

5.4 Shortblock
98 Cobra Pistons
TMD H beams
Stock Crank

Stock PI heads
Stock PI Intake
Comp 274's
RR Adapters
t45 swap
3.73's
150 shot of N02

What you guys think? should that hold me over till i do the forged short and get a vortec? And does anyone know where i can get a t45 for really cheap?

 

Hey guys, i'm looking to swap springs and wondered if i should go with the ford racing C spring instead of the B spring since the c has about a 600 ld thing? thanks

 

Hey r3dn3ck,
I just got an email from MMR and they said about 2-3weeks to do the engine...and right now i'm trying to get a ruff quote on how much..and if they can build it to pass the look and sniffer....so hopefully i will still be on track to come up your way around thanksgiving....i still have to find that tranny swap setup that someone posted on here for me...about how much does a TKO cost...and what is the difference when it comes to the numbers for 1st gear and etc...i notced you put..."TKO600 with a 2.95 first gear and a .62 5th"..sorry haven't really worked with sticks before i know how to drive them just not to smart about them...please explain...thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

That is just gear ratios. The stock TR3650 has a 3.38:1 1st gear and .68:1 5th gear. It's the same as ring and pinion ratios in that the higher the number, the easier it is for the engine to turn but you will turn at a higher rpm. A brand new TKO600 costs around $1,900 so a used one is your best bet for price.