I was very, very close to buying a TR-6060 when I found these guys http://www.thedrivenman.com/Ford/Tra...ns/Clutch.html and I thought maybe I could help some of you out with this info. The owner Gray is freakin' awesome. I was going to buy a TR-6060 from D&D Performance that comes in a complete kit so you can just bolt right up but the kit is $3,999 and clutch for $1199 and that spelled OUCH for me. I found the website above and they will build up your Tremec 3650 with carbon fiber parts and steel good for 700RWTQ, which is stronger than the TR-6060, for cheap and Warranty the tranny for 24 months!! That's nuts!! They also make their own clutches to their own specifications and their clutches are better than many of the other clutches on the market. For $900 bucks I got a steel billet flywheel and a dual disc progressive engagement clutch that is totally shimless which is SICK. The dual clutch plates will hold 900 rear wheel foot lbs and engage progressively instead off both at once which is murder on a tranny. Now, if you absolutely want a 6 speed then go and get the TR-6060 as there is no better 6 speed out there for your Mustang and it's rated at 700ft/lbs.

Here's a break down of what I got...

Got a Tremec 3650 from them with all carbon fiber components rated at 700RWTQ and I got the dual disc clutch with steel billet flywheel all for $3200!!! SICK!!!


Right now I have a 2008 Mustang GT converted into a Cobra showcar running all BMR racing components replacing the entire frame with tubular BMR racing. The tranny and clutch is above. The engine is bone stock running 15psi from a procharger at 515RWHP and 445RWTQ. I have 14in Wilwood Brakes in the front and 13in in teh back.

I'm currently looking for a shop that will rebuild the bottom end of my motor in the Jacksonville, Florida area...anyone know a good shop? I want to be able to run this motor without fear of blowing it up from the power I'm making now on the stock engine. Any help is appreciated.

Does anyone think that running 600HP on a bone stock motor is safe? Anyone know what these motors are rated at factory? Thanks!!

 

forged pistons and forged connecting rods since you're running boosted, less chance of blowing your s**t up and you could probably run higher boost with that and you will probably need to either port or get better cylinder heads and whilst you have it open why not throw some better cams on?

 

I figured everyone would come back with the forged crank, forged connecting rods and pistons and I was expecting to hear someone say 8.5:1 compression since I'm boosting hehe. I'm already running 600BHP so I wont be doing any cams ($899) or cylinder head work ($1200+ easy) aside from roller rocker arms and heavier springs to protect the engine from smashing a valve at high RPMs. When I do the engine work I will be putting a metal intake on that picks up another 100HP with my setup and dyno tuning. The issue with adding too much power is now you have to start redoing a lot of things that were probably already done. If I did the head work and cams and intake I'd be well into the 900-1000hp range and that means the whole drive train would have to be done to support that and I dont think my rear 285 tires would be very happy either so that means new rims and wider tires and a beefer rear end. I'm extremely happy with the power I make now and if I do the minor head changes above and the intake I'll be well into the 700+RWHP range which is easily supported by my current setup. I do plan on going with a forged crank, forged rods and forged pistons.

Also, I think the best way to do your bottom end, after doing some research, is to buy a completed short block 4.6 iron block that comes with forged components and is blueprinted and balanced and you can get those for under $3000 all day long. Then you stick your current parts on it and you're good to go.

What do you think?

 

You should have got a built TKO. It's cheaper, the bellhousing is not integral w/ the trans (so you can run a scatter shield), much stronger, easier to work on, etc. Plus if you plan on powershifting, don't bother. Unless there has been major surgery done, I will tell you right know that trans hates it.

 

This is a completely race built TR-3650 and while the bell housing is integrated and you cannot run a scatter shield the benefits are as follows. With the TKO you need to run a remote shifter which is pure 100% garbage when you are shifting and it will never feel right, your 2-3 shift will be crap everytime. Also you'll need a new bell housing if it doesnt come with one and you'll need a new shifter and drive line. If you are running quarter miles and you like to hang out at the track all day then you're right get something with a scatter shield. Now, if you are a street racer and daily driver like I am go with this built up TR-3650 that is a direct replacement and is rated for 700ft/lbs. Remember this 3650 is not stock and is all carbon fiber and steel on the inside so unless you are running more than 700 rear wheel ft/lbs you have nothing at all to worry about whether you power shift or hot lap or whatever you want to do and with the progressive dual clutch plate your tranny will shift soft as a babies bottom and you'll get some slip when you shift instead of the beating you get from a dual clutch plate where both plates hookup at the same time. Really it's all about what you want to do and I highly recommend against the TKO's because of the remote shifter which you will never be happy with.

 

The TKO shifters for the S197 cars I've seen weren't remote, as they're attached directly to the trans. The stock shifters are however, as the attach to the body/trans and then use a arm to actuate the gears. Unless you are using a shifter for a 01-04 car and adjusting the reach from the base, you are using a remote shifter. That's probably one of the major problems w/ the new platform.

