Remachining my rotors
#2
07-05-2007, 08:09 PM
I've had rotors turned in the past. Some of them can be turned and some cannot. Basically it all depends on how much meat there is on it and how bad the warp is. Not sure about a mustang rotor but some are basically throw aways if they get warped. I had a 94 cougar that was terrible about warping rotors.
#5
07-06-2007, 07:58 AM
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New York(Long Island)
Posts: 100
I have to also get my exhaust rattle checked out as well which will probably be another 100$.
#6
07-06-2007, 08:18 AM
dont pay someone to take your rotors off and turn them. If you paid someone to take them off and saw how easy it was you would shoot yourself in the face. its pretty easy to do. plus turning rotors is cheap, by me its only $10 per rotor at the local parts store.
1. jack up the car, both wheels, you should always get rotors done in pairs.
2. take off wheel.
3. remove caliper, you will need a socket and a wrench. the socket size should be 12mm. as far as the wrench size i forget at the moment. on the back side of the caliber you will see two bolts with the heads facing towards the engine. put the socket on the bolt head. now just on the other side of the calibers "ear" as i call is the sleeve the bolt goes into. it has two flat sides, this where the wrench comes in, use it make sure it doesn't spin as you loosen the bolt. ....remove bolts.
4. slide caliper off, while you are doing this you might as well replace your brakes. if you choose to change the pads you will need a C-clamp to compress the pistons in. make sure the cap to you master cylinder is off when you do this. take an old pad place it on the pistons. put the C-clamp on the pad and the back of the caliper and compress as far as it will go. (these steps can wait until you have your turned rotors and new pads)
5. remove rotor, if it the OEM rotor and it has never been taken off it will have one or two keeper tabs around the lugs. simply use a flat head screw driver and pop them off. pull off rotor, now it may be a little stuck, take piece of wood and a hammer, place the wood on the back side and hit it with the hammer. this will prevent any damage to the rotor.
6. get them turned, or get new ones (i recommend new pads since you already have them apart). and re-install, just remember the stuff i wrote in step 4 when putting it back together.
one more thing, you need a second car on had while you do this or buy everything new before you start.
have fun
1. jack up the car, both wheels, you should always get rotors done in pairs.
2. take off wheel.
3. remove caliper, you will need a socket and a wrench. the socket size should be 12mm. as far as the wrench size i forget at the moment. on the back side of the caliber you will see two bolts with the heads facing towards the engine. put the socket on the bolt head. now just on the other side of the calibers "ear" as i call is the sleeve the bolt goes into. it has two flat sides, this where the wrench comes in, use it make sure it doesn't spin as you loosen the bolt. ....remove bolts.
4. slide caliper off, while you are doing this you might as well replace your brakes. if you choose to change the pads you will need a C-clamp to compress the pistons in. make sure the cap to you master cylinder is off when you do this. take an old pad place it on the pistons. put the C-clamp on the pad and the back of the caliper and compress as far as it will go. (these steps can wait until you have your turned rotors and new pads)
5. remove rotor, if it the OEM rotor and it has never been taken off it will have one or two keeper tabs around the lugs. simply use a flat head screw driver and pop them off. pull off rotor, now it may be a little stuck, take piece of wood and a hammer, place the wood on the back side and hit it with the hammer. this will prevent any damage to the rotor.
6. get them turned, or get new ones (i recommend new pads since you already have them apart). and re-install, just remember the stuff i wrote in step 4 when putting it back together.
one more thing, you need a second car on had while you do this or buy everything new before you start.
have fun
#7
07-06-2007, 09:16 AM
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New York(Long Island)
Posts: 100
dont pay someone to take your rotors off and turn them. If you paid someone to take them off and saw how easy it was you would shoot yourself in the face. its pretty easy to do. plus turning rotors is cheap, by me its only $10 per rotor at the local parts store.
1. jack up the car, both wheels, you should always get rotors done in pairs.
2. take off wheel.
3. remove caliper, you will need a socket and a wrench. the socket size should be 12mm. as far as the wrench size i forget at the moment. on the back side of the caliber you will see two bolts with the heads facing towards the engine. put the socket on the bolt head. now just on the other side of the calibers "ear" as i call is the sleeve the bolt goes into. it has two flat sides, this where the wrench comes in, use it make sure it doesn't spin as you loosen the bolt. ....remove bolts.
