bored and wondering
 

how much would it cost to get a GT to make high 11's/low 12's on the 1/4th?? as in how much in mods roughly?

well your going to need to super charge it oviously along with some other mods or u can turbo it you will need one or the other or else it will not happen

i figured that, but whats the difference between turbo and super? is there a thread i can just read? i feel like a dumbass not knowing...lol

Correct me if I'm wrong but a Turbo uses the air from your exhaust to spoil up and the higher the rpm the faster the exhaust comes out so the faster the turbo spoils up. A supercharger is driven by pullies off the motor and is always working unlike a turbo which has to wait for high exhaust pressure to spoil up.

I could very well be wrong seeing as how I'm still new to the car scene. I'm getting there though...

sounds right to me tho i dont kno wut either do, lol...so what would be better on the engine? and cheaper...lol

a turbo is too ****ing expensive for our cars, and you have to replace all the internals and **** with a turbo. just get a stage 1 vortech supercharger.

"The 2000-2004 Mustang GT comes from the factory with an impressive 260 horsepower and 302 ft/lbs of torque. A Vortech supercharging system can safely increase this to 364 horsepower and 371 ft/lbs of torque."

im doing that, intake, and exhaust.

Alot of Mustangs go Twin Turbo if they go Turbo at all but Superchargers are by far the cheapest route if you ask me. You can get a Vortech S-trim mongoose kit for around 4000 and that will put around 400 to the wheels. Any higher and you will need a new engine to handle the power or forged internals. Aslo MPH just came out with a sincle turbo kit and that puts about 825hp the wheel while the twin turbo kit puts about 900hp to the wheel I think.

well damn...lol i would want the MOST HP possible without having to do engine work n stuff...

((off subject but my dad comes up to me telling me to bug MAG 16inch rims for 440bucks, im like, wow dad, can i just get 17inch chrome --just somthing to make my car look alittle better-- he says no cause "we" dont want chrome??? wtf))

Ok, here is how it all works. Turbo vs. Supercharger

Turbos-work off of exhaust gases already given off by the motor. This gas goes through a manifold that spins the compressor wheel (the turbo) and forces tons of air into the motor. No, you dont have to have a built motor to get a turbo, or twin turbos, as long as you keep the boost low. The most important thing for both is that you have a tune that will help your engine survive, and whenever adding a power adder of any sort, you should get the car on a dyno and at least check the a/f ratio. The upsides of turbos are the great power they make all over the powerband. They can go from mild street car to wicked, 10 second race car in the turn of a dial.

Now Superchargers, they utilize a belt driven by the crank pulley to make the boost. There are a couple types, centrifugal, roots, and twin screw. Centrifugal are the most common, such as Vortech, Paxton, Procharger, etc. They are RPM dependant on building boost. This means, the higher you rev, the more boost they make. This makes them a great choice for a track driven car, because you spend you time in the upper RPM all the time. Now, the second most popular are the roots/twin screw. They are different, but use the same basic concept to make the power. The power is immediate, and the torque is brutal. This is the desired blower for those that want their power immediately, and dont want to wait for something to "spool" up like a centi. blower or a turbo. The only problem, is that these can hinder traction, but you get that problem with any power adder.

To pick the one you want, you have to look at a couple things. First of all, you dont need any of the above to get in the 11's or 12's. There are GT's out there with nothing but bolt ons and suspension work in the deep 12's. Now, the easiest, hands down way to have a badass track car, is Nitrous Oxide. Do NOT count nitrous out of the game, just because of the things a certain movie says, or the fact that everyone things nitrous is somehow harder than other power adders. If not properly tuned and taken care of, you can kill an engine with ANY power adder. Next, the cheapest option would be a centri. blower such as a Vortech or Paxton. Kits usually run about 4k all said and done. Yes, you can get them cheaper, but we'll use that as a nice round number. The next most expensive are the Twin Screw type blowers, such as the ones made by Kenne Bell. These blowers typically run about 5k bucks from KB directly. Now, turbos, yes, they are expensive, but that is for a reason. Turbos will soon be the way, and the only way to go. They are just THAT good. A lot of the kits out right now suck for one reason or another, but some have had great luck with the HP turbo kits.

Power adders depend on personal needs, wants, and ability to afford. I must tell you though, that nothing is garunteed to be safe, nothing. If you have a supercharger, nitrous, or a turbo, there is always a possibility of blowing your engine. Therefore, it isnt a bad idea to once you get your supercharger, start saving money just in case something goes terribly wrong, because it does happen. If you want to do it right, you do the block first, then supercharge it, but if you cant wait to have the added power, with the right tune, you will be fine. Think about the options, do more homework (as I havent even SCRATCHED the surface) and realize that the initial cost i have listed, are just the tips of the iceburg. Ask ANY mustang owner with a poweradder, and they will all tell you they have a grocery list of things that still need to be done, replaced, or covered. Its not a short task, and yes, you can do it without all of the little stuff, but you are a mustang owner, and we all have the same sickness for power, so expect to become addicted to more of it. Just my 2 cents, I hope Ive helped. Do your research, and do it right the FIRST time.

well thx for all the info, lol...(idk if id ever have the cash to get a tubro or super tho)

wut kinda times in the 1/4th would a gt get with just new exhaust,gears and tuner? any ideas at all?

Mid 13's, maybe lower 13's. You better be able to drive and hook it though...

well i dont got my gt...yet, but those were gonna be the first mods i wanted to do...

sad thing is i still gotta learn to drive stick...i dont wanna get a gt auto...but yea idk anything about racing or drag racing so id prolly get like 15's with gt and those 3 mods...lol

It takes time but you will learn. I still suck :rolleyes:

lol...i just want a nice, clean looking ride, with some kick ;)

Dont worry, we all started somewhere.

Nothing wrong with a auto if you build it right....I'm running 13.8 and I havent put a 3000 stall or shift kit or even a tranny cooler yet...though I need too....Consistancy is basically what i'm getting at and I drive a lot in stop and go traffic

where i live, i guess there is alot of stop n go and alot of lights...but if u drive an auto where i live, people just laugh...

Yes, until you lift the front tires and put a buslength on them...:D That would be more incentive for me.

I would say that you would need to spend about $8,000 - $10,000 to do it right. That means, reliable power and meeting all safety requirements.

Suspension Mods - $1200
Exhaust Mods - $1500
Blower and Tune - $5000
Gears and Rear-end - $1700
Tires and Rims - $1000
Roll cage etc... - $1000


See, it adds up fast.

Now, you could pull this off with nothing but slicks, a 150 shot, suspension mods, and some weight reduction and wait for the rear end to bust.

and this small bill would get 12's?

Nitrous is the affordable way to get there quickly.

You will want a dynotune with any power adder

is there anyway to find a locate place to dyno my car? (for future reference)

or do i just google it and see what i find?

http://superchips.idealerquik.com/custinfo.asp

should be able to find the closest dealer, and any dyno's in your area.

thx man :)

:: i filled out info but no dealers came up, only see like ads for diff car tuners...no locations ::

That small bill would prolly get you 11's if you had the right suspension and drove your car like you hated it.

THey wont be laughing if when I let my tires spin at 45 mph and put 7-8 car lengths on their a$$es. Ain't so funny meow is it. In all seriousness. I blow doors off anyone who says a auto isn't as good as a manual. At least I can lay down the same time over and over and not have excuse as I missed a shift like a idiot.

Exactly, dont listen to them about driving an auto. Just ask them why they lost when you roll past them...

You can get 12's for a lot less, but he asked about high 11's or low 12's.