Need step by step help on plugs and wires
 

While I've rebuild a 72 corvette from the ground up, I can't even see any plugs or wires in my 99 GT. (this wasn't easy to admit) Pics would help. My Haynes manual is little help determining what's what.

http://www.bullittarchive.com/1017.htm :beerchug:

well thats that.

So there really are NO plug wires, just the COP. Right? Can the COP go bad and need replaced?

Yes indeed.

Is there a test for the COP?

I am pretty sure that if one goes bad it trips a CEL.

Those directions look good, but my GT looks a bit more crowded than this Bullitt. It looks like I might have to disturb the fuel injection rails or whatever the chrome pieces on either bank are. I hope not. Anybody know?

No, you will not have to disturb ANYTHING. I just changed my plugs for a second time last week. The boots flex right around the rails. Cake job, even for a beginner. http://www.mcmmotorsports.com/smilies/nice.gif

you unscrew the set screws on the COP's and just lean them out. The base of them is a LONG rubber boot with a metal conductor coil (looks like a spring) down the middle of it. They bend well. You'll need a real spark plug socket and a 6" or better extension on your ratchet. Remember that these are aluminum heads so use a little anti-seize on the threads when you replace them and DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES over tighten them.

Took me a while to get used to not having plug wires but the COP system is much more accurate than mechanically fired ingnitions and there's no moving parts like a classic distributor. Just remember, there's not much that's functionally different than a old school motor, it just looks different from part to part. Think of the COP's as your plug wires and the crank trigger wheel as the distributor. The injectors just plug into the rail and are held in with rubber o-rings. To disconnect the fuel rail (if needed) just remove the screws that hold it down and lift straight up. Keep a rag under it to catch any spilled fuel.

damn that bullitt intake is nice...