http://jalopnik.com/5604345/how-one-...nted-the-wheel

Camber built into the tire. Now if you run -2deg camber in front you don't have to deal with increased tire wear on the edges. Add this to a proper aftermarket suspension and you have a game changer for street cars. 1.0g handling isn't something to only dream of anymore.

 

my dad was telling me about this yesterday. Seems very legit.

 

I don't see how it would really help that much.

For one, if you bought some tires say at a -2 deg camber, and went to the track and they didn't work then you'd be fucked lol. Granted you could keep testing until you found out whats best, but still it'll never take off in my opinion.

Good idea, but its not enough to make it go anywhere in my opinion.

 

Maybe to the everyday driver.

I would like to see what the NASA/SCCA weekend warriors have to say about these tires when they put them to the test on a road course marked off by cones at your local mall parking lot. I think that these camber tires will have lots of appeal and are geared toward that crowd (NASA/SCCA) of enthusiasts. I drive my Mazda with autocross spirited tires for daily driving duty, Dunlop Direzza Z1 star specs. I have 14k miles on them and the tread is about even with the tread blocks but the joy these tires have given me on my urban assaults over the past year made them worth every penny. If I could maximize the negative camber and gain some negative camber just by buying tires will only improve my cars handling.

 

very cool and interesting.

 

I do autox on the weekends, or at least once so far anyway. lol I guess I should do more than one. But yeah I would LOVE these tires being my stang is so low I cant get proper chamber even with CC plates.

 

Lowering springs result in more negative camber. I don't have aftermarket CC plates on my car and with UPR Pro kit I have -1.4* and -1.8* of camber IIRC. If you were to use this guys tires it would result in WAY too much negative camber if you're already having problems getting into spec.

I am by no means a suspension guru or chasis designer but I just don't see how this would make much of an impact. Unless changing the height of the inner sidewall reduces/eliminates the tire roll during cornering the tire is still going to shift off the contact patch during a sharp turn. It still seems like the best solution for high performance is to use a stiffer and shorter sidewall and adjust the camber for the particular style of driving you are doing.

 

if you can't get the tires straight up then the plates are installed wrong or you have them in negative orientation. Swap them side to side and you should see it get dramatically better if they're installed in negative or dramatically worse if they're installed poorly and in positive orientation.

 

The tires won't add to the camber. They'll ride it. The contact patch however will be adjusted by camber built into the tire to be more flat with the ground. So if the tire has -2deg in it then you can run -2deg camber and have no bias on the tire wear from a straight up setting. If you have -4deg like I've seen in some pure race cars then you'll only be seeing the effects on treadwear of -2deg.

Other sports with positive camber settings will also be able to use them, just on the other side.

 

So it's like anti-camber? Because the way I saw it was that you had the car set at neutral camber (perfect 0) and the tires added -2deg of camber....hence why the wheels are tilted, yet the tire is flat on the ground...maybe i'm just confused.

I'm not a suspension guru either, but it seems like it just puts more weight on the inner sidewall.

 

no... it's not anti camber and the tires will not affect the camber setting at the hub. ALL IT'S DOING is putting some correction on the orientation of the contact patch. If you run 0deg at the hub with these tires your tires would not be in complete contact with the road and would wear like you had +2 (outside edge wear). The ground should be considered to be always horizontally level relative to the hub. It's the inside sidewall height being shorter on the tire that allows the contact patch to act like the tire is straight up even though it's actually a couple degrees out of vertical.