zex booster inline fuel pump

super96stang · 03-08-2007, 09:28 AM

I ve got a 96 mustang gt with 88k. Iwas thinking about getting a zex 100wet shot and I wanted to get a better fuel pump. So I saw the zex booster pump. Iwas wondering how would I hook that up and were would it go. Also would it be easier than a walbro pump.

stngmn96 · 03-08-2007, 12:16 PM

I am not exactly sure about the Zex kit, but the others I know of mount along the car near either the tank or just upstream near a protected and solid part of the frame. I have heard pro's and con's about these as I have looked into them myself. However, by the time you factor in wiring and labor between the boosters and just replacing a fuel pump with a bigger and newer model, I believe it turns out to be 6's in time and effort. I replaced my fuel pump with a Walbro unit for about $75 and due to my schedule had a good local shop charge me just labor and walked away with the total cost only being about $160-170 for the pump, four seals and grommet, and the labor.

*03gtmustang* · 03-08-2007, 02:44 PM

Just put in a walbro.

spike_africa · 03-08-2007, 03:18 PM

its super easy to drop the tank and install a new pump.

stngmn96 · 03-08-2007, 03:30 PM

Very true. Grab a buddy, a flat piece of wood, a jack and some ramps and have at it. The tank is only held on by the two straps and a couple bolts . I recommend running the tank to at least a 1/4 full before working on it to help with weight and spillage.

spike_africa · 03-08-2007, 05:44 PM

get it to E trust me its easier.

stngmn96 · 03-09-2007, 12:03 AM

I agree. I had to run my car to the red line when I was to drop it off to the shop as they requested and had to bring a 5 gallon can to give me gas to get to the station. That was fun just driving everywhere and anywhere I could to run it out. Spike is right! Ideally if you can drive it to the red line in the car do so, aslo don't forget to disconnect the reset switch in the trunk to help relieve the pressure in the lines. Good luck.

Wheat · 03-09-2007, 06:32 AM

I'm also for replacing the in-tank pump. The best advice I can give is to always, always replace the filler neck seal. If it tears when you reinstall the tank, you'll find out the next time you fill 'er up.

stngmn96 · 03-09-2007, 07:40 AM

It was actually my grommet to the filler tube which ripped and prompted me to change mine. I figured, if I have to fix the seals and pull the tank, might as well do the pump.

03-08-2007, 09:28 AM	#1 (permalink)
super96stang 1996 stang Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 24	zex booster inline fuel pump I ve got a 96 mustang gt with 88k. Iwas thinking about getting a zex 100wet shot and I wanted to get a better fuel pump. So I saw the zex booster pump. Iwas wondering how would I hook that up and were would it go. Also would it be easier than a walbro pump. __________________ Mods:70 mm pleumn,tb,cai,steeda udps,4:10's,and superchip programmer,mac catted h pipe,and magnaflow catback.

03-08-2007, 12:16 PM	#2 (permalink)
stngmn96 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: West Haven, UT Posts: 164	I am not exactly sure about the Zex kit, but the others I know of mount along the car near either the tank or just upstream near a protected and solid part of the frame. I have heard pro's and con's about these as I have looked into them myself. However, by the time you factor in wiring and labor between the boosters and just replacing a fuel pump with a bigger and newer model, I believe it turns out to be 6's in time and effort. I replaced my fuel pump with a Walbro unit for about $75 and due to my schedule had a good local shop charge me just labor and walked away with the total cost only being about $160-170 for the pump, four seals and grommet, and the labor. __________________ 1996 GT 4.6 (bored .030 over) FRPP Shorty Headers PI Head and Intake, Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged Rods, Cobra Crank, Mach 1 flywheel, Steeda Timing Adjuster, Steeda Underdrive pulleys, BBK Catted X-Pipe, Flomaster 3 chamber exhaust, SCT X2 programmed and dyno tuned, 3.73 gears, UPR Cold Air Intake, 70mm FRPP Throttle body.

03-08-2007, 02:44 PM	#3 (permalink)
03gtmustang Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Northern Va Posts: 3,241	Just put in a walbro. __________________ D&D Auto Detailing -Dan

03-08-2007, 03:18 PM	#4 (permalink)
spike_africa Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Orlando,Florida Posts: 7,205	its super easy to drop the tank and install a new pump. __________________ Dustin 2002 GT Mustang 5-Speed Drag Radials,Sprayed,Powershifted WOOO HOOOO!

03-08-2007, 03:30 PM	#5 (permalink)
stngmn96 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: West Haven, UT Posts: 164	Very true. Grab a buddy, a flat piece of wood, a jack and some ramps and have at it. The tank is only held on by the two straps and a couple bolts . I recommend running the tank to at least a 1/4 full before working on it to help with weight and spillage. __________________ 1996 GT 4.6 (bored .030 over) FRPP Shorty Headers PI Head and Intake, Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged Rods, Cobra Crank, Mach 1 flywheel, Steeda Timing Adjuster, Steeda Underdrive pulleys, BBK Catted X-Pipe, Flomaster 3 chamber exhaust, SCT X2 programmed and dyno tuned, 3.73 gears, UPR Cold Air Intake, 70mm FRPP Throttle body.

03-08-2007, 05:44 PM	#6 (permalink)
spike_africa Administrator Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Orlando,Florida Posts: 7,205	get it to E trust me its easier. __________________ Dustin 2002 GT Mustang 5-Speed Drag Radials,Sprayed,Powershifted WOOO HOOOO!

03-09-2007, 12:03 AM	#7 (permalink)
stngmn96 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: West Haven, UT Posts: 164	I agree. I had to run my car to the red line when I was to drop it off to the shop as they requested and had to bring a 5 gallon can to give me gas to get to the station. That was fun just driving everywhere and anywhere I could to run it out. Spike is right! Ideally if you can drive it to the red line in the car do so, aslo don't forget to disconnect the reset switch in the trunk to help relieve the pressure in the lines. Good luck. __________________ 1996 GT 4.6 (bored .030 over) FRPP Shorty Headers PI Head and Intake, Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged Rods, Cobra Crank, Mach 1 flywheel, Steeda Timing Adjuster, Steeda Underdrive pulleys, BBK Catted X-Pipe, Flomaster 3 chamber exhaust, SCT X2 programmed and dyno tuned, 3.73 gears, UPR Cold Air Intake, 70mm FRPP Throttle body.

03-09-2007, 06:32 AM	#8 (permalink)
Wheat Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 49	I'm also for replacing the in-tank pump. The best advice I can give is to always, always replace the filler neck seal. If it tears when you reinstall the tank, you'll find out the next time you fill 'er up.

03-09-2007, 07:40 AM	#9 (permalink)
stngmn96 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: West Haven, UT Posts: 164	It was actually my grommet to the filler tube which ripped and prompted me to change mine. I figured, if I have to fix the seals and pull the tank, might as well do the pump. __________________ 1996 GT 4.6 (bored .030 over) FRPP Shorty Headers PI Head and Intake, Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged Rods, Cobra Crank, Mach 1 flywheel, Steeda Timing Adjuster, Steeda Underdrive pulleys, BBK Catted X-Pipe, Flomaster 3 chamber exhaust, SCT X2 programmed and dyno tuned, 3.73 gears, UPR Cold Air Intake, 70mm FRPP Throttle body.

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