so the flowtech passenger side is just a rumor and not yet proven?

I'll have to call around to a few shops and see if i can get the header modified

 

any word from Bob?
thanks

 

RED!

I think you are going to have to tell Bob, we 5.4l guys are ready for their intake!LOL

I'm eyeballing the 4.6l Edelbrock carb intake with adapters if something don't happen soon.

Will be needing something for my CrownVic build and that HPS intake would be great!!!

 

he's hurryin up. It's a lot of intakes and they all have to be machined perfectly.

 

How many people plan to retain their EGR in their swap? How many that are in on the intake dealio have purchased billet rails? How many are going to extend the stock fuel crossover and use the stock lines? How many are planning billet rails?

I'm going to offer you guys a special dealio on fuel rail setups for 99-04 (returnless) cars.
Stage 1:
I'll set you up with 1/2" billet rails (blue), with all the lines and fittings set up for you (as bolt-on as you can get) in the stock configuration. This means the stock fuel inlet location and crossover. It's fine for basic swaps. This is 150+shipping.

Stage 2+:
This is adding all that cool stuff everyone likes. It's always custom and prices vary.

You can add a true Y-block to cut the effective fuel rail length in half. This is great for balancing fuel delivery across cylinders, especially on 99-04 cars. The y-block is 35 bucks or a 1in-3out showerhead can be had for about 15-20 bones, add about 40 bucks in extra fuel line and fittings for that route. It's the best for most everyone.

You can go to stage 3 with the addition of an auxiliary fuel filter (Trick Flow) like I use. It's 85 bucks just for the filter and there's another 30-40 for the extra fittings for that.

The setup I'm offering is bigger than mine. i used -6 (3/8") lines, all the kits I build for you will be -8 (1/2") throughout. You can support over 1000hp with that much fuel line.

 

I was planning on keeping the EGR, but as far as headers go, wont break my heart if the long tubes dont have a bung for it.

I havent got any rails yet but mines a '97

 

i just got my sumped tank back yesterday. i got the a1000 pump and filter, -8an lines all the way up to the y-block and billit rails and regulator. so i shouldn't need to upgrade my fuel system anytime soon.

 

My egr is already removed I need my intake sooooooon! I should have motor in next week, I have probably another week in fabrication of turbo headers and innercooler tubes. Can you run my setup through your software and see what power it will make, 5.4L .020 over, 270 cams. full cnc port and 1mm larger valves, 8.5 to 1, and 14lbs of turbo boost.

 

should see 525-600rwhp, 500rwtq (avg rwtq >400 2k RPM to redline). Definitely need the big fuel system. Sumped tank would be a good idea.


I can do yours for just about the same cost. LMK if you need. They're all at my cost anyway.

/me puts that on his list of things to do.

 

I'm psyched... I went and got my engine today! It was from a 1997 E350 and has 70k miles. With my PI heads swapped over, my CR should bump to near 10:1. I'm going to be tearing it down over the next couple days and see what condition the crank is in. I will more than likely be replacing the main and rod bearings, and if I have to, get the crank polished. I will start to post up some pics of my progress as I get further into it... right now all I have is a dirty, greasy truck engine sitting on a stand.

 

pricey, but thought someone might be interested




http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...t=98939&page=3

 

would this work fine with adapter plates?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MESE:IT&ih=020

 

......................

 

 

Well, Ill be reporting back shortly on how BBK longtubes fit and what all will be needed to modify to make them work.

 

Seems like a lot of work for that intake since it needs holes fixed and the paint. Should work though, just the fuel rail bolt hole would scare me

 

that reichard intake is a screamin deal. You won't use the coil pack bolts in all probability anyway and re-tapping a single bolt hole is retarded easy and takes like 5 minutes. Paint... who cares.

I almost bought that intake.... still might if none of you are going to. If I buy it I'll be selling it repaired for 1000.

On the longtubes... I'm so sick of flakey companies. I'm on my 4th company. This guy is going to make custom headers for us and he's only gunna make 15 sets for the time being.

 

http://corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1004360

someone selling 5.4 block, forged crank and a BAD MUTHERFUCKIN turbo head unit.

 

http://corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1004362

5.4 4v with blower. Ready to go.

 

If thats all thats wrong with it yes, but Ive bought "fixer up" parts before and 99% of the time theres more to it than advertised. Might not be in this case though so who knows!

 

Boy I know how that is. Bought my share of fixer parts.. there's always something else missing.

 

hello eveyone. ive been looking at this forum and im trying to read all of it....as you all know this will take some time.

the question im gonna ask may have been answered so if it was im sorry. i have a 5.4 im putting in and i have a procharger p-1sc kit for a 4.6 just sitting in the trunk. i was wondering if the blower bracket has to be modified in order to use it on the 5.4. if so was it a lot of trouble?

also thanks r3dn3ck for showing me this forum. u may not remember giving me the link though cause it was like a onth ago.

 

Don't bother reading all of it.. we end up repeating ourselves like 10 times throughout it.

If you have any other specific questions shoot and we'll answer. Specifics are easy to spit out... generalized stuff is hard. It's totally general non-specific questions that drive me nuts.

