Air/fuel gauge Question. Please help.

Troyzstang · 04-19-2006, 04:47 PM

I need some advice.
I have a 03 GT that's mostly stock and I've just installed a NX wet kit. I want to run a 100 shot spray but I'm concerned about the lean spike. What type of air/fuel system is the most accurate. Please keep in mind I don't know anything about air/fuel gauges and how they actually work

I've been reading and trying to learn but I need to make a decision. I won't test my system without ALL the safety devices installed. This is the last one I need.

Thanks,
Troy :banana:

MattJ · 04-19-2006, 05:31 PM

Has your car been dynotuned with nitrous?

jeredan2003 · 04-19-2006, 07:33 PM

Sorry to break the news to you but your engine is not a 302.....thats what it says in your sig. All 96-06 mustangs come with a 281ci Modular 4.6 engine.

The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.

The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.

Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.

The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?

jjtgiants · 04-19-2006, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeredan2003

Sorry to break the news to you but your engine is not a 302.....thats what it says in your sig. All 96-06 mustangs come with a 281ci Modular 4.6 engine.

The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.

The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.

Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.

The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?

Jeredan pretty much covered it. Get the car dyno tuned or else you'll end up riding your bike everywhere! Also, don't you want iridium plugs for nitrous and not copper??

kcast · 04-20-2006, 12:09 PM

Dyno Jet makes the Wide band commander...great for A/F and datalogging, it also has a nitrous feature on it....

Icefreezen · 04-20-2006, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcast

Dyno Jet makes the Wide band commander...great for A/F and datalogging, it also has a nitrous feature on it....

Thats what I had used on my dyno tune..Wide band for teh win

*03gtmustang* · 04-21-2006, 05:23 PM

Thats whay Im using also.

Spoiled · 04-26-2006, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeredan2003

Sorry to break the news to you but your engine is not a 302.....thats what it says in your sig. All 96-06 mustangs come with a 281ci Modular 4.6 engine.

The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.

The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.

Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.

The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?

You don't need to upgrade the pumps. The PSI with the return style system is fine.

Your reasoning on longer/shorter lines to me makes no sense at all. They are pressureised and going to the nozzle which regulates the amount that goes into the throttle body.

jeredan2003 · 04-26-2006, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoiled

You don't need to upgrade the pumps. The PSI with the return style system is fine.

Your reasoning on longer/shorter lines to me makes no sense at all. They are pressureised and going to the nozzle which regulates the amount that goes into the throttle body.

The reason why we use a longer line is to reduce the INITIAL lean spike. The nitrous is @ 1000psi and the fuel is at 45psi. Which one do you think is going to get to the nozzle first? The nitrous! So by increasing the length of the line......you are increasing the time it takes for the nitrous to reach the nozzle. All this reduces the initial lean spike that is normal for an untuned nitrous system. It makes for a safer setup and maybe better engine longevity.

Read up more about n20 .....

Spoiled · 04-26-2006, 07:58 PM

both lines are under pressure. You can have a garden hose with 200 psi at 50 ft.

YOu can have another one at 50 psi at 200 ft.

They both have static pressure (potential) at the nozzle and thus pushing both pressure through the jetting.

It does not matter because until you put the static pressure into action it is all the same.

Oh, and I have read up about nitrous.

As well, most fenderwell CAI systems have a bend prior to the MAF, hence "Fenderwell" usually a 45 and in my case a 90 degree bend downward prior to the MAF?

Sorry, my opinion, and yes I am using nitrous and yes I have been on the dyno and yes, i have a 3-400 rpm a/f lean spike upon activation and then levels out to 11.5 across the board.

jeredan2003 · 04-26-2006, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoiled

both lines are under pressure. You can have a garden hose with 200 psi at 50 ft.

YOu can have another one at 50 psi at 200 ft.

They both have static pressure (potential) at the nozzle and thus pushing both pressure through the jetting.

It does not matter because until you put the static pressure into action it is all the same.

Oh, and I have read up about nitrous.

As well, most fenderwell CAI systems have a bend prior to the MAF, hence "Fenderwell" usually a 45 and in my case a 90 degree bend downward prior to the MAF?

Sorry, my opinion, and yes I am using nitrous and yes I have been on the dyno and yes, i have a 3-400 rpm a/f lean spike upon activation and then levels out to 11.5 across the board.

:ban: The nitrous isnt pressurized between the solenoids and the nozzle until AFTER the nitrous has started spraying. The n20 takes a slight second to fill the lines. As this is happening, normally the n20 gets to the nozzle first causing the lean spike.

