car cranks forever
For a while last fall and so far all this spring since i have had my car outa storage its had an issue starting. my car is a 1999 GT with the only mods being o/r h pipe and slp lm2 cat back. The car runs perfect once it is started. I used to be able to turn the key and it would crank a couple times in fire right up, but now I turn the key and it will crank and crank and crank and crank and then start up. Somtimes it even cranks so long that it gets overloaded with fuel and I get a big backfire like you would hear on a damn lawnmower! Any ideas of why this may be happening?
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Bad A/F ratio? Could be so lean that it has problems starting up. <---Not likely. What's more likely is that you have a battery with crap cold cranking amps, so basically anytime it's cold/er you'll go through this. Doesn't sound like a dead or dying battery, but I bet you've got a summer only type of battery with really crappy cca.
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you know thats what i initially thought, and now that you say it im thinking that could be it. I bought my car last summer from a guy in south carolina so maybe they did get a summer type battery or whatever. I just figured the battery was going bad and not giving the starter enough power.
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Yeah, when the battery is dying it's usually a pretty clear noise. But if it helps calm your nerves, grab a multimeter (if you've got one) and just check it.
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i would clean the IAC check the plugs and then move on to bigger things like the battery. i hope you know what a strong battery sounds like good cheap way to see is to turn on the dome light and if it dims a lot while cranking than your battery is taking a shit...not holding its charge overnight or something.
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I think it's a good idea to check those, however, I don't think that's the culprit. If it were the IAC it'd likely idle funny, and if it were the plugs you'd hear it miss a cylinder...Doesn't hurt to check, though.
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Originally Posted by King
(Post 399980)
I think it's a good idea to check those, however, I don't think that's the culprit. If it were the IAC it'd likely idle funny, and if it were the plugs you'd hear it miss a cylinder...Doesn't hurt to check, though.
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What a coincidence, neither do I. And I think a multimeter is just a handy thing to have around, that is all.
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Originally Posted by King
(Post 399984)
What a coincidence, neither do I. And I think a multimeter is just a handy thing to have around, that is all.
Fuel filter is another thing that is on the chopping block. if you havent changed it in a while i would do so now. also if the IAC is sticking it wont start, FYI. |
He said it starts, just takes him a while. He also said it runs fine after it starts, which leads me to believe that it's not the IAC. But still a good idea to check and cleanup regardless. Fuel filter isn't a bad idea...
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i replaced the IAC actually last summer, and the TPS was replaced at that time as well. The plugs were replaced right before I bought the car so within the last 10k miles. Fuel filter probably does need replaced though.
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Multimeter tells you how much batterly you have left?
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if you replaced it with a vato zone one than i wouldnt have much faith in it. my car used to hard start some days and i would cycle the starter for about 20 seconds before it would fire up. i ended up just putting in new plugs, new fuel filter, new OEM IAC. i have a supercharger so copper plugs are cheap fuel filter had 15k miles on it so it had to go and the IAC gave me problems before with sticking. i dont know what fixed my POS but the car fired right up after all of that stuff was replace. the only thing i didnt replace was my battery and i should have because that some bitch is old as fuck.
good luck with finding the culprit. |
Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid
(Post 400000)
Multimeter tells you how much batterly you have left?
your typical multi-meter will only give you the batteries current voltage reading. |
Originally Posted by stanger00
(Post 400008)
no, an OCV meter will tell you what voltage and CCA's you have left in a battery and give you a message telling you if the battery just needs re-charge or has a dead cell/replace message.
your typical multi-meter will only give you the batteries current voltage reading. |
a good reading on a battery is 12.6-12.8 volts.
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Originally Posted by stanger00
(Post 400023)
a good reading on a battery is 12.6-12.8 volts.
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Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid
(Post 400063)
What if it's not reading that and how would you fix it? What could it do? My car doesn't have a problem starting up.
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