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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 13
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I tried installing those d*mn Bullitt pedals in my mustang yesterday. Talk about a pain in my as. Has anyone else done this yet? I can't get the clutch or brake pedal on all the way. And don't even get me started on the gas pedal. How the hell do you even take the old gas pedal off? I am this close to going out and buying a freakin Bullitt just so I don't have to put those pedals on. Sorry about the complaining but for such a simple task its just not worth it.
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2000 Mustang GT 5 Speed. Steeda timing adjuster, Cold-Air Intake, 75mm throttle body with C&L intake plenum, underdrive pullies, short throw shifter, aluminum drive shaft, 4.10 gears, Pro chamber exhaust no cats (who needs em) :glasses2: |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Simi Valley, Ca
Posts: 717
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Go on Stangnet.com and search for Bullitt Pedal Install. That will bring up a good article on how to get it done.
For the gas pedal, what I did was unbolt the whole pedal assembly from the firewall so I had more room to work it. I more or less busted the stock one off, then installed the Bullitt pedal with my own nut and bolt. For the brake/clutch I've heard "boiling" the pedals help to soften them up enough to slip them on.. I didn't do that though I just worked at it for a while with a little flathead screwdriver, keep at it, it will go on.
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John V 06 Honda Accord SE- Daily Driver 83 Jeep Cherokee W/T- Off Road Toy 02 Mineral Gray V6 Vert- Girlfriends No more: 03 GT- The Problem Child |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,406
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I slip them on except for one of them which I think was gas. I unbolted it and knocked the pressure pin off and tapped it back in.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: El Paso, TX/FOB Marez, Iraq
Posts: 173
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I used some silicon spray and a flat head to get the pedals on.. the gas pedal I took off and knock out the pin and put on the bullit it was a PITA!!!!!!!!!
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2004 Mach 1 Black 5 Speed, K&N FIPK, MGW Shifter Flowmasters, 18" Black Chrome rims, H&R SS Spring MM Casters, Mach Catted H-Pipe, 4:10 gears 1998 Cobra Black Flowmasters catback, MGW shifter, JLT RAI http://sbrooks.gotstang.com |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: GERMANLAND
Posts: 2,385
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use a little patience and get something that hooks and slip it behind the pedal and it should slip on all the way. the gas pedal i forgot but i think you disconnect the cable yeah pretty much forgot that part. i remeber i took the whole gas pedal out my car and swapped the pedals on my work bench "ground"
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#6 (permalink) |
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Traitor...lol
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 7,929
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Yea, the gas pedal is the worst. I learned by breaking a brand new 17 dollar pedal because I got pissed off. Oh well, live and learn . The trick to the others is also patience. Dawn dish detergent helped a little as well, but it really just takes lots of profanity and patience. Good luck man, I still havent taken the time to get a new gas pedal to match the others...
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
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whoo wee, good thing my 04 came stock with these pedals..
-Mike:icon_thum
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04 Mustang Gt Nitrous Express Wet Plate kit @150,UPR intake, BBK 75mmT/b, BBK Plenum, BBK Longtubes, VRS X , Magnaflow mufflers, 3.73 gears, SVT Focus fuel pump, Diablosport programmer, UPR Tubular K member w/ Eibach coilovers 14" 150lb springs (Front), Moroso trick drag springs (Rear), UPR Camber plates, stage III Competition clutch, Moser 31 Spline axles, Auburn Differential, subframe connectors. Lakewood shocks/struts and ported heads and stg III cam awaiting install.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 13
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yeah patience is defiently the key. But I swear that I must have spent a good hour and a half on it and the only pedal that I got on all the way was the dead pedal. Its just such a tight space under there. I must have stabbed myself with a screwdriver 12 times. Thanks for the advice. I'll probably cool off another day and give it another try.
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2000 Mustang GT 5 Speed. Steeda timing adjuster, Cold-Air Intake, 75mm throttle body with C&L intake plenum, underdrive pullies, short throw shifter, aluminum drive shaft, 4.10 gears, Pro chamber exhaust no cats (who needs em) :glasses2: |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Hudson, FL
Posts: 4
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Don't disconnect the pedal assembly, because then you have a whole new PITA when it comes to reconnecting that. There's a much easier way.
Take a deep socket (don't remember off hand exactly what I used but it's not critical). Wedge it between the accellerator pedal arm and the center hump. This will hold the pedal arm firmly in place while you tap out the pressure pin. Have the socket well pointing out so that as the pin gets tapped out it will fall into the socket. That also gives a natural sort of "cup" that the head of the pin will stay contained in as you tap it out. Use a steel ball-peen hammer to knock out the pin. The trick isn't to hit it out with big, heavy hits, but with sharp hits. So you don't need a big hammer to do this. Metal on metal contact is important to knock out that pin. I used the same method for installing the new one, only inserting it in the opposite direction so I could simply tap it in. I don't count on ever taking it out so I'm not worrying about that.
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Eschew obfuscation |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Simi Valley, Ca
Posts: 717
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Quote:
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John V 06 Honda Accord SE- Daily Driver 83 Jeep Cherokee W/T- Off Road Toy 02 Mineral Gray V6 Vert- Girlfriends No more: 03 GT- The Problem Child |
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