How to get 400rwhp???
 

I think I'm going to leave my car n/a until I buy a new block. I have been thinking that 400rwhp is a good number. Any suggestions on how to get there?

So much easier and cheaper to just slap a basic Procharger,Vortec,Paxton kit and be well over that and safe with a good tune.

Otherwise your looking at cams,ported heads, full bolt on's etc... and still with a stock short block you won't be there.

exactly.


WAY cheaper to just get a supercharger kit and a tune.

nitrous is the absolute cheapest route...

but for 400 RWHP on an otherwise stock motor? (except a tune)

Id think that would take a lot of juice to make a figure like that. Too much given the basically stock engine.

100 shot will put that car around 370-390 and mid 400 torque...guy has a 3 valve

I always forget how much of a difference the extra valve makes on the 4.6.

Well crap.... Nevermind. I guess I will just go with the supercharger because I really don't want to do nitrous.

Actually full bolt-ons (LTs, intake) , cams, heads, and a tune can net you veryyy close to 400whp and you'll easily beat any SC/TC 400rwhp car because of the full power band.

The 3V also can handle it N/A as long as you don't go with some extreme cams or something super stupid.

at 5x the cost.

get the blower, call it a day.

Yea I think doing it N/A would get to costly.... So back to the S/C.

I don't much like blower cars myself (yes, despite the fact that I own a turbo car and a blower car). That said, you want fast and cost effective, a supercharger is it. I think you'll have a great time with that and a set of upgraded brakes.

don't overlook the brakes. I don't want to hear about you killing yourself because you had more go than stop.

Yea I'm looking into getting the Edelbrock E Force and I'm actually upgrading my brakes for my birthday. A gift from my wife. I'm going to go with Baer rotors and some Hawk pads.

Get the front and rear 14" kit. If not you're just wasting your money on those gay decela rotor kit.

Get some Hawk HPS pads and just make sure you break them in so you don't crystallize them.

And BTW you'll need a caliper compressor tool from Autozone or O'Reilleys because the rears have a special mechanism that has to be compressed and turned.

I myself would much rather go with a KB kit than the E-Force, or even more so a ProCharger but to each his own. Never liked the lower power limit of Ebelbrocks stuff. Meanwhile with the KB you can go as far as the car can handle.

I made up my mind to just the Baer brakes already. The E-Force can get me as fas as I feel I need to go. They have some cars that have gotten up to 600hp and I don't think I need to be any where near that.

on pad selection, look at EBC yellows. They're easier to live with than Hawk's and don't squeal and last longer.

appreciate the insight red... I'll check that out now

Ohh and if you get the Baer/Hawk set-up get the pads from Lethal Performance and the rotor set-up from LMP Performace. Both are the cheapest and have awesome shipping and service.

What stock short block 3v is making 400rwhp n/a?

I have seen the 3v cars get near it, but never over 400rwhp with a stock short block. Sure with high compression pistons its been done, but I have never seen or even heard of a stock compression/stock short block doing it.

I didn't necessarily say OVER 400rwhp, just very close (meaning 370-380+ to the rear wheels). Sorry.

But, even so thats a helluva lot of horsepower with a beautiful ass power curve when compared to slapping on a Procharger and losing low-end power, or losing top-end with the twin-screws.

Yes, it is more expensive but I'd much rather have a bad ass N/A motor to work with when I decide to go with FI.

Livernois Stage II heads with a Stage 2 blower cam and THEN adding on a P1 or D1 would kick ass. Talk about intimidation factor. The lope of the cams plus the whistle of a P1 would make me roll up my window and turn away if that pulled up next to me at a red light.

Ya the powerband would be nice but that will cost alot to achieve 400rwhp n/a...Like said already a s/c would be the cheaper way to go about achieving 400+rwhp...Although you will make more than 400rwhp running the stock pulley most likely with a s/c.

That's what I am saying lol. And by the time you get the motor setup for alot of n/a power your cams would not suite boost and you start over again there.


So pick a place you want to go and stick with it.

With only 281 inches to work with you're relying on an optimized motor and very high rpm to make anywhere near 400 to the tires NA. With a twin screw you'll have the power from just off idle all the way to redline. If you only want 400rwhp with a twin screw you can do it on a stock motor. See the Saleen setup for S197's.

I would only use a centrifugal in places where you're limited on packaging space and where you can't use a turbo or a twin screw.

Yea but all you have to do is trade the cams for a set of blower cams and ta-da you're done. You already have high-flowing heads for FI and also LTs so you can use a smaller pulley for the SC, but yet make more power than most people running a bigger pulley.

Efficiency. Cars suck in the first place so why make it even worse by just slapping on a SC? That would be like doing cams without doing LTs. You're just restricting the power but going the cheap way out.

What? I am confused by the last sentence.

I was thinking the same thing, but I know what he meant... I think

Putting on a SC with stock cams, stock heads, maybe LTs, stock intake (only used if not twin-screw) is putting it in its worse situation. In order to get big power it means you're going to have to put in a smaller pulley and put more stress on the SC and the other belt-driven devices.

Versus if you have a set of good heads, a blower cam, an aftermarket intake, and LTs you could put on a SC and leave it at stock boost but still make big power.

If you're going to put money into the car then I don't see why you'd go the cheap route to get power versus doing it right.

Thats what I meant by efficiency. Stock heads, cams, and manifolds are going to kill any FI system.

Idk, I mean sure it's expensive but it also makes a huge difference. I know TONS of people who just slap on a $4,000 Procharger kit and say ta-da, but thats nothing special.

Versus I know one guy with stage II livernois heads, stage II blower cams, kooks LTs, and the C&L intake manifold making close to 550hp with a p1 at only 6psi (i believe). That to me is way more badass of a car versus just a stock motor with a SC slapped on it.

If you want a badass car for cheap go with a 100-shot of nitrous and bolt-ons. Otherwise I would want to build the motor before just slapping a SC. Idk. It just seems boring to just slap on a SC. Versus doing n/a first and then going for FI if you need more.

Yeah I slapped a p-1sc and made some awesome power...and then I did the built transmission/ built engine/blower cams/ trickflow heads/ kooks exhaust/ kenne bell 2.6...and let me tell you that was not cheap at all...Yeah it's a bad ass car but not a budget build by any means...

IF your looking for 400rwhp and don't have 10+grand to throw at your car then just buy a procharger, novi, or a vortech blower on the car and call it a day.