Need help with check engine light and how to make big hp 96 GT
 

Ok i'm a newb to working on V8's totally dumbfounded.. I bought this mustang last year it is a 96 GT with the shitty heads from my cousin it has 75k on it right now orginal miles.. It has a 4:10 rear, ford racing clutch, BBK CAI, Underdrive pulleys, h-pipe flowmasters..

Here are the issues every since i bought it i've had a check engine light he said it was because of the 02's being unplugged.. I talked to him the other day and he said with the h-pipe flowmasters thier not gonna work right.. Is thier anyway to fix this problem??

Problem 2 is it will run 3/4's warm in the summer with the AC on he said it was because of the pulleys the car never runs hot.. Any thruth anyway to fix this??

Problem 3 is thier is a vacuum hose that he has unplugged if you plug it up it does'nt run has well i think it might be something to do with the CAI or the IM system..

Problem 4 is the dam cig light in the center gets hot all the time..

problem 5 thier is a loud whishing sound might be coming from that hose i can't tell..

I wanna get all this fixed and start really modding this car to go fast.. I know the car has shitty heads but i'm looking to run a low 12sec pass or high 11 what is needed??

I don't wanna trail and error i just inherited some cash and wanna get it done.. I have a low 11sec honda but with the turbo lag it not has fun has the RWD with torque.. I want to build a beast but i want it to be reliable enough to daily drive.. I'm not opposed to any FI or a all motor high compression beast.. Really i've just gotten older and i want torque, a mans ride, not a kid car..

Sorry for the dumb questions just need help from some experienced guys who've been through the trial and error.. I really just wanna do it right the 1st time somebody lead me in the right direction..

thanks for the help..

Also thier is a jetchip that came with the car but he said he took it out because he said it ran like poop.. Should i just resell it, is it worth having??

Also i have eibach lowering springs now the rear just bottoms out bad anyone had this same problem.. I love the way the front sits but the rear has got to be fixed..

K. Mil eliminators should fix the check engine light, thus allowing you to run your o2 sensors (which the car truly does need the information from them) and not get the light. The vac hose? Which one? Anytime there is a loss of vac pressure you are going to have all sorts of issues. The jet chip probably didn't let the car run right because everything else was not plugged in and working correct. Mil eliminators are cheap, easy to snap into the plugs, the o2sensors. As for the whistle, check the silicone parts on the CAI and ensure they are on and snugged up. Your buddy did you no favors with this car, but with a little work you will have it back to running.

if you want to run 12's and you've got money, here's a quick easy way.

Take the car to your local tuner, tell them you want a low 12 second car. give them 10,000 dollars cash. Come back in two weeks. You should see some big changes to the suspension, a built bottom end, ported heads and a nice shiny new blower. Don't forget to have them slap in a 6pt cage so you'll be legal if you break 11.99

first of all if your check eng light is on and you have exhaust work done on the car allready you might need MIL Eliminator kit to deal w/ O2 sensors, there not that much, maybe 40 bucks or something like that. I had an off road X pipe installed on mine and the light came on about 2 weeks later but I was expecting it, the Mil eliminator just tricks the computor so the stupid light doesn't come on for exhaust issues. As far as big power for the slower 2v nitrous is the best bang for the buck, but I personaly don't like the idea of having to refill bottles, I'm trying to save up for a blower, the power is allways there, they just cost 4 or 5 times as much.Pi heads, intake and cams while your at it would be a good foundation. you might be able to get cheap from e-bay or junk yard . most of the cheap bolt ons aern't worth much in the way of power, by the time you bought all the bolt ons and gained 40 horse, you could have just bought a blower and gained a 100 or more

Ford had a TSB for the 96 cooling system since it was terrible. If it wasn't upgraded, that could be the reason why it runs 3/4 of the way on the gauge. However, there are no such thing as accurate factory gauges (except for speedo or tach and even then they aren't that accurate) so get a nice oil pressure and water temp gauges.

Ok where can i buy this k mill eliminator kit??

I'll get some more info when it stops snowing about the vacuum line and what its hooked to the car has been in my garage for a few months..

How big of a shot can i spray safely on this motor??

wet or dry kit??

What kinda times could i expect on spray??

That might be my best route i got a guy at work with a 99 i believe he has been telling me to swap in a motor like his with the PI heads he said they run about 1k used..

What kinda abuse can these motors take in stock form??

It only runs 3/4 in the summer with the AC blasting i was thinking about useing some water wetter with a 50/50 mix and see if that helps any..

So this has nothing to do with the underdrive pulleys??

He also said with the intake in the fender well it effected something..

The o2 check engine light does'nt bother me i just wanna make sure its not hurting the way the car is running or how it would run with FI..

It could be a mix, just the TSB could be a possibility. Also, if the fenderwell intake has a bend before the MAF, that could screw around w/ the readings.

Mil eliminator kit can be found almost anywhere like dallas mustang,brothers performance,steeda, just flip through the ads in a 5.0 mag and look for companies that deal in stang parts. also I've heard a stock bottom end in the 2v should not be pushed any harder than 450hp after that, your on bowered time, i would be careful over 400 (at the crank)