Your procharger will work just fine. There are 2 routes you can take:
1. cut the top off your 4.6 front cover and have it welded onto your 5.4 front cover. You'll have a franken-cover that your blower should bolt right up to.
2. grab a 1/2" thick plate of aluminum and have it machined and drilled where necessary. Add a couple aluminum stand-offs and pulleys in the right place. I called both ATI and Vortech and both use that standard 1/2" thickness and they avoid any complicated machining or bends since that significantly raises their costs.

Should be fairly easy. There's at least 1 other guy here doing that. You'll have to wait for him to speak up or find him and ping him cuz' I don't recall who it was.

Welcome to the machine. 5.4 power is the most fun.

 

thanks. yea im just gonna rock the stock internals for now. i have everything to do up a 4.6 shortblock but screw it. im sold on the 5.4.

what i am aiming to do is run just around 8 pounds on the procharger that way the motor will hold for a lil bit and then i can focus on getting me a better transmission, build up the rearend, and get me a good fuel system.

so with a built 5.4 will full valve train and all other goodies can the motor be a high revver ( 7000ish rpms or is that just to much for those long rods?

 

" Definitely need the big fuel system. Sumped tank would be a good idea."



I have rails and and Aeromotive return regulator(boost ref 1 to1) 8an feed 6an return. was thinking of building my own twin high preasure 255 walbro pump setup in the tank. I want to stay away from a sumped tank. I thought may be I could set the second pump up to turn on at 1 psi boost and normal driving would just be on one pump. I would change ecu to run pump 1 all the time and then wire pump two through preasure sensor/relay and add an LED on dash so I knew when it was working.

I am currently using GT Supercar pump with returnless system, I will keep it to get things running and then upgrade fuel system when I decide to turn the wick up. This was the setup I used with 8psi on stock 4.6 it would run the a/f ratio down to 8to1.

 

It's quite possible and not even really hard. You'll want good parts in the bottom end and you'll want it thoroughly balanced and assembled with fairly strict tolerances so you can enjoy maximum life.

The problem is the head flow on the 2v heads. The 2v head is good for 0-6500rpm operation and that's about it with the 5.4 due to flow limits. After that it's just not going to help matters power wise to spin any faster. If you want to go 7K+ then I'd consider doing a 3v, otherwise just change your rear gears to something numerically smaller and let the tq make up the difference. You'll want 3.27 or 3.55 gears anyway... that blower is going to be flat *** unruly with anything shorter. You'll also need to swap the pulley to something smaller than the one it comes with for the 4.6 to maintain 8lbs.

With proper gearing it doesn't matter where your power band is or how high you rev it.

Seems like someone has a firm handle on their fuel system needs.

I'm looking to go the 22-25gallon fuel cell route. I keep getting sniped on ebay for 32 gallon cells so I'll just go with something smaller and more plentiful.

 

R3d, couple q's about the hardballr 5.4 intake.
When is the scheduled release date as I have cash in hand for one.
Is it a shorter runner(like the reichard racing) as with my n20, fuel puddling is a concern for me, so I need a short runner like the RR.
Price?

 

Schedule is any day now. Bob's working hard to get them all ready. Unfortunately he has to finish the whole first batch cuz we're all waiting cash in hand.

Runners are reportedly just about 9-11" depending on how you measure. They're a lot like the runners in my intake but they enter into a bigger box and have better entrances. You can use one of the setups I've been working on for the HPS intakes. twin 90deg cone discharge foggers, one front and one back through the wall of the lower plenum pointed upward, one for each bank of cylinders. Above 3K rpm there's about zero chance of puddling any fuel.

Or if you're going to keep the shots pretty big (minimum 150, 175-200 ideal) you can do the spray bar setup on the bottom cover. Best part of that one is it's totally invisible. It'll require a little fab work and more lines but it's wicked. I had trouble finding the spray bars. Ended up tearing apart 2 big block plate kits for the prototype. Prototyping also exposed the requirement for fairly large shots. You fasten each F/N bar pair to the bottom cover aimed at the runner inlets, one front and one back running parallel to the long axis of the engine. Toss in the right jets for your shot and go nuts. I saw spattering of the fuel charge (simulated with water) in testing on the vacuum jig with less than 75hp jets front and back and 100hp jets seemed to be ideal. But, that isn't any good for the 4.6's since most cap their hits on those at 125-150, so I didn't submit it to HPS for production. I'd be happy to help you work it out if you want.

 

the blower pulley i bought was suppose to make 10 pounds of boost on a 4.6 so i was thinking that will be good for 8 on the 5.4 since its stuffing the air into a bigger engine.

also for people with vortech or procharged 4.6's thinking about this swap one plus side to the 5.4 engines is that they have a 8 rib set-up instead of the 6 rib set-up.

can u say less belt slip

 

Here's a little of whats been going on...

Motor pulled (again)
Suspension upgrade
Fuel sys. redone return type - internal 255lph / external T-Rex
H/E pump mounted
100mm idler and tensioner pulley installed (no pic)