 

Now that I agree with for sure. The new setup being remote is garbage and I haven't heard anyone say they are happy with it and the TKO. Now, are you saying you can use a 01-04 shifter in a 05-09 Mustang and it'll work as a direct shift versus the remote shifters they sell you like Steeda etc? In that case maybe a TKO would be ok for a 05-09 Mustang but if not then the TKO isnt a good option for the 05-09 and basically you are left with the 3650 or the 6060. What say you? Thanks.

 

Pretty much everyone agrees, don't go past 430-450rwhp on a stock 3v short block or your gonna have some windows made in your block by your pistons.

Don't all the 3v's have aluminum blocks? I don't know why you would want to add the extra weight of an iron block when the stock one is lighter and can hold a good amount of power without worry. Unless you were trying to make 1000rwhp no need to really worry about getting an iron block.

We don't have roller rockers in these cars as the cam rides on a cam follower which is right on the valve.

So you have a tubular K-member and A-arms I take it from what your saying about the suspension on the car. Sounds pretty good so far. You should post some pics of her.

 

Actually after I posted about the iron block I went looking and found quite a few 4.6L aluminum short blocks with all forged parts and/or manely rods for around the same price of $2899 so I figure you got me there, aluminum it is...

Every BMR racing part made is on this car and the entire frame with the exception of the parts that hold the body to the frame have been replaced. Fully boxed and the suspension all together is built to hold 1200+RWHP so I'm good there. My biggest concern is the engine since I havent gotten to the bottom end yet and I'm running 600BHP on a bone stock engine I havent really gotten on it at all and actually, truth be told, I was really worried during the dyno runs...hehe...I'll get her there though...

The pictures, if they get uploaded ok are as follows.

The brakes are Wilwood 14" slotted and cross drilled up front and 13" in the rear. There's a picture of her at the 2008 SEMA Las Vegas auto show featured next to the guy from the show PINKS Mercedes to the left of her. She started life as a 2008 GT and now is a full on MACHINE. Cobra body kit, procharger blower, BMR everything, 20" deep dish rims (285/30ZR20 Nitto tires), 3.73 rear end, pro dual plate clutch with billet steel flywheel, Carbon fiber TR-3650 built to 700RWHP, aluminum drive shaft, drive shaft guide and catch and for the interior I have tons of gauges, a DVD/Bluetooth/Navigation head unit and 1500 watts of stereo in the trunk and speakers all the way around. The only thing I have left to do is the bottom end of the motor and I'm done for now...hehe....

 

We don't have frames on these cars. They are a unbody setup so the frame per say is part of the car. You just have some tubular a-arms and K-member and other BMR suspension pieces I take it. Its a good looking car. Not my style with all the cobra pieces, but its a good looking car.

 

Again, every BMR racing part was put on the car and if you look underneath the entire under body is red with BMR racing. I also had parts fabricated to help stiffen up the car and had it built up to withstand 1000+RWHP, they told me 1200RWHP, just in case in the future I go crazy with it. They told me the only parts that are stock as far as suspension goes is the parts that hold the body to the frame so I can only go by what they said.

I was going to keep it a stock looking GT with rims and a wing but SEMA in Las Vegas wouldnt let me in if I did that and after we put the Cobra kit on they gave us the booth next to the guy from Pinks so I guess they were pretty happy...lol

I actually wanted somewhat of a sleeper so that I didnt get harrassed by cops or become the target of a car jacking etc. Now everywhere I got people are coming up to me asking about the car so I guess I'll have to be a target for now. Plus, the car is so loud that everyone thinks I'm trying to race them even if I'm just getting up to a 45mph speed limit. Oh well, I can't complain and hopefully I wont get too many tickets... Hey, at least it's not Arrest Me Red!!!

Post some pictures of your car!!

 

I bet you could run it as direct, you just need to be REAL creative bending the shifter stick. As far as the TKO, check out the Hurst version of the sifter. It's still remote but it only mounts to the trans, not to the body like the stock Mustang shifter. But things can be made easier if you move some dash components and open a shifter hole on the floor where the trans shifter base is.

 

take it off roading then let the mud cake on, no one will try to steel it

did you leave the cobra kit on? cuz that thing is a magnet for criminals

 

I know it's been a while since I posted but I wanted to follow up with your question anyway. Yes I did leave the Cobra body kit on and YES it is a magnet for criminals I agree which does suck! I feel like I'm constantly babysitting my car. I do have a 2 way paging remote on it but with all the "show" on the outside it attracts way too much attention and had I build it from the ground up it would be a "normal" looking GT with some minor modifications like lights, rims and blinkers etc...

 

this is exactly why i am sticking with my SN95. i love direct linkage shifters. i don't like remote linkage sloppy crap.

 

I hear that. Apparently Hurst has come out with a direct linkage shifter for the Stang and the TKO-600 but I can't confirm that I heard it from a tanny guy though. My shifter is billet but I have an AP-3650 tranny built by these guys (http://www.thedrivenman.com/Ford/Tra...ns/05-09k.html) with their progressive engaging dual clutch and billet steel flywheel. They also carry an all billet shifter for the TKO-600. Check them out.