Since you are having a 100rpm lean spike.....maybe you should buy a longer nitrous line....lol

Spoiled · 04-26-2006, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeredan2003

:ban: The nitrous isnt pressurized between the solenoids and the nozzle until AFTER the nitrous has started spraying. The n20 takes a slight second to fill the lines. As this is happening, normally the n20 gets to the nozzle first causing the lean spike.

Since you are having a 100rpm lean spike.....maybe you should buy a longer nitrous line....lol

If you think that a longer line would make the spike go away, do a test and see?

I understand that the line is not pressurized prior to activation of the system. it does not take but nano seconds for the line to be filled either way?

I mena think of it, takes a few seconds why use nitrous. I think that you are hoping that it woudl work.

In reality, i can see what you are saying, but does it work NO not really.

I think that you are hoping it will workl.

The real question is this, Do you have supporting evedience that this works?

jeredan2003 · 04-26-2006, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoiled

If you think that a longer line would make the spike go away, do a test and see?

I understand that the line is not pressurized prior to activation of the system. it does not take but nano seconds for the line to be filled either way?

I mena think of it, takes a few seconds why use nitrous. I think that you are hoping that it woudl work.

In reality, i can see what you are saying, but does it work NO not really.

I think that you are hoping it will workl.

The real question is this, Do you have supporting evedience that this works?

Do you have supporting evidence that it doesnt work????

I dont have an a/f guage. This is simply common sense man. Others have seen a noticeable decrease in the lean spike. The guy who posted this thread is obviously looking for ways to make his car safer on the spray. I am trying to help and give him good advice. If you are saying that a longer line will not make ANY difference upon n20 activation then you just dont understand how it works. Would you tell the guy to use a 6 inch n20 line and a 4 foot fuel line???? Something tells me that a combination like that would blow the motor....

Spoiled · 04-26-2006, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeredan2003

Do you have supporting evidence that it doesnt work????

I dont have an a/f guage. This is simply common sense man. Others have seen a noticeable decrease in the lean spike. The guy who posted this thread is obviously looking for ways to make his car safer on the spray. I am trying to help and give him good advice. If you are saying that a longer line will not make ANY difference upon n20 activation then you just dont understand how it works. Would you tell the guy to use a 6 inch n20 line and a 4 foot fuel line???? Something tells me that a combination like that would blow the motor....

Do you have any supporting it? I don't think either would blow the motor.

You suggested a bigger fuel pump. That is not needed on a returnless style system. Maybe on a return style?

I think that you are a little off on nitrous? That again, is my opinion not to be expressed or condoned by anyone?

Spoiled · 04-26-2006, 08:26 PM

If he wants it safe, the a Bottle heater, Window switch for manual tranny's, FPSS, tune is the best way to get saftey.

Oh and yes, I have all of those as well. I want mine to be safe all the time everytime.

Spoiled · 04-26-2006, 08:35 PM

Not only that, but I am using the NX jetting chart which was way off. We actually have to make the system richer using a larger fuel jet. i am using a 75 shot with jetting of 41/31 which NX states that a 41/24 is the jetting for such.

So if he want it safer as well, well just increase the fuel jet too make it richer.

jeredan2003 · 04-26-2006, 09:10 PM

Why wont you quit trying to upstage me??? I dont care about winning an argument with you I just want to give him some helpful ideas.....

1st: he was asking about how to help a lean spike and he wanted info on a wideband.......not about what size jets you use.

2nd: Im sure he is already aware of window switches and all that. Yes I have all the safety stuff too. As do most n20 users that know what theyre doing.....

3rd: The reason I told him about the fuel pump is because there have been many stock pumps lean out on a 100 shot. This may have been caused from unnatural wear but that is still possible with his car. With n20 you always want to be as safe as possible and make sure you dont take any risks. He needs a tune definately, but if he does not have one then he should at least have a bigger pump on it if he wants to be sure its safe. Dont you agree? Because unless you do a fuel pressure test then you dont ever know if the stock pump is still good enough for the extra load. Like many guys, he may drop in the 125 pills just to beat that T/A down the street.....

I know enough about nitrous. I am not a noob like you with less than 30 posts and I have been using nitrous for awhile. I spray alot an I know how it work. I know what works about it. Dont come on here and try to tell me I dont know what im talking about. Just because you have a puny shot of spray doesnt mean your Jack Roush.......