4. slide caliper off, while you are doing this you might as well replace your brakes. if you choose to change the pads you will need a C-clamp to compress the pistons in. make sure the cap to you master cylinder is off when you do this. take an old pad place it on the pistons. put the C-clamp on the pad and the back of the caliper and compress as far as it will go. (these steps can wait until you have your turned rotors and new pads)
5. remove rotor, if it the OEM rotor and it has never been taken off it will have one or two keeper tabs around the lugs. simply use a flat head screw driver and pop them off. pull off rotor, now it may be a little stuck, take piece of wood and a hammer, place the wood on the back side and hit it with the hammer. this will prevent any damage to the rotor.
6. get them turned, or get new ones (i recommend new pads since you already have them apart). and re-install, just remember the stuff i wrote in step 4 when putting it back together.
one more thing, you need a second car on had while you do this or buy everything new before you start.
have fun
1. jack up the car, both wheels, you should always get rotors done in pairs.
2. take off wheel.
3. remove caliper, you will need a socket and a wrench. the socket size should be 12mm. as far as the wrench size i forget at the moment. on the back side of the caliber you will see two bolts with the heads facing towards the engine. put the socket on the bolt head. now just on the other side of the calibers "ear" as i call is the sleeve the bolt goes into. it has two flat sides, this where the wrench comes in, use it make sure it doesn't spin as you loosen the bolt. ....remove bolts.
4. slide caliper off, while you are doing this you might as well replace your brakes. if you choose to change the pads you will need a C-clamp to compress the pistons in. make sure the cap to you master cylinder is off when you do this. take an old pad place it on the pistons. put the C-clamp on the pad and the back of the caliper and compress as far as it will go. (these steps can wait until you have your turned rotors and new pads)
5. remove rotor, if it the OEM rotor and it has never been taken off it will have one or two keeper tabs around the lugs. simply use a flat head screw driver and pop them off. pull off rotor, now it may be a little stuck, take piece of wood and a hammer, place the wood on the back side and hit it with the hammer. this will prevent any damage to the rotor.
6. get them turned, or get new ones (i recommend new pads since you already have them apart). and re-install, just remember the stuff i wrote in step 4 when putting it back together.
one more thing, you need a second car on had while you do this or buy everything new before you start.
have fun
#8
07-06-2007, 09:30 AM
if you dont want to do a cobra upgrade or anything, then just get stock ones.
#9
07-06-2007, 09:47 AM
On my 01 I've never had to use a C-Clamp to put in new pads on the front - EVER. My 95 on the rear I had to have that stupid tool to twist in the calipers though.
Contrary to popular beliefe Cobra != God and Cobra != the best.
If you choose to upgrade you can still upgrade to a nice pad like a hawk and gain great stopping power while on the stock rotors. The 13" upgrade would be nice but its not the end all to solutions. I hate people that assume because it says COBRA on it that its the best.
Rant Off
Contrary to popular beliefe Cobra != God and Cobra != the best.
If you choose to upgrade you can still upgrade to a nice pad like a hawk and gain great stopping power while on the stock rotors. The 13" upgrade would be nice but its not the end all to solutions. I hate people that assume because it says COBRA on it that its the best.
Rant Off
#11
07-06-2007, 01:28 PM
dont get drilled, there is a real possibility of the crushing. most people dont think this but, normal everyday driving is considered severe driving. stop and go, short tips, etc all that is severe driving and drilled rotors are not up to that challenge for any extended period of time. plus, and i know this from personal experience, most shops will not turn drilled rotors. the risk of the bit catching one of the holes and breaking the bit(which is $25 per bit, and there are two per lathe) or damaging the rotor is too great and not worth the risk of trying.
#12
07-06-2007, 01:30 PM
On my 01 I've never had to use a C-Clamp to put in new pads on the front - EVER. My 95 on the rear I had to have that stupid tool to twist in the calipers though.
Contrary to popular beliefe Cobra != God and Cobra != the best.
If you choose to upgrade you can still upgrade to a nice pad like a hawk and gain great stopping power while on the stock rotors. The 13" upgrade would be nice but its not the end all to solutions. I hate people that assume because it says COBRA on it that its the best.
Rant Off
Contrary to popular beliefe Cobra != God and Cobra != the best.
If you choose to upgrade you can still upgrade to a nice pad like a hawk and gain great stopping power while on the stock rotors. The 13" upgrade would be nice but its not the end all to solutions. I hate people that assume because it says COBRA on it that its the best.
Rant Off
its a tool to make it easier, plus with a dual piston setup in ensures the pistons go down at the same rate and stop at approx equal heights, this helps when the pads are in the "seating" process.
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