spray
 

okay, all the basic mods done, and im thinking about doing some spray. First off, do you guys even recommend this? Obviously i will barely use it, but could it ever **** up my engine?? Second, what is the best kind to get, brand wise? From what i hear a 150 wet shot is the way to go. Any inputs on spray at all will be appreciated...thanks

OMG, there are a lot of loaded questions there! You will get LOTS of opnions, but I only speak the truth - LOL

Sure, nitrous is awesome. If you want it, get, just make yourself an expert. You can ruin a motor in seconds, this is why you need to learn as much as you can and have the proper setup. If done right, your motor can last for many, many miles. BUT, keep in mind, with every mod, comes risk. I have seen cars with super chargers with blown motors and even watched a kid two years ago drop a motor on the track after a cam swap. There are no guarentees.

Brand? Phew...lots of opinions there, but here are my thoughts.

If you have plans for a larger shot, say over 125, I would go with nothing but an NX wet kit with all the bells and whistles. Expect to pay $1500 to $2000+ by the time you are done. This would include a complete kit, all the fancy gadgets, fuel pump, injector upgrades, purge, warmer, gauges, etc... Nitrous get expensive over a 150 shot. Yeah, and don't forget the chip and custom tune you will need.

If you want to play in the 75 - 100 range, then get the Venom-1000. For well under $1000 you can have a really nice setup. Or, the Zex dry kit. In fact, for less then $600 you can have a Venom-1000 w/o a warmer and just run it on the stock tune. It is designed to run that way especially at about an 80 shot or below.

Let's not get into the dry vs wet argument on which is better. There is no answer. It all depends on what you are trying to do. Nitrous is inherently safer at lower shots and the dry kits work just great in that range.

be sure to check out some of my threads in the Power Adder section.

Very well put........I might do a 75-100 shot next year due to the high miles on my car.......Oh yeah speaking of that milage..... and wear and tear on your engine before you use nitrous can play a factor..i'm not a expert in this but i'm sure MT's#1Customer can elaborate on this.

Does nitrous shorten the life of a motor? I suppose. But it also depends on how much you use it to. IMO, with an old tired engine, nitrous might be a better idea then a blower. Either way, the motor is gonna quit at some point
and I would feel better spending a few bucks on nitrous rather then big bucks on a blower in that case.

I've heard the same reasoning about the hign mileage. How many miles would have to be on a motor to be like taking a risk with a blower in your opinions? I currently have 45K on it, and am looking for a blower. If I cant do it sometime soon, I've thought about nitrous... how many more miles can I put on and still be relaatively safe with a blower?????

At 45k, you are good to go. When you start getting close to 100k, I think you need to say to yourself "look, I got a car with 100k miles on it so it ain't worth anything, so if the motor blews, who give's a crap I'll just get a new one." If you have that attitude, then blow or spray that biatch.

You may want to have a compression check at least on a high-milage car to save yourself some grief or have the motor re-built.

I'm looking into a new forged bottom end from MMR :confused: ? I think thats it. I know it is already built with forged internals and such. I'm assuming this would be best rather then build up my exisiting block, installations would be sky high i think. Say I did get a new block with the forged internals, and maybe a new cam to go along with it. Does this pretty much make it somewhat of a new engine??????? especially if I already would have headers, TB, CAI, etc. all the smaller bolt ons. Am i right here, or am i waaayyyyy off? :confused:

buying a new nuilt block, is alot better, and less of a hassle of forging your stock one http://modularpowerhouse.com/product...db87603bcf3e16, but for all of this, nitrous, tune, block installation, blah blah blah everything involved, is gonna give your check book a workout, might as well buy a blower and stick with 400 hp on the stock block

Thats definately a plan, especially while a daily driver. But thanks for the info!

yeah, I was talkin to a buddy, about it, people may have 700 hp, lots of money into it, built block etc, but he loves his relaiable 400 hp daily driver, i think thats the best route

Buy the NX Plate Kit. Its the only fogger system avaliable for the 4.6 2Valve right now. The plate distributes the spray so much better than a dry system or any nozzle type system. With a nozzle type system the power come on very strong at first but then it will fade off as the rpm's rise. With a plate style system it will come on a little softer an really makes the motor come alive as the rpm's rise. That way its better on the motor and it lets you have better traction at the initial point of spraying it. I am running the 100 shot on mine and I do have better traction as it first starts to spray but the car revs so fast that it loses traction very quickly. Its kind of like making them spin in the rain; at first the car wants to move but then it loses traction. This is only a problem under 40 mph though. At speeds faster than that it is a monster. If you have suspension upgrades then you probably wont have as much of a problem.

No it wont hurt your motor if you use it like it says in the manual. Buy all the safety stuff you can put on it and get a tune for a completely safe system. I have had mine on the spray for going on 2 years now with no problems and my motor runs like new with 65,000 on it now. I am pretty meticulous about changing the oil and everything though. ZEX doesnt do what it says it does and they use cheap materials. I have no experience with the Venom system but I think ill stick with what I KNOW works and keep the NX. Buy the NX kit. Look at the kills list and I dont even have it tuned...... :eek:

I've never heard this before, how does it distribute better when the lower intake is where the problem is? :confused: I see no reason to go with a fogger over a nozzle at ~ 150 shot. I'd change in a heartbeat if I was convinced it was a better way to go. BTW if you have traction problems, fix the problems , don't slow the car down. :D I launch on a 150 shot on drag radials and usually get low 1.6 60's with a best of 1.58 on M/T DR's :)


Jay

wow JayC those are awsome 60 foot times

It was a huge difference between the nozzle and the plate. Granted I had a ZEX nozzle which is crap. But when I changed to the plate is was very obvious that the car was faster using the same jets. Keep in mind that I havent had a tune with either system. If you have a nozzle type system with a tune then it might run just as well, I dont know. But I have run both types with no tune and the plate system is much better in terms or average power (SOTP) and it doesnt jerk the engine hard when it sprays. Yea I know I need more suspension mods or some 10.5's but I dont have money cause im in college. :( I just dont really race people from a dig unless they are in a POS ricer and they wouldnt win either way.

dumb question whats a dig? :confused:

Dig= racing froma dead stop.