Troyzstang · 04-27-2006, 03:40 AM

Well gentlemen aren't we feeling a little froggy

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate all the responses & opinions. One thing is for sure ! We all know that safety is everyone's primary concern. With that being said I will sort through all of your of advice and come up with a safe application; or at least try to

One more question for the pros. I'm installing my nitrous gauge in the drivers area today ( already have one at the bottle) and was curious about running the #4 steel braided line. Should I run to the engine bay or to the bottle? Any benefit either way? Also I want the light in the gauge to turn on with the dash lights. Where do I connect power to so this will work.

Thanks again,
Troy :banana:

r3dn3ck · 04-27-2006, 04:20 PM

wire with black w/purple stripe at the rear of the headlight dimmer will give you dashlight activation of the light and the dimmer function IIRC.

One nitrous pressure guage should be sufficient. Run a T from your bottle to the guage or isolator inside the car (#4 AN liine is great) and to solenoids in the engine compartment. Nice and simple. Make sure you have a blowdown tube if you mount the bottle in the passenger compartment or you'll never race on a sanctioned 1/4 mile track.

100shot is a lot for a newb... try a 50 and work your way up. You need to learn how to drive a nitrous car or you'll wreck it or blow the motor. Longer lines from the solenoid to the fogger make for softer hits (not much), shorter make for harder hitting systems. I like dry kits for plastic intake cars and smaller shots but I'm a caution freak.

Wideband AF monitoring is the only accurate way. little guages like the one I use from autometer are only a way for me to tell if something has already gone wrong and they give LED's not numbers so reading it under pressure is not really possible. I only really have it for pretty-light factor.

Any kit on the market right now is generally a good kit if used and installed correctly. Make sure you have fuel pressure safety switch, master arm switch, RPM window switch (3200-5200 is a good window)

Lastly, get a dyno tune done or you will walk home someday when you can't afford it.

Hope that helps clear up the opinion to just what you wanted to know...

BTW... upgrade the fuel pump or you'll hate yourself. SVT Focus pumps are cheap and VERY applicable to this use case.

Spoiled · 04-27-2006, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeredan2003

Why wont you quit trying to upstage me??? I dont care about winning an argument with you I just want to give him some helpful ideas.....

1st: he was asking about how to help a lean spike and he wanted info on a wideband.......not about what size jets you use.

2nd: Im sure he is already aware of window switches and all that. Yes I have all the safety stuff too. As do most n20 users that know what theyre doing.....

3rd: The reason I told him about the fuel pump is because there have been many stock pumps lean out on a 100 shot. This may have been caused from unnatural wear but that is still possible with his car. With n20 you always want to be as safe as possible and make sure you dont take any risks. He needs a tune definately, but if he does not have one then he should at least have a bigger pump on it if he wants to be sure its safe. Dont you agree? Because unless you do a fuel pressure test then you dont ever know if the stock pump is still good enough for the extra load. Like many guys, he may drop in the 125 pills just to beat that T/A down the street.....

I know enough about nitrous. I am not a noob like you with less than 30 posts and I have been using nitrous for awhile. I spray alot an I know how it work. I know what works about it. Dont come on here and try to tell me I dont know what im talking about. Just because you have a puny shot of spray doesnt mean your Jack Roush.......

I have 30 posts here pal. I never stated you don't know what you are talking about. I just pointed out and gave my opinion on your reasoning.

Oh and by the way, I am running a 75 shot soon to be a 100 shot on a Six. So don't tell me I don't know what I am doing. I have had nitrous on my car for about 1.5 years.

I am a noob here because of MCMMotorsports is a friend of mine and value his opinino.

So If that irks you, well fine. Thanks...and i got the first

r3dn3ck · 04-27-2006, 04:52 PM

spoiled, for christ sakes dude.. enough. Fuhqin drop it already. Conversation has terminated and you're not helping.

Fact, jeredan is one of the more respected members here. I have watched his posts and he's giving good info with lots of detail that newbs appreciate.

Fact, you have 30 posts... probably not a good idea to go pissing on senior members until you've proven yourself with more accurate and useful posts. Nothing on you personally... you just got to understand that forums are like family and we're all looking out for each other.

Fact, whatever you are personally running makes two squirts of cold horse piss difference to the conversation. I know some dumb sumbeyotches that run big shots on unprepared motors and think they're smart because they've not blown the motor yet.. I'll also have to give those jerks a ride home someday because they're too full of themselves to see logic and reason. don't be one of those guys... be cool, stay chilled out and respect the people here. Conversely, I know some actually brilliant racers that have blown motors on just a tiny little 50 shot... So, clearly success doesn't always determine the best course of action.

peece owt napolean

Spoiled · 04-27-2006, 05:00 PM

Learn to spell please. That hurt my eyes. Well, is this a place that I cannot give my opinion? If so I will leave and not come back.

