nope... turbox2 is right. they picked a pretty tame cam that was suitable for either purpose but not ideal for either.

ibanez... I would still do the leakdown test. With all that work on the heads having been done, eliminating ring seal as a potential source of the problem will help a lot. It'll tell you almost for sure if you have to pull the head off and have the thing fixored. I'll just assume that there's not a head bolt that's loose.

 

a note for you all... header project is in jeopardy and so is my willingness to continue owning a car I can't drive.

the company that's building the headers has fragmented into 2 parts and the one that originally was sub-contracted to do the work is a little less than responsive. 2 weeks ago they said the car would be done this week. I went in yesterday to find that NOTHING at all has been done in the intervening time. It's been this way for the last 6+ months. They tell me 2 weeks and in 2 weeks it's either nothing has been done at all or a little progress has been made but not 2 weeks worth.

Not a damn one of the companies that has to date offered to make them for production has done anything but blow smoke up my ***.

My 5 grand is still spent but I have no car and no end in sight. Happiness is joy. I'll keep you guys in the loop... expect further delays.

I'm seriously considering selling the damned thing.

 

Take the four bolts off at the rear end, and slide it out. They're 12 point 12mm

Sounds like you need to go down there and make a scene, If its as bad as you say, whats it gonna hurt? Sometimes you've gotta play the *******.

 

Any of you guys having clearance issues with the oil filler necks on the 5.4 engines?





damn r3d, i hope it gets better.

 

The leakdown test would show you IF/WHERE the problem is. Inject a known ammount of air into the cyl and see how much leakage you get, if its excessive(20% and above) listen for leaks. Some say anything over 15% is terrible, this isnt what I have found in the past. By going from 25% leakdown after a rebuild of 5-8% I have NEVER noticed over a 15hp difference. You still havnt said if the test was done cold or hot(cold usually yeilds lower numbers), how many times you cranked the engine over, battery condition etc...
So, yes my advice is still do the test when the engine is still warm, if low add a capful of oil to the cyl and see if it changes. If it does, sounds like a ring/ring seating problem. If not go strait to the leakdown test.

 

Unseated rings would not produce a compression so low and neither would a cold compression test. My money is on the cam timing.

 

Ive seen much lower with unseated rings...Also seen an engine pick up around 30psi from cold to hot, it all has to do with the engine itself. ALTHOUGH I do agree with you about the valve train BUT noway in hell would I even think about touching them before checking what I said first

EDIT: actually I wouldnt touch anything until I knew for a fact the test was done correctly

 

a fresh engine with unseated rings will have higher compression than 90psi. Definitely do a warm compression check and then possibly a leak down before breaking into the engine to check the valvetain. Incorrect valvetrain timing is quite common on 4vs.

 

Unseated RINGS or Valves? And we can just agree to dissagree IF your talking about unseated rings and that was a typo, Ive seen some off the wall **** in my day. Ive seen a very lightly worn valve cause allmost total loss of compression, not a broken valve or damaged but looking at it with your eye you could barely make out it was worn! Thats when I learned its never cut and dry. And yes, I know incorrect valve timing is common with these engines. I still wouldnt touch a thing until I did the easy tests first myself.

 

Joey, first thing to do when you get your 4.6 pan is to just lay it on the engine(with the gasket in place) and rotate the engine around. I had to lightly bend the baffles to get it to clear AFTER I had bolted it into place Yours might clear but would be wise to check first.

As for exhaust, I had a dr gas x on mine and all I did was cut it on a flat section right as it was getting paralell with the car, bolted all of it on and it had left a 3inch section with no pipe. I just cut a peice to fit and had welded it on. It was cake. I kept hearing I had to cut it in the middle or something but with my car I didnt have to.

 

haha okay, thats a bummer you found out after you had it bolted on. I'll make sure to check before I bolt mine down tight.

will I have to change the dip stick or will it still read correctly?

 

Rings, not valves

 

Just for ***** and giggles, what sort of boost do you guys think I could run (non-intercooled) on stock 5.4 internals?

 

You shouldnt, with adapter plates the intake will be more of the issue. I cant really say I don't have a stock hood.


As for Ibanezsvo's problem, Did you put it together or did you have a shop do it? Are you using stock cam gears? The bad part about it is, from what I understad, you cant pull the valve covers off of a 4v 5.4 with the engine in the car, So I'd rule out all other options first.

