Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
Modular 4.6L TechFor all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs.
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Perhaps. Why would a new block require machining though? BTW, P71's are Auto.
A new block should be ready to go, but should at least be checked out. However, you don't have crank, rods, rod bolts, pistons & pins, rings, oil pan, oil pan gasket, head gaskets, head bolts, heads, valve covers, timing gears, timing chains, timing cover, intake manifold, intake gaskets, and on and on and on...... Even if you wanted a built shortblock you would still be better off finding a complete motor with a spun bearing or something and going from there. If you don't need the buillt shortblock you'll save a lot of money by just being a little patient and saving while you look for a deal on a motor. When I bought mine I found one with 4k miles for $1200, and that was many years ago. BTW I forgot you were looking a P71 so obviously no clutch, but with just a block you still need a flexplate (which is cheap) but also may well want to change the torque converter, which would be a MUCH better spot to put some money than spending too much on the motor....
That's what I was thinkin. Makes me wonder if the guys that have already done the 5.4 swap in their Vics had to delete the AC. And yeah, I suppose a used engine would better suit my needs. Buying one just depends on how much I can get for my current car, and how much the new car ends up costing. Plus I also want to put some of the difference towards my credit card, so that will also have an impact on how much money I have to work with.
BTW r3d, can you do a sim for me based on the following:
-comp ratio of around 11:1
-HPS intake
-long tubes
-"average" street tune for 93oct
what is everyone going to be running for motor mounts...i was thinking on going solid if possible or atleast the hardest ones available...i had to go solid with a rabbit gti i built...it was definately something i would do again if i could...eveyone hated the way it felt as far as the driveline vibration...but i loved it
I have a '98 Mustang GT and am thinking about a 5.4 SOHC swap with the newly available HPS intake. What is the best year (or range of years) 5.4 to use as a donor? Having or not having PI heads doesn't really matter as I will buy CNC ported heads should I move forward with the idea. Also pistons and rods would be replaced with better aftermarket units to acheive the wanted comp ratio. I'd run the OE crank as even Ford's cast cranks are quite tough.
I am wondering about the front dress compatability using what's on the 4.6 or using what's on the 5.4. I want to give up nothicg (a/c, p/s, etc..) and gain cubic inches.
tjm: all your stock accessories transfer. you'll give up exactly zero. Get a 98-01 expedition or van motor for the easiest time (the front cover is really what matters). Check out my web site and you'll see pics of mine, it's a 00' expedition motor.
audi: yeah, fully dressed minus intake and exhaust pre-01 weigh like 25lbs more than a 4.6. 01+ NVH blocks added 18lbs more. The HPS intake weighs about 40lbs. All tolled you'll see a nominal 100lbs added to the front. Do a coil over conversion and tubular k-member and you'll be about back to neutral on the weight gain. FWIW, I can only tell the slightest difference in the braking and handling from the 4.6.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
Sorry to ask this as i'm sure its been covered, but are all 5.4 blocks are the same? I found a navigator block failry cheap and was wondering if 2 valve heads would bolt up. Thanks.
what is everyone going to be running for motor mounts...i was thinking on going solid if possible or atleast the hardest ones available...i had to go solid with a rabbit gti i built...it was definately something i would do again if i could...eveyone hated the way it felt as far as the driveline vibration...but i loved it
when i had the nonPI 5.4 before i kept trashing trans mounts from playing with the new found tq. so this time both mine and sleepingGt's have soild motor and trans mounts from arts parts(best price i found) and from intial driving both cars it's only noticable when your idling that you have soild mounts
Thanks r3d. I was actually looking for the overall weight so I can get some shipping estimates. And will a K-member even work on a Vic? Your mustangs are unibody, right? CV's have a full frame..