He is wrong imo. He is an internet mechanic and that is all. I am srue that he has never turned a wrench to save himself.

That is okay...Mods, just close it would ya.

kcast · 04-27-2006, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r3dn3ck

spoiled, for christ sakes dude.. enough. Fuhqin drop it already. Conversation has terminated and you're not helping.

Fact, jeredan is one of the more respected members here. I have watched his posts and he's giving good info with lots of detail that newbs appreciate.

Fact, you have 30 posts... probably not a good idea to go pissing on senior members until you've proven yourself with more accurate and useful posts. Nothing on you personally... you just got to understand that forums are like family and we're all looking out for each other.

Fact, whatever you are personally running makes two squirts of cold horse piss difference to the conversation. I know some dumb sumbeyotches that run big shots on unprepared motors and think they're smart because they've not blown the motor yet.. I'll also have to give those jerks a ride home someday because they're too full of themselves to see logic and reason. don't be one of those guys... be cool, stay chilled out and respect the people here. Conversely, I know some

04-19-2006, 04:47 PM	#1 (permalink)
Troyzstang Mustangs Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Va Beach Posts: 13	Air/fuel gauge Question. Please help. I need some advice. I have a 03 GT that's mostly stock and I've just installed a NX wet kit. I want to run a 100 shot spray but I'm concerned about the lean spike. What type of air/fuel system is the most accurate. Please keep in mind I don't know anything about air/fuel gauges and how they actually work I've been reading and trying to learn but I need to make a decision. I won't test my system without ALL the safety devices installed. This is the last one I need. Thanks, Troy :banana: __________________ Troy'sToy 2003 Black GT 4.6 w/ NX 100 Shot :banana:

04-19-2006, 05:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
MattJ Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Racine, WI Posts: 10,243	Has your car been dynotuned with nitrous? __________________ 2001 Mustang GT Premium - Mineral Grey

04-19-2006, 07:33 PM	#3 (permalink)
jeredan2003 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 1,788	Sorry to break the news to you but your engine is not a 302.....thats what it says in your sig. All 96-06 mustangs come with a 281ci Modular 4.6 engine. The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot. The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line. Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars. The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you? __________________ 2003 DSG GT 5-speed Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback..... My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

04-20-2006, 12:09 PM	#5 (permalink)
kcast Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 104	Dyno Jet makes the Wide band commander...great for A/F and datalogging, it also has a nitrous feature on it.... __________________ 2004 Redfire COBRA! #917 of 3,768 Mods Borla Stinger Catback UPR Catted X-pipe Steigy Blower/TB/Plenum Port SFPHQ 2.80 Upper LFP 100mm aux idler UPR Short throw Steeda CAI Spec III clutch (i think) Wideband A/F Lowered (dont know what springs) 507rwhp 497rwtq <--old numbers w/alot of belt slip Boost gauge/AFR gauge on A-pillar

04-21-2006, 05:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
03gtmustang Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Northern Va Posts: 3,241	Thats whay Im using also. __________________ D&D Auto Detailing -Dan

04-26-2006, 07:58 PM	#10 (permalink)
Spoiled Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 30	both lines are under pressure. You can have a garden hose with 200 psi at 50 ft. YOu can have another one at 50 psi at 200 ft. They both have static pressure (potential) at the nozzle and thus pushing both pressure through the jetting. It does not matter because until you put the static pressure into action it is all the same. Oh, and I have read up about nitrous. As well, most fenderwell CAI systems have a bend prior to the MAF, hence "Fenderwell" usually a 45 and in my case a 90 degree bend downward prior to the MAF? Sorry, my opinion, and yes I am using nitrous and yes I have been on the dyno and yes, i have a 3-400 rpm a/f lean spike upon activation and then levels out to 11.5 across the board.

04-26-2006, 08:26 PM	#15 (permalink)
Spoiled Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 30	If he wants it safe, the a Bottle heater, Window switch for manual tranny's, FPSS, tune is the best way to get saftey. Oh and yes, I have all of those as well. I want mine to be safe all the time everytime.

04-26-2006, 08:35 PM	#16 (permalink)
Spoiled Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 30	Not only that, but I am using the NX jetting chart which was way off. We actually have to make the system richer using a larger fuel jet. i am using a 75 shot with jetting of 41/31 which NX states that a 41/24 is the jetting for such. So if he want it safer as well, well just increase the fuel jet too make it richer.

