Trick Flow Cams
Is anyone running these cams or have any input on them? Thanks Bubba
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Did they finally release cams for the 2v?
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(stage 1) 1,500-5,000- 226/230 dur@ .50, .550/.550 lift
(stage 2) 1,800-6,500 - 234/234 dur @.50 .580/.580 lift That is the spec's I copied off another post on a different forum. They are saying the stage 2 are more of FI cam I believe I read the LSA is around 114. The cams are designed to work with there heads. You can't use them with stock heads without notching them. |
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51802001/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51802002/ Not a bad price at $450 for the pair. |
What I had no idea they had finally released the cam's. Thats cool I am gonna check them out.
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i cannot wait to get their head/cam combo. i plan on doing this sometime next semester if i make enough money during school
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I really like thier stage 2 specs. but I am worried about the PVC. I dont want to have to flycut the pistons. A couple of people have said that they will work and some have said no. .550 lift is not a problem but .580 maybe.
I have heard nothing but good about the new heads so I dont see why thier cams wouldnt be any different. Might wait a couple of months and keep checking on the net for more updates. |
I don't see why you would have any problems running them. The stage 2 are very close to Comp's XE270AH: 234/238 & .550 @ 113LSA, and they are almost identical to Crower Stg 2 PI SC cam: 234/234 .581/.581 @ 114 LSA.
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Originally Posted by TUFF 4.6
(Post 423173)
I really like thier stage 2 specs. but I am worried about the PVC. I dont want to have to flycut the pistons. A couple of people have said that they will work and some have said no. .550 lift is not a problem but .580 maybe.
I have heard nothing but good about the new heads so I dont see why thier cams wouldnt be any different. Might wait a couple of months and keep checking on the net for more updates. |
4 Attachment(s)
Well I bite the bullet and got a set of the Stage 2 cams with the spring upgrade.
My engine youst to like like this Attachment 17272 Now it looks like this Attachment 17273 I have a PP Typhoon Intake on the car, I pulled it off to port and polish it for a little more air flow Attachment 17274 I have been die grinding on it for two days Attachment 17275 I should have all the grinding done tomorrow and start with the valve springs. Hopefully it will be worth all the effort. |
Have any problems with that manifold yet? I heard of many nitrous guys blowing them out. And the power numbers were never very good from what I saw.
And I must give you a thumbs up for painting the block Ford Blue. I have yet to see a 2v block painted Ford Blue. |
I think the intake got a bad rep. being made in China. I noticed a big difference the car after it was on the car. Its been on there for three years. There was plenty of meat left on the intake for porting. The intake should have been ported before I put it on but I was lazy. I have run 3 bolltles of nitrous tho it and have had no problems yet. The numbers I seen were about 24 to 27 hp.
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makes me want to bite the bullet and get those heads!
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Well after grinding on the intake for 3 full days and fighting them sumbitchin valve springs and double lock keepers, I have both cams in and chains on. Got everything else clean and with any luck, it might run tomorrow.
I will post up a vid when done. |
Finally got my pig running after a couple of small leaks. It sounds and shakes great to me. Heres a link
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_MOV00385.jpg I have to say that is one of the biggest pain in ass jobs I have ever done but it was well worth it. |
Absolutely gorgeous engine bay.
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Originally Posted by TUFF 4.6
(Post 425992)
Finally got my pig running after a couple of small leaks. It sounds and shakes great to me. Heres a link http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=MOV00385.flv
I have to say that is one of the biggest pain in ass jobs I have ever done but it was well worth it. |
Sounds good, now we just want to see what kinda power they make :salook:
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I thought I was the only one obsessive enough to re-do all the plumbing in AN and braided hose. Well done. There's about 2grand in fittings in there.
You could try taping off the mating surface of the heads this time and finishing the rattle-can painting of the block. I'm also confused... why are the feed lines for your fuel rails going directly into that aux tank where the battery used to be? Or am I missing the important part of that view? |
Sounds really good. Making me miss my car. I wish it wasn't apart right now.
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Thats hot...
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4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
(Post 426152)
I thought I was the only one obsessive enough to re-do all the plumbing in AN and braided hose. Well done. There's about 2grand in fittings in there.
You could try taping off the mating surface of the heads this time and finishing the rattle-can painting of the block. I'm also confused... why are the feed lines for your fuel rails going directly into that aux tank where the battery used to be? Or am I missing the important part of that view? Attachment 17177 Attachment 17178 Attachment 17179 Attachment 17180 |
Thanks for all the coments guys. As for the tune question, we only have 2 tuners in the Richmond area. Depending on who you talk to one of them aint worth a shit and the other one is worse. All the other tuners are 100 miles north, south, and east. I would like to take it to Fastlane Motorsprorts down in Benson N.C. Its got a Preditor 93 tune on it now. Might have to put it on a trailer and take it down there, hopefully in the next couple of weeks.
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that's really inventive. Good job. Never thought of cooling the fuel like that.
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Any developments?
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Originally Posted by GraphicNature
(Post 429124)
Any developments?
1) The rpm range has moved up to about 4000 vs 3000, where the motor starts to come alive Big Time!!!. The Trick Flows made a HUGE difference in power at 4000 rpm's and continues to pull hard up to 6000 where I let off of it. 2) I lost some bottom end torque, but with the 410 gears its only a small lost. I think 430's would be a perfect gear with these cams. I would not even try these cams without at least 373's. I have a 5 speed, with an auto you might want to call Trick Flow and find out how much stall you would need. I would think maybe 2500 or 3000. 3) I had to raise my idle speed about 200 rpms in order to get it to idle. A tune would problable take care of this and may not have been needed. 4) The sound and shake of the car is awesome. 5) I gauge everything by how the car drives and feels. I dont have any proof with numbers, but these things were worth every cent! and made a HUGE difference in the Butt-o-meter. I will post up a sheet when I get it tuned. These things PULL HARD !!!!!! |
The amount of work you have done is incredible! I will definately be getting these heads over the winter to go with my stage 2 cams.
Incidently, my tuner setup my idle to run around 950 rpms. It will idle at 600, but it really rough and dies a lot. |
Originally Posted by WaterDR
(Post 429221)
The amount of work you have done is incredible! I will definately be getting these heads over the winter to go with my stage 2 cams.
Incidently, my tuner setup my idle to run around 950 rpms. It will idle at 600, but it really rough and dies a lot. I want a set of those heads too!!! |
You and waterdr are doing some work with the 2v.
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fix the injector delay so it shoots the gas on a closed intake valve and your idle will clean up a little and you can set it back down to about 700. Stage 2 cams always seem to need that done. Mine did.
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