 

hey guys. its my lucky day. my buddy totaled his navi and will sell me his engine for 200 bucks.i drive a 2001 gt 5 speed and need to know what i have to swap out to make it work. i know it will be a pita but i couldnt pass on this sweet deal.

from what ive read ill have to lengthen some wires in the harness, buy an aftermarket k-member and some shims, get an 8-bolt flywheel, and sullivan/custom intake.

can u guys help me with anything im missing!!!!!

 

What year navi?

 

I had a shop put it together, but my trusted mechanic had his son put the engine together who has messed up several things to-date. Including loose brake lines, & air in the system, leaking oil pan gasket, didn't put the required shims under the cams, and now a suspected leaking rear main seal. Needless to say I'm about as pissed as R3D about his headers w/ my car. I was so excited to get it back and i was in his shop everyday almost helping to bolt stuff up, and when i get it, its leaking and ratteling everywhere. So several times i've taken it back and said fix it, and this time he told me it would take a week or so and i said keep it, i dont want it back. I'm sick and tired of this car. BOSS330 told me to check the compession so i told them to check it, and when i asked for the results he told me 90psi. Thats all i know. I'm sorry to not have details, this has been a learning experience for me; and i'm very frustrated by my lack of knowledge and answers and lack of ability to put my hands on stuff that i dont understand.

Thanks for all the advise and please na_svt & supra dont let a difference of opinions be an issue; I sincerely appreciate the thoughts and i'll have them try the tests and post back and eventually we'll figure it out together.

on a lighter note, my girlfriend just threw a cow 86ft... gotta go.

 

Hey, how many people are doing something about the oil pump besides billet gears?

Myillwil, what all needs to be done to make your oil pump work, and does it work with or inplace of the factory pump?

 

I was just planning on doing a Melling pump.

 

If I were you I would go buy a cheap compression tester. See what you get. If low, try the cap full of oil. If that doesnt up the compression go to the link I supplied where I show you how to make a leakdown tester that is dead accurite. Who knows, maybe they never even did a compression test and just fed you the line since, going by what you have gone through with the car I Woudlnt put that past them.
Keep us updated. However, if all are 90psi I too would highly doubt the rings being the problem

 

You should try to work something out with the shop, since they did all the work. Hopefully they'll be civilized about it and try to make it right, and not try to screw you. If not, well a bad reputation can go a long way with the economy the way it is.

I ask about the cam gears because they can be "off" from the factory and could contribute to your problem. If it comes down to it, summit sells a cam degree kit for less than $100.

I know its a bitch when you pour time and money into it and it still doesnt work right.

 

the oil pump goes in the rear after the turbos. i have a t-fitting off the oil pressure sender, then brke lines to the turbos. the scavenger pump will push the oil bck to the oil pan.

 

r3d i know how you feel as i to have had to wait a while for things to comes together on my car... best of luck to you.

well after fighting back and forth between procharger and the 5.4 eaton set-up i went ahead and got the eaton....what can i say i love my low end









kit came with Lower intake manifold, intercooler, midplate. -supercharger, with upper plenum and throttle body. -all vacuum lines and sensors -fuel rails and injectors -front pulley bracket, tensioner, belt and lower supercharger pulley -intake elbow and 90mm maf and the engine wire harness. i know this is not all the parts but it is most of them. i will keep u guys posted on how everything works out and all the fun filled problems that im sure i will run into.

 

Nice

 

To R3DN3CK


I read about your problems just now. I am sorry for you and the fact that the manufacturers of your headers are being stupid. BUT PLEASE DO NOT GIVE UP. You have INSPIRED me and many others to do this swap. Take heart in the fact that you have started a tidal wave that is growing in strength. This tidal wave IS the 5.4L swap. YOU have begun this trend. Thanks to your patience and persistence we have a brand new intake manifold that makes this swap a reality. (HPS may have made it but it was your goading that started it) We also have the long tube headers to look forward to thanks to you. Granted the company may have split up but that in no means they can't finish their job. You MUST persist with the project. If that means you have to kick a few asses and take a few names we will stand behind you.



Sincerely,
zigbigadoru

 

got some progress today. have the inlets on the intercooler coming from the fenderwell and turning into the top of the intercooler.



- don't worry about r3d, he'll get his headers done and make some sick power very soon.

 

Hey myillwillinc.. You have a 2v, right?

 

yeppers

 

What did it put down before you decided to slap on some turbos?

 

Are the cams regrinds? If so, that may be the root cause of your problem.

No problems here.

It's possible that there are issues with the valvetrain also (since you mentioned the shims). Also, the shims do not gi under the cams. Shims are installed under the lash adjuster and along with lash caps on the valve tips, are used to set the preload while keeping the geometry correct.