Ok I am about to put these breather filters on my valve covers. Is there anything special I need to do? I ordered one for each cover and one bigger one for where the oil cap goes. So a total of 3 filters. Will this be ok?

On the drivers side I just put the filter on the end of the tube on the cover, then put a blockoff cap on where it goes to the powerpipe. And on the passengers side do I remove the pcv valve or keep it on? It doesnt seem to be holding much oil back and its nearly brand new. So either way Ill put the filter on that tube also, then put a blockoff cap to the pipe coming off the intake elbow. That spot I think is the air check valve? Is it ok to blockoff that valve? And then ill put the last one where the oil cap goes.

Does this seem ok? Will I lose cylinder ring seal by doing this? I currently have oil coming through the breather hoses and going into the supercharger. This must be costing power. I have tried using an oil catch can, but they havent worked well for me yet.

 

You dont have any need to do that because you arent going to vent your block with your setup. go order an oil seperator kit from r3dn3ck and youll be fine. If you are running synthetic oil, i would switch back to conventional oil and do oil changes every <3000 miles. you dont want blow-by.

 

i have a vent on mine, it realeases pressure, and looks cool

 

With a S/C just a oil separator will do. Now if you still had nitrous I would say otherwise.

 

knowing him, hes still probably spraying...

boom

 

heck yea I just got back from spraying a 100 shot on top of the vortech. Pulled 8 cars on a TT cobra.

 

Oil separators and be done with it, same with nitrous.

 

For some reason I have a hard time believing you pulled 8 cars on a TT cobra..must of not been a 03-04.

 

NEVER replace your PCV system with breather filters. If you don't know why just trust me for the time being. You will cause cumulative damage to your motor.

I'll post more later but please for the love of god don't bypass or disable a ventilation system that only works properly 1 way. If you need a blower ready oil/air separator.. let me know! I'll send you a parts list and you can build the damn thing. Don't cause problems by messing with a needed system.

 

but whenever I try to put an oil seperator on it, the hose always sucks itself closed because theres so much vaccum. It needs a hard line so it doesnt suck closed but ive had no luck. I tried rigging it different ways, but always end up with some vaccum leak and it doesnt run as well. I dont like those ones from home depot. I want a nice one if I get it. Where can I find some of that nice clear hose with the coiled spring inside so it wont suck closed? So what does it do when you delete the breather system? Thats what im trying to figure out. Ive seen other guys have breather filters on their cars. Is it ok to put the filter on where the oil cap goes?

 

Ok... sorry for the lag. I do sometimes have to work for a living.

The following applies to NA and power-adder cars. The PCV system in general (for street cars) and the implementation of it in our beloved modular motor family is not something to be casually torn asunder. When you tinker with it you can seriously affect your AF ratio, effective octane, bottom-end seal life, and all kinds of other issues.

First and foremost, the implementation on our modular cars causes the air ingested into the intake from the PCV side to be replaced mass for mass by air removed from the intake pipe. This means that the PCV intake air is metered by the MAF. If you pull the breather pipe and cap off the hole in the inlet snorkel then you've immediately caused a severe lean condition and a massive vacuum leak. Now the PCV inlet air isn't being metered but it is coming into the mix. The inlet tube provides a source of filtered metered air.

Now, the PCV side is another problem entirely. The valve is a good idea. With one instead of a straight pipe an intake manifold backfire won't blow every seal and gasket in the car out the back. BUT, it allows; in over-head cam cars 1000x as much, aerosolized oil to be ingested into the engine. Very few people realize how much oil OHC cars can whip into the air but it's substantial and has a dramatic effect on the effective octane of your fuel supply as oil directly reduces octane. The good part is all the blow-by and acidized oil vapor is forcibly removed from the bottom end. This gives a sure and solid freeway for seriously corrosive chemicals to be evacuated.

The use of filters on race cars is fine. They're not run for transportation they're run for fun. When your ride breaks it sucks a lot more than when your toy breaks.

I do make PCV oil air separator kits. I sell them for what they cost me to build. I also provide parts lists to anyone that wants to make one for themselves (which is fairly easy). The first kit I designed was copied all over the place and it's flawed... facts is facts. I blew the first rev on materials selection. The rubber hoses in most retail kits will collapse and lead to the aforementioned massive vacuum leak. I spec and use only AN lines which have proven to be reliable for extended use and expensive.

Just using an oil catch can isn't going to do the trick. If you spend a lot of time in boost then you need a 2 stage filter setup, which I have a design for and it's not much more than a single stage. You also have to size the filters properly. Most people use too small of a filter. It has to have a duty cycle that matches the size of the motor and amount of boost or it'll just soak completely inside 300 miles.

There is one downside to my filter. You have to be a big boy and empty it every week or two depending on your daily mileage.

 

The hose collapse issue is fixed by using properly sized teflon core braided line. Simple as that. They're a bitch to assemble but I can do them. I guarantee you can't suck my lines closed (there's a quote for you). Simple as that. When you delete the breather system you accumulate acids and vapors in the crankcase. That causes seals and gaskets to corrode and go bad, bearings and friction surfaces are eroded by increased acid content in the oil and you lose the negative pressure in the crank case (very little with our systems but in other designs it can be significant) which can increase hp if only so slightly as to be a matter of technical semantics.

 

Seriously... look at this thing. That's blingin' pimp style.

 

that one looks pretty nice. How much does it cost you to build them? You have a parts list for a dual setup on my car? I may do it or have you build it.

 

it costs just over 120 bucks for the single filter setup. add about 25 for the second filter.

I know it's expensive but, if I can get a more substantial order than one at a time (I'm working on Blakes right now) I can drop my cost down to 100 bucks clean for the single and 130 for the double.

Here's your parts list for the single:
3 -6 AN straight hose end
1 -6 AN 180deg hose end
3 3/8NPT - -6AN fitting adapter
1 5micron coalescent/media oil air separator (yes... this is an air compressor part and they're perfect for the job)
1 18" -6AN rubber core braided hose
1 3' -6AN rubber or teflon hose (rubber works until you get really really super duper big vacuum... almost no car should "need" teflon. even you.)
1 -6AN - hose barb fitting
2 3/4"-1" screw type hose clamp
1 3" 3/8" ID thick wall rubber hose (this is a sealer and abrasion guard. DO NOT skip this)
1 Aftermarket upper intake plenum (Professional Products is certified to work.) Or, you can drill and tap your PCV inlet in your stock/C&L/etc... for a 3/8" NPT. It is usually pretty hard to find the tap.

Assembly of the braided lines requires some skill to do correctly. Also, if you plan on using teflon hoses then you'll need to make sure to get high pressure hose ends with the tapered base or they won't seal.

For the dual setup add the following parts:
1 more filter.
2 3/8"NPT - -6AN fitting adapter
1 -6AN coupler (use this part http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku )

The reason I even offer kits pre-built is that most people couldn't assemble a AN line to save their life and I know which fittings to use for what application. I have a prototype blower car design that uses a much more complicated system of check valves to vent the crankcase to the atmostphere during WOT runs with 10lbs+ of boost. That's gunna take a bit to complete but it's in the works.

 

cool, ill see about putting one together on my car today. Maybe I can find the parts around here. ill let you know how it works out!

 

I always order from summit. They have decent prices but the shipping is super fast... at least to here.

LMK if you need actual part numbers.

 

i ran both valve covers to a catch can with a breather on the can. i would drain the can ocasionally. minimal loss even under 15psi and 500rwtq

 

why run the dry side through the can? was that intended to keep the vacuum from dropping too much across the can?