cam install questions
 

when i fill the cylinder up with air, will the piston push to BDC?? do i need to move the piston to TDC (exactly TDC!!! which could be a pain)

and with the timing chain tensioners....i read an article that they are spring loaded, or something like that....and you need to stick a paper clip in them to keep them retracted....whats the deal?

also, when removing the timing tensioners, is there a special way to relieve the pressure other than just un-bolting it?

also, how do i know which cam goes where....do they have preset grinds for each side? I figure i will just find out when i take the cam gears off....but just wondering, see if anybody can answer my question before i will just figure it out myself.

with the tensioner's once you get them out and want to put them back in you have to compress them(I did this by pushing the tensioner down against a table with one hand and used the other to slide a paper clip into the small hole on the side of it, this holds the spring compressed, once you get it back in place in the car pull out the paper clip to release the spring


as for tdc, I just used the air compression tool to keep the cylinder up.....be sure you have a big compressor though because if it loses pressure and it falls your f'd

also the cams should have left hand side or and right hand side wrote on the somewhere

thanks a lot! yeah, i have a 26 gallon compressor with 2hp....and an automatic setting, so if it losses pressure, it will just build up again. So i figure that will not be a problem.

yeah, i haven't looked very closely at the cams for a marking....but if they came marked, that would make everything a lot easier....what cams did you install that were marked?

im assuming the VT's have to be...i will check after i post this.

thanks for the info on the tensioners...so just unbolting them is okay to do....you don't have to compress them first or anything?

yeah, i noticed that one is marked "left" and one is marked "RT"

so left being driver side and right being passenger.....correct?

Just unbolt the chains and turn to TDC each time. A lot easier then worrying about a compressor.

i think i am going to use the compressor....

...i don't have anything good to use to rotate the crank anyways.

All you need to rotate the crank is a ratchet and 18mm socket.

oh, so just use the crank pulley bolt? that would make sense.

Yep.

I'd pull the spark plug from each cylinder, then as you're changing the springs, set a long wooden dowel down the hole resting on the piston of the hole you're working on, then run that cylinder up to TDC by turning the crank and do that spring set, move down the line and do each. Air is neato but I like immovable objects holding my impossible to un-screw-up parts into their holes.

Move the piston to TDC for each cylinder that you are working on. Air is good but it only takes one valve to drop then off comes the head. With the piston at TDC the valves cannot fall all the way in the cylinder.

you can do it any way but the air compressor was very easy to do just dont get ahead of your self and move to next before moving the air compressor.....almost did that once

yeah....i think i will be able to do it....i'll attempt to move the piston to TDC....yeah, because if the piston starts traveling towards BDC, then who knows if the compressor can push enough air to fill the area before disaster.....but i figure that would only be a problem when first charging the cylinder.


i think tomorrow morning the timing chains are coming off...and the old cams will be removed....and i got the tool to use the air....and i will move it to TDC.....do the best of both worlds.

dude if you turn the cylinder to Top Dead Center than there is no way that it will move to the bottom it will stay in place. For example: There are times where i have to tune deisel engines to support an 250-300 amp load. now thats a huge load since most planes only require 60-80 amp full load. there are very specific requirments i have to adhere to. all i'm saying is that the engine will stay at Top Dead Center once you move it there, there is no chance that it will fall into the cylinder. i suggest you follow everyones advice on moving the cylinder to top dead center so there is no chance of you dropping a lifter. Good Luck on everything. i think the most challenging part is degreeing the cams that you bought so you dont get piston to valve contact.

i been drinking and this is one of my 3 nights off. the G/F sent me home because im drunk.

Good advice for being drunk. But like he said, theres no point in doing both, youll just be wasting time.

I used air in which case the air will hold the valve up, not the piston. Either way is effective though...

HAHA dont remember this so much... most of the guys here are sayin there will be no chance of a screw up if you move each cylinder to TDC.

okay new question:

what is the best way to get the lifter back on? bleeding the lash adjusters, or compressing the spring?

im thinking if i bleed the lash adjusters, there would be a possibility of the lifters un-seating themselves when i start cranking her over for the first time.

The recommended way is to compress the valve spring. Now, the other way is to put them on before you put the cam on. Also, lifters/lash adjusters are the same thing so I'm assuming you mean the rockers/followers.

yeah....the rockers back on.....

i think i am just going to compress the lash adjusters.

oh, and does anybody know the torque specs on the cam gears/spockets?

The last procedure I saw said to put the nose on the valve and use a screwdriver to pop it over the lash adjuster. I like the valve spring compression method... less to break that way.

http://www.modulardepot.com/diagrams/cams.gif
http://www.modulardepot.com/diagrams/valvecover.gif
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The springs and lifters dont have anything to do with each other right now. The lifters need to be bled, after you bleed them you shouldnt need to compress anything to get them in. After you slide the lifters back in, you put the cam on and bolt that down. Make sure the engine is timed, THEN install the rockers. After everything is timed, turn the crank by hand a number of times and make sure everything is good.

I suggest you read an old thread of mine, has a lot of good pictures in it and other good info. http://modularmisfits.com/forums/vie...er=asc&start=0

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1301/8877/172892.jpg THATS how you turn the crank for TDC.

....yeah....i didn't do the 9 o'clock position....which could have been horrible....but i don't think i had any problems, and im pretty sure my crank was very close the the 9 o'clock before i took the chains off anyways.

but yeah, couldn't find a spec for those cam sprokets.

I think its 80 or 90 ft. lbs. Go buy the Haynes manual.

holy crap almost forgot i had that!

this is how i did it, it was quick and easy