I am going to have to change the brake pads on my Mustang pretty soon. I was hoping to do it myself to save a little bit of coin, but I was wondering how easy it is to do on a 2002 Ford Mustang.

How easy would it be for someone who has never changed a brake pad before to do this job?

Should I just eat the extra few bucks it will take my mechanic to change my brake pads?

 

Its a very simple and easy job to do but if you have never done it before..... I would have some concerns. Is there anyone you know that could watch you as you do it to make sure you got it right, or maybe you could watch your mechanic.....?

Brakes are too important to not be right!

 

When I did mine last time, I had a friend of mine help me along too in this same scenario as you have mentioned above, The best thing to do is do the rent-a-tool from a local AutoZone or Advance auto for doing this, helps with compressing the brakes in the rear especially since they are the worst of the set to change.

 

There not too bad. If you do it make sure you put the pads on the correct sides of the rotor. The pads have two different positions of the rivets that hold the braking compound to the backing plates. If you install them backwards the rivet can crack the caliper pistons. Make sure the rotors have a smooth surface or they have to be refinished by a brake shop or replaced all together. Here are some guides you can look at to see if you are comfortable with the job. http://www.americanmuscle.com/hawk-h...6-install.html http://www.americanmuscle.com/hawk-b...6-install.html The brake tool from a local parts store is inexpensive and makes the job easier too. If you have any ?s just let me know.

Here is what I mean about the rivets. The pads with the rivets more toward the center go AWAY from the pistons.

 

get someone who has done it on a mustang or find a nice write-up. i have changed brake pads on tons of vehicles but never my mustang yet. my friend across the street broke a c-clamp trying to compress his before he figured out u needed a special tool so when i get around to mine i am definately going to make sure he is around

 

The SN95 / New Edge Mustang is one of the easiest cars I have ever changed brake pads on. The hardest part was getting the little quick nuts off the studs to remove the rotors. If you have 2 people the job is easy and doesn't require much in the way of special equipment besides a glass jar and some tubing (and a torque wrench). For the price of getting the brakes done, you can replace the pads and the rotors. If your old ones are good, you can keep them around and get them machined before your next brake job, so you can do the whole job in an hour or so. In broad terms, you will need to (for front brakes - the rears will probably last about 150000 - 200000 miles under normal driving):

.
1. Raise the front of the car and secure with jackstands under the front subframe rails (look for the reinforced section toward the front, or you will dent your frame rails).
2. Remove the front wheels
(one side at a time)
3. attach one end the tubing to the bleed valve on the caliper and submerge the other end in the jar, filled part of the way with clean brake fluid (enough to cover the end of the tubing).
3. Remove the caliper bolts (2 each) from behind the rotor / spindle.
4. Loosen the bleed valve a turn or two and carefully pull the caliper up off of the rotor (may take a little coaxing, but shouldn't take too much). You will get a little residual air in the line when you do this. You may want to take a picture of the caliper / pads with your cell phone for reference in reassembling.
5. Close the bleed valve and place the caliper off to the side, leaving slack in the brake line (an empty milk crate or something similar comes in handy here).
6. Here you have a choice: remove the rotor and repeat 2 - 5 for the other side, then take the rotors to a local parts store to have them machined, or, if you bought new rotors, just finish the one side before moving to the other. On my car, the rotor was held on by flat quick nuts - you can use a small screwdriver to turn and back the nuts off by the little tabs.
7. Replace the rotor and quick nuts.
8. Replace the (new) pads and clips into the caliper in their original positions. You may want to place a dab of anti-squeal grease on the backs of the pads. You will need to take care in holding the caliper to avoid having the pads fall out / out of position.
9. Slide the caliper back over the rotor with the pads on either side. If there isn't enough of a gap between the pads, you can loosen the bleed valve (with the tubing / jar attached) to allow the piston to open up a little.
10. Replace and snug the caliper bolts (service manual says 23 lbs-ft).
11. Have your assistant sit in the driver's seat (make sure the rear wheels are chocked / parking brake on). Have your assistant apply pressure to the brake pedal. Loosen the bleed valve and watch for bubbles / dirty fluid going into the jar. Have your assistant let you know when the brake is to the floor. Tighten the bleed valve and then have your assistant let up on the pedal. Repeat this process until you see no more bubbles in the jar and repeat a few more times for good measure. Periodically check the brake fluid level and top off with fresh fluid. Try to avoid sucking air back up into the lines by making sure the tube end stays covered in fresh fluid and by tightening the bleed screw before letting pressure off the system / releasing the brake.
11. Repeat the above process for the opposite side.
12. Test the brake pedal for firm feel (shouldn't feel spongy), lower the car and cautiously test the brake s at low speed for firm pedal feel, listening / feeling for any unusual noise or vibration or pulling to one side or another.

 

BRAKE not BREAK pads... perhaps if you cant spell it you shouldnt be doing it.

 

LOL. FML.

I am usually the one harassing people over stuff like that.

 

LMAO, I know you are, and because of that I felt it a special treat to call you out on it.

 

you get them changed? you were doing front or back? i did my rears for the first time this weekend. u have to buy a little cube like adapter tool to turn the caliper piston. it was like 12$. make sure u have play on your guide bolts/slide bolts. i thought my caliper was bad but it ended up being a stuck guide bolt( i guess that is what they are called). i bought a 8$ hardware kit from orielley that came with new clips, bolts, and rubber guide bolt covers. bought some brake grease too and greased the four guide/slide bolts so they wouldn't stick again. it ate my rotor up because the stuck guide bolt made my caliper sit uneven.

 

Yeah I had my mechanic change them. Did the fronts and he only charged me $20 so I figured I would save myself the time.

 

did my brakes and new rotors the other day, If I can do it ANYBODY can do it, it really is so simple, get you a haynes manuel for ur car, it helps alot, and u can save a butt load of money by doing it ur self.