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| Modular 4.6L Tech For all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
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#2 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
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Installed pix:
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Only problems to report are the first joint on the steering shaft just BAAAARLEY contacts one of the primaries while turning. It's not knocking on it by any means, but you can hear it slightly tap two or three times during a turn. This is most likely due to my changed up front suspension geometry(offset rack bushings) I tried rearranging the bushings a little bit and got a little bit more clearance, but I think it'll be OK. I don't have a gigantic flathead pry bar, so I may go pick one of those up and just give the primary a little flat spot and resolve the issue. The other problem/issue, is the EGR tube(you can kinda see it in one of the above pix). Apparently I twisted it a bit while putting it on the new connector. ![]() I don't see any signs of leakage, and I tested it and the tube was not blocked off...so who knows. I'll block it off it becomes a problem. Not really a problem, but I did wedge a big flat head between the floor pan and the drivers side collector flange. It wasn't making contact, but I wanted just a little bigger tolerance. All in all, after all the horror stories i've read on the internet about fitment, I feel I got lucky with these as they certainly seemed to "fit", but just getting them up there was the frustrating part. Another thing that popped up while doing all this bullshit was that my power cable from the front to the back where my battery is was hitting on the drivers side header. ![]() I relocated the cable, drilled a hole, used a grommet and some split heater hose and zip ties and took care of that issue as well. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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BMC Member# 03209
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have you felt any gains or will you be gettin dyno?
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#4 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
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I probably won't DYNO the car, but it certainly has alot more top end. It's not one of those "I think it has a little more power", it's "Good God! This thing really pulls up top!
"I've got a wideband 02 on the car and I'll just monitor the A/F's and make sure things will be OK. I haven't tried the nitrous yet with the tubes, but i'm sure it'll feel GREAT!! |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
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I have been running an H-pipe, but the shorty PYPES H-pipe for a 100 bucks was a good deal(especially since it's stainless steel), so I ordered it yesterday.
I know the X pipes probably make more top end power, but I like the old musclecar sound of the H-pipes. I'll take the 2-3hp hit from the H over the X ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Administrator
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Sounds like alot of problems with your install. Are the headers on the starter at all because it looks like they are sitting on it almost.
__________________
Dustin 2002 GT Mustang 5-Speed Drag Radials,Sprayed,Powershifted ![]() ![]() WOOO HOOOO! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
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Alot of problems?! Are we reading the same post? I guess the headers didn't install themselves, but it went on fairly well. Having to massage a couple area's isn't that big of a deal at all(to me at least). I've read about people not even being able to get them installed or having to heat parts of the header to make it fit.
As for the header primary and the starter, there is about a 1/4" space, or maybe the width of a pencil. It's alright. |
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