Hey guys, forgive me for asking a childish question, but I'm new to this stuff. How much horsepower can the 4.6L 2V (found in my 2002 GT) handle with the stock engine block? I have plans to put a blower on there, so I'm hoping for around 450rwhp eventually. Can it handle that?

 

about 400hp, once you go over that you have to watch it.

 

Safely it can handle 400rwhp. Yes it can handle 450rwhp, but I would have some money stashed away for a built motor because it is a ticking time bomb with that much power on the stock bottom end. The key is all in the tune. You want to keep a 11-11.5 a/f ratio, and you don't want to have more than 16-17* of timing. 50 more horse power is not worth $6000 for me.

edit: I will be going to PSI Motorsports in 2 weeks to get a lentech street terminator auto transmission installed(rated up to 700hp), and a PI multidisk converter installed =D I should pick up around 30-40 hp with the new converter and be in the 400rwhp mark.

 

so what do I need to buy in order to insure my engine being able to handle 450rwhp?

 

A built engine...

 

and then the question is, why stop at a paltry 450hp? time to reach for the upper 700's

 

yup. 450 is it. Its hard to get there. U need a blower and almost evry bolt on

 

good rods and pistons, check wth the guys at Modular Performance as they sell some kits that are priced-right 248-348-1725 or www.modularperformance.com

 

far from the truth, s-trim with smaller pulley and intercooler and you're there, no bolt ons


NA stage I/II cams, longtubes, intake, and 150 shot and you're close to there also

 

the stock engine block is good for well over 1000rwhp, it's the rotating assembly that blows, the stock rods/pistons are risky to use for over 400hp but i've seen several survive at 500+ and many blow up at alot less than that

with h beams and good forged pistons(not probe) you're easily good for the upper 700's or more but it's a good idea to get a forged crank instead of the iron one just because they're so cheap

 

what would you say the limit is of the iron crank?...assuming you have other forged internals.

 

if yer already in there might as well do the crank anyways

thats kind of like building a well engineered building on a poorly laid foundation. just doesent make sence.

 

im running about 12 psi and 400 rwhp with 12* of timing through a automatic still on the stock block 25k miles and still ticking

 

i'm running full bolt on's with longtubes and 150 shot through an NX plate on the stock bottom end

 

I believe 600rwhp is the max on the stock iron crank.

 

Thats what I like to hear, spray on brother spray on.

 

scared to death i'm going to blow my passenger side floor pan out though

 

I was Putting 413 to the wheels and I knocked a hole in my block big enough to put your fist through and 7200.00 Later I got it a strong motor so be where when these guy tell you 400 they arn't kidding you....

 

i had 400 one time then 5.6.7 and 700's and car runs beter than ever i havn't been on here in a while but i am a single turbo 88mm car running 20psi and i want more,,, but i have arias piston eagle h-beams and an eagle forged crank a built tko 600 and an explore rear end, the HP's get expensive

 

the above statements are all so similar for a reason... they're basically 100% right.

If you plan on a blower and you can't be happy with less than 450rwhp then you absolutely had better buy yourself a bottom end that's built for the power. I've seen enough stock mustangs rattle the bearings out of the rods (which is immediately followed by a fist size window in the block) with 360rwhp and less to have learned. If you want it to last and be fast then build it right and maintain the **** out of it or just forget about it.

The stock crank isn't worth keeping if you're going over 450rwhp since by then you've either set the clock on your time bomb and will be replacing your engine entirely soon or you've built a motor correctly for running >400rwhp through.

It's not like it magically comes unglued after 450, they just beat the **** out of themselves and if you get a bad sip of gas or a hiccup in the tune or any number of things go the slightest bit wrong and you've got a crate full of broken **** under the hood. Some guys like Stanger00 are right at the ragged edge of what's sensible. He knows how to fix his own **** too. If you don't then you need to be more cautious and spend more money up front.

Save time, save money, build it for boost, then run boost. After you've got that power and it's reliable, come back and say thanks for warning you.