BTW, did you see the post where I asked about you doing the sim? I'm not trying to be annoying.. I'm just curious to see what I could make with that setup . If the #'s aren't "good" enough for me, I could always consider a head port/cam swap. I just don't want something that sounds like it's stalling at idle.
when i had the nonPI 5.4 before i kept trashing trans mounts from playing with the new found tq. so this time both mine and sleepingGt's have soild motor and trans mounts from arts parts(best price i found) and from intial driving both cars it's only noticable when your idling that you have soild mounts
thanks...the gti i built was a heavy cam... PP solid lifter head with all the bolt on's setup on top of a 2.0ltr crossflow motot...so at idle it was like running a jackhammer...the car went like a mutha but sucked as a daily driver...hey...whenever you can get a NA 4cyl volks into the 13's you going good...thanks again
when i had the nonPI 5.4 before i kept trashing trans mounts from playing with the new found tq. so this time both mine and sleepingGt's have soild motor and trans mounts from arts parts(best price i found) and from intial driving both cars it's only noticable when your idling that you have soild mounts
You cannot run solid engine mounts and a solid tranny mount without damaging parts. The twisting force will break something. Usually it will break the bellhousing or the tailshaft of the tranny.
You can run solid motor mounts with a rubber or urethane tranny mount.
well i have had no problems with it on a 98 cobra i installed them on. been around 6 months now and the guy flogs the cobra everyday....
No problems yet, but it will happen. Unless the car is fully caged, the body will twist and break something in the drive line. It's not a "might happen" kind of thing. It will happen. Do a search for solid engine mounts and see how many peopel have broke something.
No problems yet, but it will happen. Unless the car is fully caged, the body will twist and break something in the drive line. It's not a "might happen" kind of thing. It will happen. Do a search for solid engine mounts and see how many peopel have broke something.
I'd say the same thing, don't run both. The amount of torque produced and the type of tires run makes a huge difference, but I'd leave the tranny as rubber or urethane...
Silly question but I think you guys would know, I have been told that porting the exhaust ports on the heads will cause a loss in Tourqe. Is that true, becuase I don't think it is.
Hey Bond.. It looks like we're on the same page . Only difference is that the P71 I'm using will be an '04. That's because 03 and up P71's come with rack and pinion, updated front suspension, larger engine bay, and better brakes. Best of luck to ya!
Hey Bond.. It looks like we're on the same page . Only difference is that the P71 I'm using will be an '04. That's because 03 and up P71's come with rack and pinion, updated front suspension, larger engine bay, and better brakes. Best of luck to ya!
you can use knooks Long Tubes in a 03+ Vic.
I have to get a custom set made. If your working on a Vic check out Crown Vic.Net. they may not know what they are talking about half the time when it comes to hot rodding these cars but it's good for tech stuff.
Yeah.. I did a quick search for a CV forum, but all of the one's I found hadn't been updated for a couple of years. BTW, I posted a rear shot of the car I'm looking at on the previous page. Kind of an unusual color, but it's growing on me
Yes and no. The exhaust port's volume is adequate but there is room for improvement in terms of making it flow better (work on the radii, etc.).
I've been told the intake needs more work, but like you said the exhaust can definately be improved. I worked my exhaust ports a fair amount and don't seem to have suffered in the torque department...
ok, not yet. it'll be soon though. Rumors are that TFS is debuting a set of 2v heads at Sema.
i have word from one retailer who has already seen them and will have them in stock after they debut.
"They'll definitely be out. These are not a concept or anything. They exist and are on running cars. I need to shut up before I get in trouble. It won't be long before the info is out. If you guys want to send a email to sales@modulardepot.com with the title of '2v heads', I will email everyone the info as soon as I'm given the green light and keep you on a mailing list to let you know as soon as they become available.
ken"
"They won't be that cheap. I've seen them, touched them and even rubbed them.smiley You guys won't be disappointed. But don't let your imagination run away from you either.
Ken"
"These may have taken a long time to happen, but I was very impressed with what was done. It's more than just better flow numbers. "
someone at trick flow says to watch out for sema booth #20403.
"The only PI heads I see being sold after these heads I know nothing about come out are very cheap ones. Otherwise, there will be no reason to go PI."
i'm interested to see what these have over companies like TEA and Patriot....
Its trickflow. they are a completely new casting. NOT ported stock heads.
There is a few mules with them doing testing. Out of the box i am hearing rumors that they outmatch any ported PI head. ~250cfm or more flow while maintaining velocity.
. Only difference is that the P71 I'm using will be an '04. That's because 03 and up P71's come with rack and pinion, updated front suspension, larger engine bay, and better brakes. Best of luck to ya!
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