mike sweeney

I am thinking about ordering the Accufab Plenum and 70mm throttle body. Anybody have this combo on their car and how do you like it???

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2004 Torch Red GT
Flowmaster Am.Thunder cat back, SLP Mid Pipe
Steeda Underdrive pulleys
3.73 gears
Diablosport Predator tune
Grille Delete and Mach 1 spoiler
Rear Wing delete
Mustang Tuning Shifter
Bullitt Handling Kit

WaterDR

I have the C&L Plenum with the 75 mm TB. All of these combos pretty much work about the same. You will net about a 10 - 15 hp increase, so it is not something that will throw you in the back seat. The car will hit red line easier and will have better throttle response. It is also pretty easy to install.

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Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump

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madmatt

I wish MT could carry the C&L stuff cause id rather not spend 4 bills on something that will only give me about 7hp. Its pretty and all but not THAT pretty. Im going to get one of the combos one day though.

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WaterDR

Matt:

The independent data that I have seen really shows all of these combos pretty dam close no matter what brand is used. You do need to use a 75 mm TB with the C&L Plenum, however, as it works the best. The others seem to do well with a 70 mm TB.

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Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump

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madmatt

Yea I also read that Accufab updated their plenums bore size and that the newer ones work best with the 75mm. Dont know how true this it but, hey Mustangtuning...hook us up with some C&L

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cronin49

I have the same setup, and my car pulls like a MOFO in 4th gear right up to redline to about 125 miles per hour. Much better throttle response too.

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Performance - 373's, Magnaflow catted X, Magnaflow Mufflers, C&L upper intake, Accufab 75mm TB, Steeda CAI, Superchips Tuner 1725.

Appearance - CDC Light Bar, Grillcraft Upper and Lower Grills, SS Mesh Inserts in Hood and Side Scoops, Bullitt Fuel Door, Billit Shorty Antenna, Windshield Wiper Deletes, Bullitt Gearshift Knob and Bezel, Hollow Point Door Pins and Valve Stems, Various Billit Aluminum Interior and Engine Dress Up Items.

2003 LASER RED GT CONVERTIBLE, PREMIUM

mike sweeney

Thanks for the info, I have also read that all of the plenums that are out are very close in performance. I am considering the Accufab for its polished finish. I think it probably looks the best

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2004 Torch Red GT
Flowmaster Am.Thunder cat back, SLP Mid Pipe
Steeda Underdrive pulleys
3.73 gears
Diablosport Predator tune
Grille Delete and Mach 1 spoiler
Rear Wing delete
Mustang Tuning Shifter
Bullitt Handling Kit

madmatt

I know it looks the best, but I just cant seem to warrant spending like 50 bucks extra for the shininess. Oh well, we'll see when I get there.

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midnightblueGT

i have heard a rumor that if you go with a 75mm tb and plenum your car might have problems idleing? is this true at all??? i am looking at a bbk 75mm tb and c&l plenum. has anyone had their plenum smoothed out kinda like a port and polish inside??? i now someone that would do it for free... would it be worth it to have swirls??


thanks

WaterDR

This is something that I have personal experience with. The combo that you have selected is perfect for the car. Don't look back. However, there are a lot of idle issues after doing the swap....no matter what combo you choose.

It seems that 99% of the problems are caused by one of four problems (in order of probability):

1 - The TPS gets damaged during the swap. It is sensitive and is VERY hard to remove. Consider buying a replacement ($25.00) and don't bother with the old one. It will save you time and aggrevation.

2 - Dirty IAC's that don't seem to bother the stock setup, rear their ugly head after the swap. As a precaution, clean the IAC while doing the swap. Why not...it will be off anyway. To clean, spray the inside liberally with intake cleaner that is marked on the can that it is approved for TB's. Let it soak for about 15+ minutes.

3 - Incorrect base idle setting. The TB will be set from the factory. But, sometimes, the setting is not right. It is sort of ludicrous to think that a company can set a idle screw on a TB from 1,000 + miles away and think they will get it correct all the time. If you are interested and run into a problem, I have a procedure for correcting the the base idle.

4 - In some cases you may need to replace the IAC. Ford has updated these a few times and most likely the one on your car is of the old design.

Hope this is useful to you.

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Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump

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WaterDR

Ported and polished? I don't see this helping much at all on a near stock setup.

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Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump

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PhoenixGT

Are you guys sure about the 75 mm TB? I've been told thats too big. I, too, like the looks of the accufab duo, but with a family of five, 4 bills seems almost unreachable. Have also heard that Accufab is the best, but most people seem to run C&L or BBK.

WaterDR

The size TB that you need depends on the plenum you choose. The C&L works best with the 75mm.

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Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump

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xcler8

I have also heard that you NEED a dyno tune if you go with the 75mm TB and Plenum....A/F ratio gets really messed up....any experiences?

madmatt

Well, as I dont have any experience with them, ill give you my point of view.
The plenum combo is pricey, and doesnt offer the gains that one would expect from the cost, but to me, its good because I dont plan on nitrous, or any forced induction so it is something little that will give me some great gains.
About the issues: Ive heard that people have the issue of the hanging idle. There are some fixes for this, but I dont think its anything to worry about other than an inconvienience. Cost is also an issue to some. To me, its stupid to spend the extra 100 or so dollars just to get the shininess of the accufab. As stated above, some of yall have house payments and kids to feed so to me, this mod might need to be done in steps as I , the highschool kid, plan on doing it. Im going to buy the plenum, and use it with the stock one for a while until I recoup the 150 or so bucks to buy the t/b. Most people dont notice too much of a difference with the bigger bore t/b and no I dont believe there is an issue with the 75mm bodies. You really just need to see what you want from your car. For those who want a big return for their dollar, I dont believe this is the mod for you, since for about 500 dollars more, you could have a nitrous kit more than capable of a 12 second car. Good luck, and some sites sell combo kits that help save you some hassle and a couple bucks. Good luck yall, and thanks to those who provided some personal experiece. Sorry so long.

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WaterDR

I have never heard this and doubt that it is a problem. I have seen a lot of dyno numbers with cars with this setup and don't recall any problems.

The C&L MAF kit, however, is a big problem with leaning the a/d.

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Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump

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madmatt

Yes I forgot to mention this. Most people dont tend to need a dyno tune as sometimes theyre cars are running a little rich from the factory. This mod might just bring you into a better ratio itself.

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xcler8

Thanks again,...honestly this is some of the best tech advice I have ever gotten on ANY mustang forum...no bashing, or ranting...just good advice from experience...

This is turning into a great forum....

02wt5sp

I went with the accufab 75mm and the trickflow plenum(alot cheaper and not much different) and it does idle a little rough, but other than that no prob. Alot better throttle response, and 1/4 mile improvement

madmatt

I have to agree, this forum is a no b.s kinda place and I find that a lot more questions get answered here than the other forums im with. Good to finally have a good one.

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2000 STEEDA

Very good info! I have a 75mm TB on mine and it had idle problems too. Not bad... but enough to aggrivate. One thing that helped me A BUNCH was reseeting my TPS to a better setting. When I put the meter on it, I was only getting .94.... when I set it to .99 I began to run MUCH better - idle included.

madmatt

Yea I believe the stock tps setting should be about .99 to 1.00 so maybe thats causing some of the others problems with idle.

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03BullittClone

Boy, howdy. I have not seen any other site that answers questions in such a no b.s. manner. You don't have to dig through pages of "well, what color is your carpeting?" like other sites.

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