Cams = Winter Project
 

phase 1....research....i have posted this in the "installing your own cams" sticky thread, but wanted to make it more noticeable.....and didn't know if i was hi-jacking that thread or not....but everybody seems to be very knowledgable on this site, so figured this would be a great place to gain some knowledge.

so here is what i posted in the other thread

"im thinking about doing the cam swap for a winter project....i am semi-experienced, i've taken an engine rebuilding class and got an A in it, and am one semester from getting my associtate's in automotive technology.....im thinking that i can pull off the cam install, but i am nervous to say the least. Just because the mustang is my baby....and if i f*** something up, its just going to be more time and money....

but i bought a winter car, and would have all the time in the world to complete the install....so im thinking it could be done.....not to mention that i work at a ford dealership, so if worse comes to worse, i could just see if one of the seasoned veterans could help if i needed.

but to my questions.....

what type of valve springs? do i need new retainers and all valve spring components? Where can i get the special hose that screws into the spark plug hole? Ford makes a specialty tool to compress valve springs while the heads are on the block, but its $100....and i saw another valve spring compressor at sears for $15....which would be my best bet? should i just go ahead and spend the $100 on the tool that would make the retainers easier to access?

...sorry, i have a lot of questions, im sure i will come up with more later....but just hoping some of you can help me out, i want to do all the research i can and make a "game plan" before diving in.

....also, i watched Csledd's movie, awesome movie btw, professional, but do you have to drain the P/S fluid and coolant?.......drain the engine oil too??"

oh yeah, and what about underdrive pullies....i have heard that the higher revving cams and u/d pullies could be a problem??? any input on that?......i noticed CSLEDD had them on his stang still after the install.

I cant answer any of your questions...but FYI..Csledd is a girl...

oh...haha....sweet.

my bad...im new! :o

Its cool....just hang in there, a lot of people have knowledge on this subject. You'll get the info you need.

....so do people post on this forum often...or is that place dead?

bump.

its not dead, but more lively during the week...

k... here comes the answers.

Cams aren't hard to do. If you've taken classes then you know about torque specs and sequences and the basics of pulling and putting. It's not really hard at all but it does take a good bit of time to do the springs. I'd buy the expensive tool. I have one of the 15 dollar dealies and it broke almost as soon as I took it out of the plastic. I also had to modify it so I could access the locks after compressing the spring. PITA. The rear springs are really a bitch... take your time and don't get mad.

Comp springs should be fine.. just make sure they match the lift of your cams.

The special hose for the spark plug hole... I'm pretty sure those are a normally stocked item at summitracing.com. Call them up and they'll be able to help.

Drain only fluids that you need to. You should be able to just move the PS reservior out of the way. I can't see any reason to need to drain the coolant or oil for this operation. Do plug up the oil drain back holes in the heads though... don't want to drop a lock down there. :)

thanks...i think that answered all my questions...


except for the underdrive pullies...

and the "roller rockers"/"lifters"/"folowers" whatever you want to call them, do you put those on before putting the cam back on....or can you pry them into place?

Some places say you must put them on after the cam has been torqued down while others say you can put them on before the cam. I say if you can, put them on after the cam has been torqued down. If you can't do it that way, the other way is fine.

You must put the roller-finger-followers (rockers) on after the cam is torqued down. If you put the cam on with them in then the torque on the cam caps won't be right.

You should be able to bleed down the lifters (lash adjusters) in a vice and that will give you the clearance to get the rockers to pop over easier.

UDP's should have exactly zero interaction with the cam install. Even if you do rev higher, the UDP's will spin the accessories more slowly so they're not going to over-rev. As for the other angle... I've seen hit and miss charging issues with some cars thanks to the alternator pully. I give about a 1% chance of it being any manner of an issue and a 99% chance of not having any negative effect at all. Have your tuner bump your idle a 100rpm higher if you have trouble with charging at idle and see if that helps.

good information, thanks a lot, i apprecitate it!

so the lash adjusters are easily removable and can just be bled by compressing them?

once you've got the cam and followers removed the lifters (lash adjusters) just pull right out with your fingers. From everything I've read and done, you should be able to bleed them out with a vice. I'd recommend calling around to VT, DSS, MMR, etc.. and finding out what their preferred method is.

After you've bled them and you finish up and go to start the car expect a bit of rattle while they pump up. For that reason I'd leave the oil filter on as it's loaded with oil that will help pressurize the oil system quicker at startup. If you replace the filter then load it with oil prior to spinning it on.

EDIT: This is the instruction I've received... make sure to check the shop manual. It'll be more precise.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...spagenameZWDVW

is that the tool??

....yeah, looks like that would be pretty easy to use to remove the springs....and then once the springs and cam is installed, use it to compress the spring the little bit needed to get the follower to slide on.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/patrio...t-9904-2v.html

that spring kit?

do i need new seals, retainers, and keepers?

I wouldnt bother with new retainers or keepers on a newer car like yours, but i know some people will say do it. I dont know how your valve seals are so i cant say.

I say stay away from that kit. I've heard bad things about Patriot springs (some people even filed lawsuits) so I'd go w/ a company that has a better reputation (the big three cam companies and Manley).

okay thanks for the input

how many psi do you put in the cylinder to hold the valve up? i have a compressor that works up to 150psi....but figure thats way too much.

what cam are you going with? I went with the VT N/A cams and they have the spring kit to match it on their site too. Also on there you can buy just the springs which is all you really need to upgrade.

i think i am going to go with the VT stage II N/A's

and the Manley Nextek springs

Your car holds allot more then 150psi when its burning fuel. I use 120-150psi as thats where my compressor stays off at. Any lower and it kicks on. Its more important that you dont lose pressure and drop the valve down.

yeah....true that

if you drop a valve, you are pretty much screwed.

do i need a crank turning nut?

So what is this air tool that holds the valves up? It is NEEDED? Or highly suggested? Does it make the swap easier? Where do you buy the attachment to put on the air compressor?

You need the correct sized socket for a socket wrench to turn the crank to TDC on every spring you swap.

The air tool you can actully get this from autozone or discount autoparts for cheap. It has a threaded side that goes in the spark plug hole, then the other side has a connection for a air hose. You use it to fill the cylinder up with air so the valves don't drop when you swap springs out on them.

I still would put the motor at TDC on every cylinder when you swap spring in case you leak so much air it drops one the connection comes off etc... it happens. This way the valve will drop, but hit the top of the piston and not fall all the way in. Trust me do this step for the extra safety.

whats it called so we can get one?

I forget the name, go in and ask they should know. Its was cheap though, i want to say 10bucks or less. You can use a compression tester and take the gauge off and hook it up to your compressor. Thats what i use.

Just turn the motor to TDC each time.

thats what i used on my install of these cams last winter