04-26-2006, 09:10 PM	#17 (permalink)
jeredan2003 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 1,788	Why wont you quit trying to upstage me??? I dont care about winning an argument with you I just want to give him some helpful ideas..... 1st: he was asking about how to help a lean spike and he wanted info on a wideband.......not about what size jets you use. 2nd: Im sure he is already aware of window switches and all that. Yes I have all the safety stuff too. As do most n20 users that know what theyre doing..... 3rd: The reason I told him about the fuel pump is because there have been many stock pumps lean out on a 100 shot. This may have been caused from unnatural wear but that is still possible with his car. With n20 you always want to be as safe as possible and make sure you dont take any risks. He needs a tune definately, but if he does not have one then he should at least have a bigger pump on it if he wants to be sure its safe. Dont you agree? Because unless you do a fuel pressure test then you dont ever know if the stock pump is still good enough for the extra load. Like many guys, he may drop in the 125 pills just to beat that T/A down the street..... I know enough about nitrous. I am not a noob like you with less than 30 posts and I have been using nitrous for awhile. I spray alot an I know how it work. I know what works about it. Dont come on here and try to tell me I dont know what im talking about. Just because you have a puny shot of spray doesnt mean your Jack Roush....... __________________ 2003 DSG GT 5-speed Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback..... My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new

04-27-2006, 03:40 AM	#18 (permalink)
Troyzstang Mustangs Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Va Beach Posts: 13	Well gentlemen aren't we feeling a little froggy Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate all the responses & opinions. One thing is for sure ! We all know that safety is everyone's primary concern. With that being said I will sort through all of your of advice and come up with a safe application; or at least try to One more question for the pros. I'm installing my nitrous gauge in the drivers area today ( already have one at the bottle) and was curious about running the #4 steel braided line. Should I run to the engine bay or to the bottle? Any benefit either way? Also I want the light in the gauge to turn on with the dash lights. Where do I connect power to so this will work. Thanks again, Troy :banana: __________________ Troy'sToy 2003 Black GT 4.6 w/ NX 100 Shot :banana:

04-27-2006, 04:20 PM	#19 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 6,859	wire with black w/purple stripe at the rear of the headlight dimmer will give you dashlight activation of the light and the dimmer function IIRC. One nitrous pressure guage should be sufficient. Run a T from your bottle to the guage or isolator inside the car (#4 AN liine is great) and to solenoids in the engine compartment. Nice and simple. Make sure you have a blowdown tube if you mount the bottle in the passenger compartment or you'll never race on a sanctioned 1/4 mile track. 100shot is a lot for a newb... try a 50 and work your way up. You need to learn how to drive a nitrous car or you'll wreck it or blow the motor. Longer lines from the solenoid to the fogger make for softer hits (not much), shorter make for harder hitting systems. I like dry kits for plastic intake cars and smaller shots but I'm a caution freak. Wideband AF monitoring is the only accurate way. little guages like the one I use from autometer are only a way for me to tell if something has already gone wrong and they give LED's not numbers so reading it under pressure is not really possible. I only really have it for pretty-light factor. Any kit on the market right now is generally a good kit if used and installed correctly. Make sure you have fuel pressure safety switch, master arm switch, RPM window switch (3200-5200 is a good window) Lastly, get a dyno tune done or you will walk home someday when you can't afford it. Hope that helps clear up the opinion to just what you wanted to know... BTW... upgrade the fuel pump or you'll hate yourself. SVT Focus pumps are cheap and VERY applicable to this use case.

04-27-2006, 04:52 PM	#21 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 6,859	spoiled, for christ sakes dude.. enough. Fuhqin drop it already. Conversation has terminated and you're not helping. Fact, jeredan is one of the more respected members here. I have watched his posts and he's giving good info with lots of detail that newbs appreciate. Fact, you have 30 posts... probably not a good idea to go pissing on senior members until you've proven yourself with more accurate and useful posts. Nothing on you personally... you just got to understand that forums are like family and we're all looking out for each other. Fact, whatever you are personally running makes two squirts of cold horse piss difference to the conversation. I know some dumb sumbeyotches that run big shots on unprepared motors and think they're smart because they've not blown the motor yet.. I'll also have to give those jerks a ride home someday because they're too full of themselves to see logic and reason. don't be one of those guys... be cool, stay chilled out and respect the people here. Conversely, I know some actually brilliant racers that have blown motors on just a tiny little 50 shot... So, clearly success doesn't always determine the best course of action. peece owt napolean

04-27-2006, 05:00 PM	#22 (permalink)
Spoiled Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 30	Learn to spell please. That hurt my eyes. Well, is this a place that I cannot give my opinion? If so I will leave and not come back. He is wrong imo. He is an internet mechanic and that is all. I am srue that he has never turned a wrench to save himself. That is okay...Mods, just close it would ya.